Strathaven – Curry Haven – In Search of The White Karahi (Afghan Cuisine)

This evening Hector, Marg, Dr. Stan and Mags were invited to Curry Haven, formerly Taara Tandoori (12 Green Street, Strathaven ML10 6LT) to sample Chef Bill’s – White Karahi. An honour indeed. Bill has been in communication with Hector since discovering the UK’s Foremost Curry Blog during the summer. We have, as it happens, known each other for some thirty years, since the days of the Modern Punjabi.
Mein Host at Curry Haven is – Tony – whom Hector first met a mere twenty years ago at The New Anand (Strathbungo) where The Buffet was a local attraction. Tony then went on his own and opened the India Gate around the corner, and opposite the famous Allison Arms. Hector made reference to the India Gate in a Blog on the Urban Pind which too is no more. The Modern Punjabi, India Gate, – Gone, but not forgotten. Tony has been at Curry Haven (Taara Tandori) for some nine years.
Marg was the Designated Driver, We – The Three – had been invited to partake of Bier, not our norm with Curry. Mags and Hector were happy to accept the Asian-Fizz on offer, Dr. Stan could not possibly be seen to sup this. Dr. Stan also had another mission this evening, to drop of Good Beer Guide information at The Weavers across the road. Bill suggested Dr. Stan go across, fetch an Ale and bring it back, novel. He didn’t take much persuasion. Hold The Cobra! Sadly, Dr. Stan returned with something Brown and non-descript, Mags and Hector had the Fizz.

The Starters

A mass of Poppadoms preceded the array of Salads. A Standard Salad, check the Green Chillies, was accompanied by two new experiences. An Onion Salad was bursting with Flavour, Tangy too.

A Bowl of Ginger and Garlic appeared to be very simple, it was, and packed a Punch. Cloves of Garlic, fine if we all eat them. The Raita has Pakora in it – said Bill as he presented it. Small Balls of Something, Cottage Cheese was Marg’s guess. We had to ask – Bhundu Yoghurt – Raita with Pakora Batter.
As if this was not enough, the Largest Platter of Chicken Drumsticks ever seen was placed in the middle of the table. The Skin had been removed leaving White Chicken. This was very much in the style of cooking to follow. Jeera Chicken – was the nomenclature, Salt, Pepper, Cumin and a Fresh Coriander Garnish. To do this justice could run the risk of not being able to face the Karahi. This was Chicken, Simple, Sublime, Seriously Tasty.

There’s naught wrong with a Tasty Chicken Starter.
Dr. Stan and Hector did the most damage to the Chicken. The Ladies took more after persuasion. The Final Drumstick stared invitingly from the plate. Hector fell on the sword.

There was a plea for at least a twenty minute gap, time for more Ale, Dr. Stan disappeared to The Weavers once more. A Takeaway with a difference.
The White Karahi

Bill was shown how to make this – Curry with a difference – by a former Chef who was from Afghanistan.

It’s Red – was Bill’s admission soon after our arrival. There’s only three things in it. We would spend some time narrowing down the list. The essence of what Hector has come to know as – White Karahi – is the omission of Spices, especially Chili, Paprika, Cayenne et al.
Do you like Okra? – asked Tony before the Karahi arrived. He had Something Special cooked for us, courtesy of his Lady. Just how much of a Treat was this evening?
A Vast Karahi containing possibly 2kg of Lamb on-the-bone caused a gasp. This is mine, yours will be along in a moment.     As if…
Lamb can be Tender, this was as Tender as Lamb can be. The presence of Sucky Bones had Mags in her element. She appreciates the importance of The Marrow. The longest Sucky Bone came Hector’s way, a Tube of Marrow fell out, mixed with the Lamb, oh yes. The Masala was sufficient to shroud the Lamb, no more. The Seasoning was Intense, a suitable Kick, Marg could cope. The Oil collected on the base of the Karahi, we all knew to Dip the Chapattis here, the Oil gives off a Flavour of its own.

There are only three Ingredients – Lamb, Salt, Pepper, Tomatoes, Ginger, Oil, Fresh Green Chillies, hang on that’s seven. Bill sat with us on completion of our task and would narrow this down to Salt, Tomatoes and Green Chillies. He admitted a little Oil. Traditionally the Dish was cooked in the Fat of the Lamb. This is reportedly how the Mujahideen fed themselves during the Russian Occupation of Afghanistan. With the Sheep herded as they trekked through the mountains, they had all the remaining Ingredients on their back. So the Americans didn’t airdrop Capsicum? – Hector had to ask. Bill shares The Hector Abhorrence of this Ballast in Curry – Bulk – as Bill refers to it.

The Okra Portion was thankfully a small Bowl to share. Dark and Tangy, this was unlike any method of serving Okra encountered to date. Pickled – revealed Tony later. And so we ate. There was a definite Red due to the Tomato presence. We all remarked at how much we could actually taste – The Lamb. Also, there was the true sense of Spice in the Meat, not simply a Masala poured over Meat. We waved the Flag when there was the equivalent of Two Portions left. Doggy Bag. Mags will eat well in the days to come.
There was no need to ask for comments from my Fellow Diners. Dr. Stan was joined by Marg in he – Mmmms.     Mmmms -in stereo. More – Mmmms – than Hector has ever heard. This was Glorious, Delightful, Lovely, a Veritable Feast.

Having dined with Bill previously he took time to sit with us and introduce himself to The Company. Hector loves nothing more than talking – Curry, tonight we strayed into many other topics, Education too, the attitudes of parents, what we have lost. The offer of Strong Liquor was declined though Marg did ask for a White-Milky Coffee, then had the audacity to ask for a Chocolate. A plate came, they vanished, faster than the Chicken, even the final piece.
If my fellow Diners had room for Chocolate, why did they not eat more Curry?

Tony suggested that next time we have Fish, Fish Tandoori. Hector always sets the Fish Karahi Challenge. Tony took Hector upstairs and showed the Private Function Room. This room seats maybe twenty, has its own bar and then another room off. The side room has leather settees, a TV, a great place to relax after a meal, Karaoke was even mentioned. One could have a good night up there.

Tony is very appreciative of the Local Residents of Stathaven, a far cry from his experiences in Glasgow. With one other Curry House in Strathaven – Taal – and the Manzil Takeaway right across the street there is competition, more in nearby Stonehouse and Larkhall. I wish Tony and Bill well. We shall return for a 16.00 opening, if we can work out how to get the bus back to Hamilton.

A BIG THANK YOU to Tony and Bill, and a reminder to all Restaurateurs, Hector is always available to visit any Source of Curry at your command.

Update

As of September 2016, Tony’s business interests moved to The Moti Mahal (123 Old Castle Road, Cathcart, Glasgow G445TJ).

 Reviews of The Moti Mahal here