Biryani House (157 Allison St, Govanhill, Glasgow G42 8RY) was spotted from the bus on Monday en route to Shahi Mahal, another addition to the Southside Curry Cafe scene, and an obvious magnet for the Hector.
Biryani, not Curry, though online research did suggest Curry would be available. In keeping with Hector’s ongoing avoidance of another Lamb overdose, a Vegetable Biryani (£6.50) may well have suited. There was no way of knowing what was about to unfold, read on, this was a memorable afternoon.
Entering the otherwise empty premises at 14.30, Ahmed, Mein Host, may have spotted me taking the exterior photo. A one man show, I immediately verified that Biryani House has only been open for three to four months. Glancing up at the board, I was informed that there was no printed menu. Fish Biryani (£8.00) was mooted, however, a list of Curry options was offered.
Fish Curry? – the wish was granted … with some Rice.
Ahmed suggested this could take some ten minutes, I assured him there was no rush. I took the optimum seat at one of the three tables. Biryani House seats twelve. Ahmed disappeared to the rear, yet a grill/oven, microwave and some other sort of table top cooker was in the preparation area front of house.
With somewhat garish plastic table coverings and bare walls, the décor might be described as either rustic, or unfinished. Having returned to the front of house, Ahmed got busy chopping some Coriander. At some point he raised the matter of Spice Level. Above medium – was agreed. That I was willing to have food at this level evidently pleased him, no need to hold back. Flipping between the front and the rear of the premises, Ahmed methodically progressed towards serving my Curry. A half hour had passed when he brought over a plate of Salad, to keep me going.
In Curry-Heute, I have oft referred to Modest Salad, to differentiate from a typical plateful, this was something else.
That would feed a family – I remarked.
The garnish, a slice of Lime, was the only notable stand out feature to what superficially appeared to be a simple Salad of Tomato and Cucumber. OK the Coriander, stirred through was copious. I was not prepared for the next moment – Wow!
Close examination revealed loads of finely sliced Garlic, a brave addition to a Salad. In addition to the distinctive Flavour from the Coriander, there was a sharpness I have only experienced when making Peanut Masala Chat. Had some of the Chat Masala mix been added here?
Later I asked: Lemon Juice and Black Pepper were revealed as the key ingredients.
Despite thoroughly enjoying this entrée, I knew I had to keep some back in case the Curry required some Diversity.
Ahmed brought out the grill pan to show me a tray of Fish. For how many was he cooking?
Rohu – he informed me, from the rivers of his native Bangladesh. Carp – is how we identify this outrageously healthy Fish. It would need twenty minutes to cook. The Rohu, had been cut to create Fish Steaks as Mother used to present Cod in Hector’s formative years. I was warned that there would be bones. In time, he gave a lesson on all the fresh water fish available to him, and the hefty prices charged for some.
I watched the artistry as a plate with three substantial pieces of Rohu was adorned with further Tomato and Cucumber, before a family sized portion of Basmati was placed centrally.
This was for me? Grilled Fish with Rice, not a Biryani, and certainly not Curry. Hector’s Masala Fish Creation at Kabana, denied last week in Manchester, came to mind. I was up for this. The ongoing, but temporary, avoidance of Lamb.
Grilled Fish with Rice
As I adjusted from expectation to reality, my gob had never been so smacked, when I saw the remaining three pieces of Rohu become – Curry. Hector was about to be served – The Works. The Salad was set aside pro tem, where does one begin?
Fish Curry
Three substantial Rohu Steaks, with Spice clearly absorbed, sat in what looked like an Oily Shorva in parts, not quite a Masala in others. Finely chopped Onions and Green Chillies, cut lengthways, were in there too. The Toppings, more fresh Coriander and even more sliced Garlic. The Hector was not going to be popular this evening.
I transferred some of the Rice to the Curry plate, all was set.
A mixture of the Oily Shorva and Rice created the second – Wow! – moment of the day. Those who would have shunned this know not what they miss.
Breaking the firm Fish with a fork, the interior was white. So, minor penetration then.
Fish Curry, Hector’s crowning glory, and so hard to source in the style sought after. I couldn’t believe the Flavours given off by this spiced Rohu. The Fisch Chettinad as formerly served at Indian Mango (München) and subsequently at Dessi Tadka, has set the standard. Today I was clearly tasting something at this level, the third – Wow! -moment.
This is Madras hot – Ahmed felt obliged to inform me. The – heat – was never going to be an issue, this was all about the Flavour. Cue the crispy edges of the Rohu, – my wife would love this – I relayed across the counter.
And so, we chatted as I ate. Time to introduce the Calling Card.
A Fish Curry with an intense Flavour of – Fish – in addition to the Spices. Not too much to expect one would think, experience reveals otherwise. Black Peppercorns and the inevitable Black Cardamom featured in the Masala. The Cardamom was caught in time. The bones, why does The Queen Mother come to mind, great care was taken. Monday’s Bateera at Shahi Mahal proved to be excellent preparation. One bone became wedged in the middle of the top set of gnashers. Toothpick provided, it wouldn’t shift. It took ten minutes to work out I was addressing the wrong gap.
Sucky Bones! The – meat – attached to the spine bone was sooked off, joy.
Debris apart, I cleared the plate, this was the strategy, take the rest home. Ahmed was on board with this. Two meals in effect, how is he going to make a profit if this is what he dishes out? The local MP and his wife were here yesterday, they too were given the full Biryani House treatment.
Originally employed in Whitechapel, Ahmed has been working in Glasgow for some years but did not disclose where. Curry in Whitechapel has featured in these pages regularly over the years, Punjabi Cuisine. Ahmed realises he is surrounded by this different style of cooking here in the Southside, he definitely has something different to offer.
No price had ever been mentioned/agreed, I already had a sum in mind that I would pay, regardless. Oh, and there was a – Cash Only – sign, slightly obscured on the wall.
The Bill
£16.99 A card payment would have been accepted, however, I had my cash looked out, and paid the sum I already had in mind.
The Aftermath
Not content with just packing the Fish & Rice plate, a minor work of art was created, another photo. With the Salad remnants too, the weight of the Takeaway bag was substantial, as was the aroma that would accompany me for the rest of the day.
I’ll be back. Ahmed is keen to show off other delights, and has invited me to contact him in advance. However, remaining true to this Blog, I must establish the efficacy of his Curry menu, that means Lamb.
Back in Glasgow, for a very, very, long time, relatively speaking, time to restore the tour of the Southside Curry Cafes, 2026. After last week’s near excessive Lamb intake in Manchester, there had to be something completely different. Monday is Bateera Day at 
The portion size seemed miserable. More of a snack than a main meal. If one is particularly hungry, order two! It won’t break the bank. The Potato clearly had time to absorb the Oily Shorva, the Aubergine, presumably mushy. If this is your cup of tea, enjoy. The Hector would willingly have this as a Side and maybe have no Rice/Bread.
Marg and Hector had some Middle Eastern Bread 
The exterior 
I asked Zahir if we could pay by card. The wish was granted. 
Today, the Hector had his own 
We 
As I stood at the serving bar, so Rizwan piled on a huge portion of Rice to the plate. 
Having described the wonder that is this Curry as recently as 
With Clove to the fore, the well Seasoned Masala was complemented by the Ginger Cubes, sliced Green Chillies, and the forest of Coriander. The Spice Level was therefore – as you like it. A piece of Cinnamon Bark confirmed the – Desi – credentials. 
Today, I gave everyone the day off. But who knows, comments may arrive later.
Earlier this week, I mentioned the Spiced Onions in the bucket at the display counter. These are they, do try them. 
Once, in any Manchester trip, there is usually an opperchancity to have some serious Curry. 
The red chairs have gone, replaced with white ones, new tables, and more versatile too. Otherwise, nothing much has changed at these humble premises. A massive vat of Oil had something uncertain being cooked, whole Chickens possibly. Worryingly, I spotted the – cash only – sign. Whilst some of us certainly carry real money, what were the chances of all six? I went up to the counter, the young chap assured me that card payment would be accepted. With their pukka digital till, why even pretend?
The timeous four had time to peruse the 
Fish.
At the point of ordering, I was advised that the Karahi would take twenty minutes to prepare. There was little surprise then when the chaps brought the Karahi just us my fellow diners were licking their lips in appreciation of their Starters. There was a quick rearrangement of the plates on the table to accommodate the two large, flat, karahi.
Bullet Chillies sliced lengthwise, a threat of Coriander, strips of Ginger and Tomato, plus slices of Lemon topped the Karahi. The Thick Masala was everything one could hope for, there was but a glint of Oil on the periphery. Full marks for presentation.
Minimal bones, indeed, Johnnie had assumed this was all Boneless Lamb until he found one bone. For the Hector, a similar experience. 
I had taken what I knew I could manage, a serving from each karahi. If eight pieces of Meat is a standard portion, then in effect, I had two portions on my plate. Well judged, there would certainly be enough, and given how quickly some stopped eating, nobody was leaving hungry. 
The Naan were served whole in two baskets. This enabled access for all regardless of seating position. With multiple perforations, as is the Manchester way, they had not risen to their full extent. The edges were also more firm than they could have been otherwise. The offer of more was declined, we had enough Bread on the table. 
A simpler presentation, Ginger Strips, sliced Bullet Chillies but probably more Coriander, here there was more of an oily, Buttery sheen. 
Johnnie: It was – expletive deleted – magnificent!
About twenty a head?– asked Johnnie as we prepared to leave.
The Aftermath
Four nights in Manchester this week, and three closing time visits to 
Another important piece of information was gleaned. Chef Rashid has long gone, no obvious Maestro has replaced him. There was a kid in the kitchen, working alone. 
The number of Wraps purchased by Hector could well be counted on one hand, never taken to them. Compared to the 
Usually, there are two visits to Manchester at the start of the year, but I missed out on tickets for
A 14.00 rendezvous with Dr. Stan at 
Rice and Three (£9.00) is what Hector had in mind for today, however on seeing Kofta (£7.00) on the Board, that was postponed. I did check with Rizwan, Mein Host, that the Kofta was actually – Kofta Anda. The presence of the hard-boiled Egg makes all the difference. This would also allow a Nan (£1.00) for a change, no Rice. Marg, whose bowl of Porridge earlier was even larger than yesterday’s, limited her Order to being another snack. A Vegetable Samosa (£1.50) and Indian Tea (£3.00).
Three Meatballs, and half a hard-boiled Egg were smothered in a blended Masala. The Spices in the Masala brought out the root 
Dissecting the Kofta, the interior was pale, so Chicken Mince was deduced. 
A substantial Samosa served with Salad, Raita and Onions. Rizwan’s bucket of Onions is something to behold. Stored at the counter front of house, visually unappealing perhaps, but oh the taste!
The Keema (£7.00) had more peripheral Oil than one might hope for. A moist interpretation of this fine Dish. The Keema Naan (£5.00), served whole was a meal in itself. 
An interior photo was secured, this is how such a Naan should be, discrete grains of Mince. Clive’s Keema with more Keema is one of his all time favourites. 
Served in a bowl, the Masala in the Karahi Lamb (£7.00) dominates, served with Rice, much of the liquid is immediately absorbed. Two entirely different ways of having this Curry. 
Prof G: Friendly service, great value , combo of Lamb Karahi & Kofta hit the spot, great flavour.
Kofta, Karahi Lamb, Spinach and Potatoes
Smorgasbord or Buffet, perhaps this was the ultimate creation?
Rizwan was advised that tomorrow the plan is that some will be partaking in another style of Curry on Cheetham Hill Road. The likelihood is, some will be back on Thursday. 
The second half of January means the annual trip by The Company to Manchester. The arrival in Manchester corresponds with a visit to 
For Hector, Karahi 
Martin, 
Rizwan had added the Foliage before bringing it over. Copious sliced Green Chillies, cubes of Ginger and fresh Coriander topped the mass of Meat and Masala. Beneath, as much Rice as a Hector could manage. On Day #1 in Manchester, confidence levels are high, whatever is set before me is manageable, the appetite tends to wain as the week progresses and the eating time becomes earlier. 15.30, the ideal time of day to have Curry. 
Gosh! – my immediate reaction. 
The Desi credentials were in place: Cinnamon Bark and whole Black Peppercorns 
Across the table, Martin was having a different experience. Chapattis with Karahi, as the Hector would have anywhere else, but is the Karahi served here not simply Curry? Wholemeal Chapattis, large, served whole, has Martin tried the Naan at 
Served in a bowl, with even more Foliage added, obscuring any Chillies or Ginger. The peripheral Oil stands out, with Rice, this is absorbed. A different eating experience, 
Four Chops, the best value in the country, and by that I mean the UK! Truly cremated, the Carbon adds so much Flavour. Too few places will serve Lamb Chops this well fired, even when specifically asked for. Who knows, Hector may be tempted to savour these later in the week. Marg:
I thoroughly enjoyed the very tender Lamb Chops, with plenty of soft meat and carbon-rich pieces near the bone. It was a meal eaten from the hands, and was exactly how I wanted to eat my Lamb Chops. Perfect.
The Aftermath
S
Nae Meat – these pages will never celebrate those who continuously deny themselves this source of protein. That historically, due to inherent poverty, Meat was not available to the masses, fair dos. Anyway, this is Glasgow,
A table for one – having instructed me to take a seat in the waiting area before disappearing to the rear of the restaurant, he didn’t return. Nor did I sit, 
I wouldn’t be having that then, but Thali was very much in Hector’s mind. Two Curry items on the menu had caught the eye whilst researching: 
Wading through the menu, it took a few minutes to find my meal of choice. A metal jug of water, already on the table, was soon complemented by a metal goblet, brought to the table by the chap who had abandoned me earlier. 
As I waited, I took in my surroundings. Quite a place, I was never here when it was a bar. Indeed, this was the first time I had set foot in any part of the Beresford, possibly Glasgow’s most famous art deco building. 
The family group behind me to my left took their leave. The weans had gone, the atmosphere in the restaurant improved dramatically. 
A large, round Thali tray was presented, with most of the contents obscured by a Poppadom, fork, spoon and what I took to be a Banana Leaf in the poly bag. I took a serviette, opened it, then laid it flat on the table. The Poppadom/Appalam was broken up and arranged on the serviette. Maybe later, probably not. 
Fifteen Pots were arranged around the centre of the tray, a central eating area? The centre featured a Banana, a Fritter/Doughnut and a stalk. The Hector does not eat any Banana which no longer features green skin. Too Sweet, wrong Texture. The stalk I took to be Bamboo, Hector is a Hound, not a Panda. 
As the people behind me departed, so the lady admired my use of the leaf, she hadn’t though of that. She warned me about the Betel Nut, her husband suggested Tamarind as an ingredient of the Special Drink which he described as a palate cleanser. 
Nearest me were two Rice Pots, with a third top left. Why three? Why Stodgy Rice? This was even worse than the Rice served by Hector forty years ago before the microwave guaranteed discrete grains. 
And so to the Curry Pots, or were they? 
Some 
In 2021, there were eight 
As Marg went off to check the facilities, so he 
Given the choice of tables in the otherwise empty restaurant, we chose the corner, window table. 
This has been a common occurrence in visits to 
Both Breads halved and in one basket. Better than quartered, but why not – whole?
No karahi, a ceramic dish, why? Coriander Ginger Strips and sliced Bullet Chillies topped the plateful. The Texture of the Masala revealed the presence of Yoghurt. With the peripheral Oil at an acceptable level, no panic, and no watery residue either. 
This statement is not to be taken lightly. 
Mid meal, I piled everything to one side of the plate to see how much Oil would drain to the other. Acceptable, and so all was stirred, carry on, Hector.
The same 
I studied the Potato, it was not discoloured to any depth, so cannot have been left to sit and absorb Spice, hence Flavour, as in my favoured Curry Cafes. 
She dreams of Kashmiri Tea – was my remark to the waitress when 
At the start of each year, the Hector is faced with the challenge of getting around all the Southside Curry Cafes, both to show my face and update the menu tag, this time to – 2026. 
Original Khyber (69 Kilmarnock Road, Shawlands Glasgow G41 3YR) 
Arriving first, I took a table well inside the cafe/restaurant, and beyond the only two sit-in customers who would leave shortly. Eight years, have either of us changed? 
I had time to study the menu. 
Not Garlic Nan (£2.50) – Bill insisted – the Garlic overwhelms.
We were on the same page, a Plain Nan (£1.49) each would suffice, to start anyway. Curry with Bread v Bread with Curry, to each, our own approach. 
Tap water was the liquid accompaniment. 
A chap behind the counter asked if we wanted two half kilos, or one large. Large of course, and this is the only time the Hector actually enjoys sharing, anything. 
The two Naan were brought in separate baskets, quartered. They must have been huge before cutting. Risen, puffy blistered, Tandoori teardrop-shaped originally, most enjoyable. Next time, whole please. 
A Curry that is almost – grey. Nothing red goes into the making of this marvel. Onions, black pepper, ginger – says the menu. And a lot of skill and patience. I have tried. 
I had taken about a third of what I would eventually eat, to start. The residue emanating from the Meat and Masala was as much juice as Oil. No great Flavour coming from this. Oh. 
I proudly took a photo of the empty karahi, it has been quite some time since I shared-the-kilo with only one fellow diner. I didn’t feel Lambed-out either. 
Being visit #2, no 
