Glasgow – The Dhabba – The Merchant City, A Self-fulfilling Prophecy

Hector comes to praise Curry Houses, not to bury them.

Hector (and Marg) first visited The Dhabba (44 Candleriggs, Glasgow, G1 1LE) about a decade ago. The Dhabba had acquired a reputation for – Something Different. We dined on perhaps a quiet Tuesday with only a handful of Diners and a Single Waiter. We amused ourselves by speculating that given the time spent in the Kitchen, The Waiter was preparing the Curry also. The Food was nothing special.

Some years after, and still before the birth of Curry-Heute, we tried again at a weekend. Again, nothing special. Today technically was my Fourth Visit, having been turned away on a Friday afternoon late June this year, I had just missed the Lunchtime session.

As part of the Pairing with Dakhin, specialising in South Indian Cooking, the Venue across the street, was visited the following day. This was an Enjoyable Visit despite my preference for Punjabi Cuisine. On previous visits to The Dhabba, the Palate was not quite honed to the difference between Goa/Kerala and Punjab.   That was then.

“If we’re lucky, this could become the model for 21st century UK curry houses.”

Entering just after 17.00, I was pleased to see a Couple in front of me being greeted so warmly, there were embraces. Hector misses Hassan from Café Salma. A Waiter who was now behind me invited me to sit at any table for two along the window. I chose the far end which appeared not to please the Waiter I shall henceforth refer to as – Sullen. Who is Hector to use this nomenclature? I do smile once the Curry is Tasted, not before.

The Menu arrived in an instant. Dum Pukht took me back to the days of the now closed Khyber, sadly the descriptions did nothing to entice The Hector.  The Lamb List was not unnecessarily excessive, Achari Gosht was in keeping with I had in mind. No Karahi, no mention of….

A Smiling Young Waiter took my Drinks order, a Glass of Sparkling Water, (£1.95). The alternative was the Litre.

The Other Waiter took the Food Order and appeared miffed that my Drink was ordered already.

Achari Gosht: A fiery lamb dish cooked in a hot sauce flavoured with pickle masalas.

I was delighted to note that being present at this time meant Half Price Mains from the a la Carte Menu.

Lacchedar Paratha (£3.50) sounded very close to Wednesday’s Lachha Pratha. Flaky and Layers were once again hoped for. The Aloo Paratha (£3.95) was dismissed. I wonder why.

The Smiling Waiter brought some Broken Poppadoms and Three Dips. Complimentary, as they should be. I sampled little of the Lime Pickle so as not to contaminate the Palate for the imminent Achari.

Whilst I waited I heard the Chomp on Crispy Poppadoms from Two Adjacent Tables. More Tables were filling. What had to be the Raan-E-Changeji: Tender whole baby leg of lamb slow cooked in its own juices with herbs, spices and dark rum. Served on sizzler with the sauce on the side. – passed me, wafting. This looked Wonderful and sounded and smelled just as Good. The Sizzling reference had made me wonder if this was – Echte Curry. The Leg of Lamb looked Substantial, there was a Minimal Masala Covering, maybe a – Hector Curry – after all. Next time, and come early. Paying Half of the regular £17.50 is more attractive.

The Young Smiling Waiter brought the Achari Gosht and the Lacchedar Paratha. He realised I had no plate, The Sullen Waiter stepped in.

What is this that stands before me?

The Paratha was Halved, better than Quartered, but still – why? It was not as Flaky as is the Hector Standard. Too Doughy. Worth the price? No, Disappointing.

The Curry Pot was most confusing. Here lay a Yellow-ish, Creamy Masala.

Creamy Achari?

“Staff at The Dhabba in Candleriggs boast that their North Indian Cuisine will be like nothing you have ever tasted”

So the Website says.

They are right.

A different experience is what Hector hoped for. This would be One.

A Dark Red Chilli which Hector associates with South Indian Cooking covered the Dish. This was removed, why was it there? The Lamb was Plentiful, at least a Dozen Pieces of Lamb which required Chewing, not so Soft they were Pulp. Quality Lamb was the conclusion.

The Masala was Something Else

Shorba no, Korma-esque, yes. There was no Taste of Pickle. Speculation, if there was Pickle, what was it? Red Speckles in the Masala suggested Something had been added, but what? There was a Decent Kick. The Seasoning was Ridiculous. Now Regular Readers know that Hector appreciates Well-seasoned Curry. The Erlangen Scale has been applied as necessary. Some mouthfuls were – Unpleasant. The Fresh Ginger Strips added occasional diversity to this Creamy Onslaught. I came to realise that I was not enjoying this Curry.  A rarity.

Time Out

In the Years of Curry-Heute, and over Six Hundred Curry Reviews, Hector has only described Four other Curry Venues which have served Food below – The Acceptable. Hector celebrates Curry, even when some do tend towards – School Dinners. Two Venues in Deutschland: Bamberg and Duisburg, one in Orkney, and the other a few hundred metres from Dabbha.

Hector stopped Eating

Unpleasant? Nausea was setting in. This was becoming a concern. Three small pieces of Lamb were left. Was this really Pickle and Cream? Do these ingredients complement each other? Not even in the Cuisine of The Further East where Vinegar is all.

The Bill

£12.20. Exactly what I paid in Dakhin. Value, if the meal had been enjoyed.

The Aftermath

Paying at the Counter, I offered the Calling Card to the Chap at ‘Till. I had to state that the Curry was nothing like what I had expected. I was aware of no Pickle. Why was there a Creamy Masala? He looked towards Mein Host. Mein Host had taken a Break and was enjoying the Fayre. Thankfully he was not disturbed. A New Chap was called in. There was concern.

It was agreed that Achari should not have been Creamy. The Bill was checked, I had asked for Achari. The Photo shows a Creamy Curry.

What was meant to be there? Lime Pickle or Karela?

I was informed that at The Dhabba they make their own Pickle. Pickle/Achari was not apparent.

We walked to the door together, apologies accepted.  He would tell The Chef that Acahri should not be Creamy.

If invited back, I would love to sample the Raan-E-Changeji.

Else, Farewell and Good Luck for the Twenty First Century.

Later On

On hearing The Saga, a Learned Colleague adapted one of Hector’s Favourite Quotes:

The Food here is terrible.

Yes, and the Portions are so Large….