The Rome Trip has started, Howard and Hector are having an afternoon in Brighton en route. After visiting a couple of New Pubs, for me at least, there had to be Curry-Heute. Google Maps took us to Preston Street, a case of deja vu, all over again. The Akash Tandoori was the intended destination, walking down the hill I spotted Bombay – Indian Cuisine which Marg, Lord Clive and Lady Maggie of Crawley had visited with Hector two years ago. There is no Akash Tandoori, instead River Spice (17 Preston St, Brighton and Hove, Brighton BN1 2HN, England ) was selected, a random choice in effect.
The place was empty this Wednesday evening @19.00, so any table was ours. The Modest Menu was provided, every page was photographed subsequently. The range of Dishes was realistic, no endless Tweaks. The Lamb Chop Bhuna (£9.95) put Hector firmly in the mood for Meat, no Vegetable Curry tonight. The price was also attractive, virtually half the price for the same Dish at Shri Bheema’s In Aberdeen. I was nearly there when – Chettinad – was spotted, I would have to ask. One never knows, maybe it will be served in the Classic Shorva-style, hopefully not. Regular Readers know that the Indian Mango in München has set the Standard for this Curry. The Waiter was consulted. Firstly I confirmed that this was a Bangladeshi Establishment. Chettinad is a South Indian Curry. Hector’s preference is Punjabi Cuisine. Here we go.
The Waiter volunteered that the Chettinad (£9.50) was a Dry Curry with a Thick Sauce served Madras Hot. Unbelievable! I did not put these words in his mouth, Masala, surely. Lamb Chettinad it had to be, with Vegetable Pulao (£2.95). I asked for the usual guarantee, this was not a problem.
Howard did what had to be done, he chose the Alternate Dish, again with Vegetable Pulao and a Keema Naan (£2.50)
Water
Sparkling Water for Hector, Still Water for Howard. When the Large Bottles arrived I immediately asked the cost. Twenty years ago Michael was stung for a Large Bottle of Perrier just off Tottenham Court Rd, £7.00 back then was a fortune. £3.95 was within acceptable parameters for the size given, well maybe for the Sparkling. Who buys Still Water, ah, we are in the South of England, Tap Water is terrible.
Behold The Dry Chettinad!
The Curry was as good as the Waiter’s Word. Hector was well impressed, exactly as described, it can be done. One now wonders why this version is such a rarity. Fish was not on the Menu, so I asked if Fish Chettinad was possible. Next time in Brighton I shall give advance warning.
With the Chettinad served spread across the plate, the Vegetable Pulao could only be dumped on top. So much for etiquette. Sweetcorn, Green Beans, Onion, Peas, Carrot Slivers?, Broccoli and Cauliflower, this impressed. The Quantity of Rice, and yes there was Rice in the bowl, was Sensible. All was set, The Waiter watched the photographic ritual.
I should explain why I am doing this.
The Calling Card was handed over. I am an International Curry Writer.
That’s the first time I have ever called myself that – I said to Howard. It is true, I am, check the list of Cities/Countries down the right column.
Time to Eat
Chettinad usually has a Smokey Aroma and Flavour from the South Indian Red Chillies, this interpretation did not. Instead, Curry Leaves were mixed through the Meat plus Large Onion Pieces. The Seasoning was Under, the Spice Level was indeed around – Madras. The Quantity of Lamb was well into double figures, a lot of Meat. The Quality of the Lamb was also remarkable, Tender indeed.
As Curry, the Dish was Sound in terms of what was on the plate, but why did they think it was a Chettinad? The Overall Flavour was not South Indian, what was served was Excellent, had this simply been put down in front of me with the instruction – Eat, I would be raving about it. So, an Excellent Curry, but without the Expected Flavour.
Lamb Chops Bhuna
Again, the Curry was spread across the plate, Howard followed suit with the Rice.
The Seasoning – was Howard’s first remark. The Seasoning was indeed at the preferred end of the Salt Spectrum. Howard, known for his generosity, plonked a Lamb Chop on my plate. The Thick Masala on the Chops was nothing like what I had been served despite the similarity in appearance. Tamarind – was Howard’s next offering. I didn’t think so. Neither of us were sure, and there was a Flavour we have not encountered, something new, always welcome.
Six well-fired Chops made up the Portion, Howard was attacking the Bones with vigour. A big bitter flavour – was Howard’s description. A very odd Curry – his conclusion.
Keema Naan
The Keema Naan was Donner-like inside, had a Favourably Light Texture and was served at a manageable Plate Size. Howard managed most of it, any Larger would have been a waste.
The Bill
£35.75. £7.90 of this was Water.
The Aftermath
Hector left the premises impressed, an Excellent Curry, however, maybe an extra Blast of Flavour was required in the Chettinad. Howard remained Puzzled.
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