A few weeks back, Curryspondent Stephen informed Curry-Heute of the imminent opening of a new Afghan Restaurant in Glasgow. The First, The Khyber, is greatly missed. Stephen suggested I give them a month to get settled. Yesterday I went looking for this venue along the length of Langside Rd and missed it. On the second attempt I found Sufi Restaurant (331 Langside Rd., Crosshill, Glasgow, G42 8XT) in the premises which were once the Albert Bar. People were standing outside, they went in, Hector followed.
Workers were still installing whatever, the place was Spartan. A Mature Couple were near the doorway, The Calling Card was offered as introduction.
We are open – The Lady assured me.
I have just eaten, I shall return tomorrow. With the briefest of Menus in hand off I went.
24 Hours Later
Entering this afternoon at 15.00, a Young Chap dressed for Restaurant work was standing at the Large Grill area to the right. Kebabs were being cooked under a massive Flue. I advised him that I was told they are open and pointed to the far end of the room where two tables were set. Lamb Karahi was my only utterance thereafter.
The Menu shows Lamb Karahi served with Salad and a Naan for £7.00. What does one get for this? The only drink on the Menu is Traditional Afghan Tea. Various Kebabs are described along with Qabeli which reads as a Biryani Variant. Six Lamb Chops for £5.00 sounds good, next time.
Sitting near the corner of the L-shape I could count another six tables. A Chap in Asian Dress sat barefoot on the Dais which was opposite the Bar. He appeared to be the source of the music, a transistor. I became intrigued, there was no movement from him, and no interaction with the various people who passed through. Was this a Customer, who was this Mystery Man? The Kebabs were for him. He ate on the floor of the Dais.
At 15.20, the Young Chap who was evidently Mein Host, came over enquire about the Spice Level. Spicy is good.
A Glass of Water was brought. A Modest Salad and Raita followed moments later, then, The Main Event.
A Large Round Plain Naan accompanied a Plate with Five Large Pieces of Lamb on-the-bone. The Masala was going to be the key to this Karahi. The Khyber Masala was unique, slow cooked in the Lamb’s own Juices and no Red Spices. Waris has introduced us to the White Karahi, Lamb cooked in Salt and Pepper. The Masala at Sufi was Darker, Rich, closer to the Punjabi Cuisine I have come to crave. From the first Dip of the Naan, oh yes! The Seasoning was right on the Limits of Tolerance. The Salt let the Flavours shine through. The Lamb was Tender but still required a decent chew. With no dignity at all, the Lamb was gnawed from the Bone. Such a joyful way to eat. Five Pieces, not normally enough, this was filling.
The Naan differed from the Soft-Puffy style, that one hopes for. Just over half was used. That Bread is served with the Lamb Chops suggests that avoiding Bread-overkill is something one may have to watch.
Mein Host offered me the Afghan Tea. Having established that this was without milk, the offer was accepted. Green Cardamoms featured in this Brew along with Large Green Leaves. Earthy, Slightly Bitter, Refreshing.
A return visit was already planned. Hector will be back on Saturday, Stewart will join me.
The Bill
Money did change hands. (BHHIP)
The Aftermath
Introductions were made. Mein Host is Habib, it was his parents I met yesterday. Sufi has been opened a month but is making slow progress. They hope to be fully resplendent by the end of the current holidays. I congratulated Habib on the Courage of his Chef who prepared such a well-seasoned Karahi. Habib had not sampled it. The Chef is from a Big City Restaurant. One wonders if he has been previously held back from preparing such a joyous dish?
Qabeli, a Persian Dish, was described as being a Sweeter interpretation of Biryani and does come with a Sauce. The Menu will be expanded as the business does.
I had to discuss portion size and prices. I would happily pay more for a Bigger Portion, simply ordering Two would double the Naan, no need. The (Half) Kilo is something Habib could consider as this is typical in this part of Glasgow.
will try this tomorrow. The Khyber in the south side was my favourite restaurant anywhere in the world. Not kidding. Got to know them really well. Gutted it’s closed.
Hector replies:
Let me know how you get on. They should have settled in by now…
Had Sufi’s takeaway menu stuffed through my door and it looked interesting enough to give it a go. Tried for soup and they didn’t have any. No salad either which was odd, but the negatives end there. Had the Banjan Borani, which is supposed to be aubergines in a fresh tomato and garlic sauce but the dish I had was thick with what I assume was spinach and topped with cheese – paneer maybe. Never mind. It was delicious. Had Ghorme Sabzi, a lamb dish described as being with fried veg, dried lamb and kidney beans. Small pieces of lamb cooked on the bone – essential for me. Lamb portion might not have been enough for you big hungry guys, but I had plenty. Side dishes of chick peas, chalow rice and a big hot puffy garlic nan. Spicing and seasoning throughout was just bang on. If they’re giving the chef free rein, I hope they keep on doing it and don’t try to adapt things for jaded local tastes. Will definitely be ordering again and trying some of the more standard dishes – like their pakora – to see of they put a spin on that and give me something as exciting and moreish as what I’ve just eaten.
Hector replies:
Hi, Alice, welcome to Curry Heute.
Thanks for your detailed review of Sufi’s. It would appear the place does have potential. Consistencey may be their current problem. I shall go back in the summer and see how they are getting along…
Kabuli Pulao is pulao rice ( chicken or lamb) with raisens and shredded carrots boiled in syrup. In our part of the world it is cooked in lard. No ghee is used.
Tastes yummy.
Hector replies:
Carrots – you say, Ahmed!
And where else might they appear?