It has been a long day, the journey from Jaipur to Bharatpur for Breakfast-Heute #3, and finally the check-in at Agra‘s Gateway Hotel. With no Buffet Dinner provided this evening, thankfully, there was the Opperchancity to experience Restaurant Cuisine. The Silk Route (18-a/7-b, Fatehabad Road, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282001, India) was not our first choice of Restaurant this evening. Marg and Hector stepped off the Main Street down into a small bright, Cafe-style Venue which looked Shiny and Clean, This was Spice Hut just along the road, we didn’t stay.
Spice Hut
*
Having taken our seats at one of eight empty tables, the Menu was issued. Mutton Rogan Josh (Rs 310) was last seen at Gulati Restaurant in New Delhi, it had to be. Marg also went down Memory Lane and chose Butter Chicken Boneless (Rs 390). We agreed to share a Paratha (Rs 60) and a Mattar Pullao (Rs 180).
The Waiter took the order, all was well. Marg asked for Sprite, Hector a Big Bier. The Bier was sent for, not the first time this has happened. Moments later the Waiter was back – No Bier, today is a dry day. Not the end of The World, with luck we would join the rest of The Group later. Then the really Bad News, no Mutton. Today is a – Dry Day – no Mutton no Bier. Goodbye.
I have subsequently looked this up. Alcohol is not sold on certain key dates in the Indian Calendar, today is not one. The cash machines may have been – Dry – but so was my palate.
And so 100m back in the direction of the Gateway Hotel we descended into the depths of The Silk Route. Again the place was empty. Does nobody go out in Agra on a Saturday night?
The Waiter let us choose our table, before doing so, I asked if they had Mutton and Bier. We took our seats.
Handi Gosht (Rs 450), a Classic. Hector first enjoyed this at Glasgow’s New Karahi Palace, why have I not had this for a while? The answer – The Hector Curry! Marg was considering Fish, then Chicken. She found – Murgh Afghani (Rs 450) in a part of the Menu I had not photographed. Afghan Cuisine? This could be better than Indian! Had there been Dum Pukht, It would have been – cancel the Handi!
After the sweaty ordeal to get Cash this evening, Hector was in need of Liquid, the Fresh Lime Soda (Rs 50), again first experienced at Gulati, was quaffed before the 650ml – Super Strong – Kingfisher (Rs 25) was touched. Semi-chilled, drinkable, just, but totally lacking in that Icy Bast which makes Eurofizz-style Lagers work in hot climates. I saw The Waiter leave the Restaurant momentarily and then return with eight more. These were put in a chest freezer beside the Bar, they may still be there.
Vegetable Biryani
Paneer, Peas, Cauliflower and Green Beans were mixed through the Rice. A Meal in itself, but at home we would expect a Masala on the Side. It’s fab – said Marg, said in reply to my question. I can see us sharing this as an Alternative to the standard Vegetable Rice back in Blighty. As ever, there was way more than one person could eat. Just as well, given what follows.
Handi Gosht
The Handi Gosht came in what I recognise as the standard Indian Metal Pot. There was no sign of the – Earthen Pot. Six large pieces of Soft Mutton were decanted from a Classic 1960s Masala. The Seasoning was spot on, the Spice Level – Above Medium – as asked. The Runny Masala worked OK with the Rice. One is coming to terms with the fact that – Traditional Curry – is what is on offer in this part of India, what this Website refers to as – Mainstream. A Karahi Gosht laden with Methi, with Minimal Masala is not going to be located in the short time I have here. With more time, I bet I could find it, as shown this morning, there are Punjabi Restaurants in India.
What I had before me, I could not fault. This was a Very Good – Curry. Why was it called –Handi?
Murgh Afghani
We both had our Visions of Loveliness, we were thinking Very Positive Waves about this Dish, wtf?
Marg immediately challenged The Waiter, was this what she had ordered? The Menu was brought, the page selected, I had still not seen it. You have ordered from the Starters – The Kebab Section. Why would The Hector have looked at this?
It’s not even real Chicken – was Marg’s verdict once she accepted her fate. Chicken Mince, a Chicken Seekh Kebab done more Chunkily? Ahmed, where are you?
The accompanying Mint Sauce did nothing to cheer up Marg. She did what she had to then turned her attention to the Biryani. At least she was impressed by this, however, the Excess Masala from the Handi was too Spicy for her, and so she suffered more. The Salad could not be touched.
The Waiter was keen to know if we were enjoying our Meal initially, then he sort of faded.
The Bill
Rs 1800. (£20.00) Way cheaper than the Hotels.
The Aftermath
Time to brave the Tuk-Tuk Drivers and everyone else after our Business. A Bar? No – said Marg, back to the Gateway Hotel.
Still, no further diners arrived at The Silk Route.
India Trip 2016 – Day 6 – Agra, Uttar Pradesh – via Fatehpur Sikri and Sikandra
Afghans don’t eat murgh ( chicken) in any form whatsoever. Even their seekh kebabs are all beef.
So ‘chicken afghani’: not plausible in our part if the world.
Hector replies:
No Chicken Curry either! The land where one asks for Gosht and the waiter doesn’t ask – Chicken or Lamb…
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