Amongst the other things that happened on Friday night, there was a first encounter with Tony, – The Duke’s Neighbour. Curry was mentioned, Edinburgh Curry. Who mentioned the – E – word? Admitting that my preference is for Punjabi Cuisine, means that I favour Glasgow and Bradford above all. As a consequence, the Bangladeshi dominance in Scotland’s second largest city, makes Edinburgh less attractive to this Curry Lover. Lazeez Tandoori has been on the radar for some three years , one of Edinburgh’s few Punjabi outlets.
Tanjore (6-8 Clerk St, Edinburgh EH8 9HX) was mentioned by Tony, a South Indian Restaurant, these are not prolific in Scotland. On the infamous No. 2 Bus home I studied the website for Tanjore. There was a Fish Curry, a South Indian Fish Curry. As the Curryspondents know, the Indian Mango in München has set the standard, their Fisch Chettinad being one of life’s greatest pleasures.
Marg had declared herself to be free of hockey commitments on Sunday, but how to get her to Edinburgh? I know!
In the early afternoon, Marg and Hector headed east, negotiating the mess that is currently the M8. All would have been well if a truck had not broken down on the slip road which was part of a diversion. Roslin was the destination, Rosslyn Chapel being on our list of places to visit ever since we saw a certain movie based on a certain book. We arrived at 15.00, just in time for the last lecture of the day. Hector-the- Secular visiting and entering a Chapel? Curry-Heute.
The Guide was excellent, this Fifteenth Century partial construction fully explained. Did Scottish Explorers really set foot in the Americas before Columbus? The musical notes carved into stone, a – Code – of their own. Then the acceptance that visitors to Rosslyn have quadrupled since the book and the movie, financing the restoration and the construction of the visitor’s centre. No photos permitted inside, why?
A Fruit Scone cannot be resisted, not – my only pleasure – but a sporadic one. Eating this after 16.00 meant we had to let our snack digest before dining.
We’re only ten minutes from Musselburgh – I advised the Dear Lady.
It came to pass that Marg and Hector were at the Staggs for an aperitif. Others must suffer.
I took the Opperchancity to phone Tanjore. Having seen the size of the premises and the layout on their website, there was no point risking a queue. A table for two at 18.30, please. Who knows what was actually written down for the name? Hector– might have been easier.
Clerk Street is one of only three streets in Edinburgh I can navigate my way to, the Queen’s Hall. We managed to park for free across from Tanjore. The Waitress remembered the phone call, but had no decipherable name for the booking. We chose a table well inside, three at the door were vacant, three inside, but not for long.
An A3 double sided Menu acted as a table setting. I knew what I was having, now to lead Marg in the right direction.
Lamb Tanjore (£8.95) would have been my choice in any Mainstream Restaurant. Lamb Karaikudi (£8.95) looked so much better – Chettinad Spices – yes please. Both Dishes had Boneless Lamb only, one cannot have everything. Marg spotted Tanjore, but then changed to Karaikudi, finesse.
Chennai Fish Curry (£8.95), study the description, this could be what I have been looking for.
We agreed to share Jeera Rice (£3.50) and a Parotta (£2.95). Two glasses of Sparkling Water completed the Order.
Tanjore is quite an informal venue. They operate a BYOB policy with no corkage fee. Many fellow diners had brought wine, one Chap nipped out and returned with a couple of cans. Seating around forty, the place filled up. Only the two tables adjacent to us at the rear remained unoccupied. Booking should always be considered. It would have been impolite to take interior photos of my fellow diners, next time I’ll come at a quieter time. Lunchtime?
Two Ladies beside us had their Curry, the Masalas did not appear Excessive, my expectations were rising by the minute. Many had gone down the Thali, Dosa, Uthappam route. Tanjore was clearly far from being Mainstream.
Bring it on!
Two very Hot dinner plates were set before us by the Chap who brought the food.
No Karahis here, the Curry was served in oval shaped crockery. Topped with Cream, Cucumber and Tomato, both Dishes looked very inviting. The Chennai Fish and the Lamb Karaikudi had more Masala than would be served in a Chettinad at Indian Mango. However, I have to admit that my earliest Chettinad’s at Indian Mango were much – Wetter – affairs, they have toned it down at my request over the years. Their Fish Chettinad, as served to Hector, is currently as much a Stir Fry as a Curry.
One of the Smallest Bowls of Rice ever seen, for £3.50!!, accompanied. There was hardly enough for one, never mind to share. Any sense of disappointment was momentary, the Paratha arrived. Piping Hot, Layered and Flaky, then some. The Ritual Photos complete, I looked for the Strip I had torn off, Marg had already snaffled it. By the time I took some more it was evident we would not have enough. Another – Parotta – was ordered, hopefully it would come before we were finished.
Marg was already commenting on the Rice. In addition to the Cumin Seeds, Nuts were also present, Excellent. Well not Excellent, the Portion was ridiculous, and this the day after I left Rice at Tuk Tuk. My own Curry-Heute Campaign backfiring? In passing I shall mention Tuk Tuk once more, it was the reading of Tanjore’s Menu which put me in the mood for the distinctive South Indian Flavours, hence my indulgence yesterday with Lamb Kohlapuri.
Chennai Fish Curry
The Chennai had more Fish than Masala, crucial to Hector’s enjoyment. Alternating with Rice and Paratha, I had the Best of Both Worlds. Had the Paratha been larger, I would have declared it my – Best Ever.
The anticipated Smoky Flavour was there, and much more. This Masala made me realise how Simplistic the Kolhapuri was yesterday, this Chennai had a Greater Complexity of Flavours. The Spice and Seasoning were well within acceptable parameters.
Tilapia, as everyone knows, is a Freshwater Fish. Sources suggest it is not the healthiest Fish Option, links to Alzheimer’s even being suggested. Let’s forget that and enjoy. The Masala Fish was the Perfect Complement to this Masala, served with the Skin still on, it held together well. The Paratha was gone, a few grains of Rice left, Marg suggested we halt and wait for the second.
Lamb Karaikudi
Tangy, and lots of flavour – was Marg’s proclamation moments after she started.
I sampled some of the Masala, it was possibly even more Complex than the Flavours in the Chennai. I did not dwell, I couldn’t spoil my own Curry. In the final moments a third of her last piece of Lamb came my way, then the remainder. At the start, Marg had counted six pieces of Meat, again, not a Large Portion, but enough for Marg. Hector has Greater Needs. The Lamb was a Standout, too often the Meat can be something to chew on whilst the Flavours come from the Masala alone. This Lamb was – giving – to the Overall Flavour, it was – Succulent – by all definitions, a term I rarely employ.
The second Paratha arrived, again Piping Hot. The Cooling Curry was revitalised.
Marg suggested I would really enjoy the Lamb Karaikudi when I next come back. Only if I were here for two sittings, no way could I pass up on a Fish Curry which I have to describe as one of the Very Best I have ever been served.
Whilst Hector likes to let the savoury linger, Marg likes to end on a sweet note. Vanilla Ice Cream (£2.25) was ordered. I could see three balls, Marg considered it to be nearer two.
The Bill
£32.55. Tanjore only accept Cash. The Sparkling Water was revealed to be £1.50 a glass.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given to the Waitress who immediately thought I owned a Glasgow Curry House. She is planing a Trip to the erstwhile Curry Capital soon, welcome to Punjabi Cuisine.
A challenge to Curryspondent Neil: when the M8 works are complete, I shall take the Bus through, we should have Lunch here, then see what happens thereafter.
Dr. Stan, March 29th?
Mr. Snax, why have you not been to Tanjore?
Howard, you wouldn’t like it.
I like a fish curry. However, the one time I had tilapia it wasn’t totally to my taste, it being firmer than I would have liked. It was OK though and I might give it another go sometime.
Hector replies:
I have been told by Chefs that they are reticent regarding Fish Curry because the Fish breaks up so easily. Perhaps Tilapia, as we both described it, holds together.