Berlin – Delhi 6 – Ich fragte nach Desi, leider Er war nicht Zu Hause

There are many images posted by the many Curry Outlets in Berlin of their Fayre, the vast majority show the Soupy Curry which Hector tries to avoid. One seeks Meat with Masala, not Masala with Meat. One venue which appeared to match this set criterion is Delhi 6 (Friedrichstraße 237, 10969 Berlin, Deutschland). Located south of Checkpoint Charlie and on the U6 Line, very easy to locate.

In 1982, Hector walked up Friedrichstrasse and crossed over to – East Berlin – for the afternoon. This street is unrecognisable from those historic days, especially the further south one goes. Long gone are the brooding tenements which were rebuilt after 1945, walking on towards towards Hallesches Tor, the atmosphere is so different, a vibrancy which did not exist in bygone days. Delhi 6 is located at the north east corner of Theodor-Wolf Park.

The majority of the Diners were outside. The Waiter gestured towards this seated area as I walked in just after 13.00. I said I would rather sit inside, only one other Diner has chosen this option. The Menu was brought, the Business Lunch was recorded but not read. Today was a Lamb Day, the options were studied. Too much Cream, too much Coconut was my initial thought. The Lamb Saag (€12.90) was considered, however, in Deutschland the tendency is to serve a mass of Creamy Spinach and omit – Masala – as such. Roghan Josh (€12.90) claimed the Lamb would be – slow infused – which was encouraging. Kewra Water, this should add something – Aromatic.

At Delhi 6, Mains come with Basmati Rice and a Salad, this justifies the €12.90. The Menu also says one can ask for meals to be served in the – Desi – style, this was most encouraging, so I did. A Sparkling Water (€1.90) completed the Order.

The Water came quickly, which in the rising Temperature was welcomed. Ah, only a 0.2l Bottle, disappointing, this would have to be eked out. Moments after the Sparkling Water was presented, a Karahi was placed on the table. My reaction to myself was – how can a Curry come this quick? – however, this was the Salad. Fooled me.

The Salad, with Dressing, was a good Palate Cleanser. The Roghan Josh came not that long afterwards.

The Rice was served in a Metal Pot, the size from which I have eaten many a Curry. The Quantity was Generous, without being to Excess. The Curry Pot seemed Massive. The contents were decanted, the Meat was into double figures, the Excess Masala was left in the Pot. As ever there was Capsicum, fortunately only a few pieces both Red and Green. Large pieces of Onion also dominated.

The Blended and Oily Masala was – Red – unnaturally so. If Cream has been added, this was no longer visible, here was another Red Rogan Josh, not the Creamy version served in so many venues currently across Europe. Once it had soaked into the Rice, the Lamb stood out. The Texture of the Meat was such that it was apparent that this had been cooked in a Masala for some time.

I asked for Desi, unfortunately he was not at home

From the start I sensed that something was not right. The Spice Level was approaching the non-existent, ironically, the Seasoning was OK. It was the Flavour, as – One Dimensional – as I have encountered. The Ginger Strips gave the only Diversity. I quickly realised that this – Solitary Flavour – in the Masala was not – Pleasant. The Source? I may never know. There was a slight familiarity, thankfully I have not encountered this often. It is possible the Onions were past their best. An over infusion of Kewra? The taste of Red Food Dye can destroy any Dish.

In what way could this Rogan Josh be considered to be – Desi? In whose – House – would this be served? This was far too – Soupy.  I was considering what was – not – in this Curry when the Waiter stopped by to ask the customary question.

It’s OK – I replied.

This he was not expecting. He came closer.

More spice? He offered.

It’s not just a case of – Spice – I told him, – the Curry has one Flavour, no Herbs…

He offered to change it, more than once. I could not eat another Curry, I was already halfway through this one, I had to persevere. I appreciate the sincerity of the offer.

No sooner had he departed when I spotted – Micro Pieces – of a Herb, obviously not enough to tilt the balance of Flavour. I finished the Meat and as much Rice as I could manage. A fair quantity of Masala was left, for The Hector, this was an Unpleasant Curry.

Another Waiter came to clear the table. He offered me a Drink, Coffee, on the house. I had to decline. Hector cannot drink Coffee except when there is a desire to enforce insomnia. Again, I appreciated the offer.

The Bill

€14.80 (£13.00). On any other day, this would have been a Fair Price.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card was given, the Curry-Heute Website shown, my – Curry Expertise – given Credence.

I told this second Waiter that I had not enjoyed their Roghan Josh. My problem with the Curry was outlined. You should ask your Chef what he is – Not – putting in. I listed – Coriander, Cumin, Cardamom, Cinnamon, Fenugreek.

That was not a Good Curry! – was my closing remark.

If any, or all of my listed Ingredients were present in this Roghan Josh, then their Flavours were being masked by whatever did not sit well on the Hector Palate.

I departed, acknowledging the Waiters, it was not their fault.

It is rare for The Hector to find a Curry to be such, the last time was in Glasgow, my home town. I wonder how Obsession of India are doing? Tomorrow is my last Lunchtime in Berlin. It will be back to Swera which impressed last year.

Later this afternoon at the Stone Brewery, Craig ordered – Jindia Pale Ale. We agreed it was horrible, and guess what? It tasted exactly the same as my Roghan Josh at Delhi 6!

Having registered my thoughts on a certain Social Medium, this reply was received from the management:

With all due respect, we apologize that you didn’t like the food and we would live to serve you again and would feel proud to change your mind. However, just because you are challenging the chef about ingredients, i would like to inform you as a chef (which I am sure you would be knowing being an expert) that talking about Indian kitchen and challenging ingredients in a dish could not be justified by any chef or an expert since being a chef we believe cook is an art and we just follow the principles and play with the spices on public demand, which I believe didn’t match your taste.
In any case we find it a failure at our side and that’s why the manager was asked to ask you the same day if we could change the dish upto your taste, however after customers  denial we couldnt do anything.
In anycase, we are open to your challenge and would love to challenge you too on your knowledge and expertise publicly on a public platform.
Thanks and regards

Saurabh Arya

Hector will be glad to make contact in advance of the next visit to Berlin. Appetite permitting, I could have accepted another Curry, but not this early in the day.

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