Here’s a tale for you: Hector is in Durham with Marg, a prequel to our Summer Vacation which The Lady deemed to be – not long enough. Returning from Sheffield by train on the East Coast line earlier this year, the Meander Loop of the River Wear was clearly seen along with one of England’s oldest churches and the Norman Castle. This is a scene I have used in sketch form in my previous life as a Geography Teacher, it didn’t prepare me for just how steep the slopes are in the hinterland.
Walking from the the Travelodge along Gilesegate and then Claypath, we passed The Capital and the Rajpooth Tandoori, Hector’s objective was the – intimate and family run – Shaheens just outside the Castle. It is closed on a Sunday I discovered, Tuesday Lunchtime may be my only opperchancity now.
Spice Lounge (St. Nicholas Cottage, Market Place, Durham, DH1 3NJ, England) was subsequently the nearest Curry House, easy to find if you have already found it. We came around the edge of the Market Square before realising that a close off the Market led straight to it. The interior walls of the restaurant are part of the City Wall in effect. Durham has History.
We were shown to a table for two at the far end where the seating area narrows. Marg had all the view, counted fourteen fellow diners and estimated the place to be a third full.
White Tablecloths, it has been a while.
*
The Menu had the Mainstream Array of Curry one expects with a section on Balti also, the latter were a Pound or so dearer for no apparent reason. We both reached the Fish Curry list, at £10.95 for each of our choices, better value. Again, I never understand why Fish Curry can be more expensive than Meat.
On spotting the Karai Ayre (£10.95) – Fillet of Ayre cooked in the karai with green chilli, fresh ginger, garlic, tomatoes, onion and capsicum – it had to be. How many Curry Houses attempt to serve a Fish Karahi? However, the Mainstream was anticipated, no Desi here.
Marg chose the penultimate Fish Curry from the List, Macher Molee (£10.95) – With fried garlic, cooked with onions, almonds with fresh cream, fresh coriander, bhuna style.
The Menu had no Plain Paratha so we agreed to share a Stuffed Paratha (£2.75) and a Vegetable Pilao (£3.60), six quid for Sundries, how far are we from Bradford? One day the West Yorkshire philosophy of Inclusive Sundries will conquer The World!
The Waiter carefully noted – No Peppers – having verified that Chillies were fine and that I was in fact not allergic to Capsicum.
Capsicum has no place in Curry – I had to tell him, just in case he didn’t know.
In his opinion – added Marg. Well, who else’s opinion would I give?
Marg asked for her Macher Molee to be – not too spicy.
Spice is not a problem for me – was my final contribution.
The wait was within acceptable parameters. From the window we could see the ring road, the interior ancient brickwork remained more fascinating.
The Karai Ayre was delightfully Pale, reminiscent of the Excellent Machi Masala served at Glasgow’s Cafe Salma once upon a time. That Machi Masala remains the Yardstick by which I judge Fish Curry as served in the UK. The Masala was suitably Minimal and Thick. Having withheld the Capsicum, Chef had, as I feared, overdosed on the Onions.
The Macher Molee was Red, very Red. Food Colouring to the fore, and violating one of the key elements of The Curry-Heute Campaign. There is no need for this. The Masala did look suitably Thick, – bhuna style – indeed.
The Vegetable Pilao was enough to share. Onion, Peas, Carrots and Green Beans all featured, with Turmeric no doubt, making it Yellow. The Stuffed Paratha arrived last, it was a Sensible Size, a suggestion of Layering and Flakiness around the Periphery, and indeed well stuffed with the same Vegetables as the Rice. Too hot to handle initially, this was a Pleasing Paratha, many sources sell limp, Peely Wally offerings. I could have asked for a Plain Paratha, I was still happy with this.
Ayre, or Ayer, is Catfish I have now established. There was a slight Sweetness from the Fish as Sources suggest one can expect. It is good to find – Fish – identified, and not just classified as – Masala Fish. The Kick from the Masala was Modest, when the Fresh Green Chillies were bitten into, Gosh! The Curry was lacking in Seasoning, which should not happen with Fish, Freshwater Catfish, is there any other kind? The Quantity of Ayre was Sufficient, again I have been to too many establishments which overcharge for Fish then skimp on the Portion. Despite the Onion Overdose, I had no regrets ordering this, until…
Coriander – was Marg’s first proclamation. Quite a rich sauce. The Thickness of the Masala impressed, the aforementioned Food Colouring did not. Thereafter Marg was strangely quiet, devouring Curry, Rice and Paratha. I had better sample this. Oh, a much Richer Flavour, more Seasoning. With Green Chillies added, this could have been the better choice.
So, not a Bad Experience by any means. One or two Tweaks and the Hector Palate would have been well impressed. The eyes, however, were offended.
The Bill
£31.75. With the Large Bottle of Sparkling Water, this was Very Good Value for Fish Curry.
The Aftermath
Time to find a Pub with a TV to watch a very average French team thrash an inferior Iceland Team. Who couldn’t beat Iceland?
Thereafter at the Victoria Inn, Mein Host without prompting, suggested that the Spice Lounge is the best Curry House in Durham. Serendipity, how often?