A Wednesday afternoon, the Glasgow Underground is operational once more, cue a visit to the Khyber Pass Restaurant (221 St. Andrews Road, Glasgow, G41 1PD), a five minute walk from Shields Rd. Subway Station. Today is the day that Hector puts his system to the test after a couple of weeks of being below par. Curry cures all.
I had phoned earlier to ensure that the venue was indeed open all afternoon. Hector’s preferred daily eating slot is 15.00, amazing how many places are closed at this time. As I entered, Abdul – Mein Host – was in heated discussion with a group of Chaps, all in formal attire. They were making their departure, it appeared. As I took my seat I hoped the Lamb Karahi would be as hot as the conversation. One of the group stayed to eat, two other Diners sat behind me, nobody was served until all was calm.
Abdul came from behind the counter, hands were shaken, this was only our third encounter. Curryspondent John put it to me after my first visit here that Abdul was once of the short lived Afghan Village on Pollokshaws Road. Little did I realise that I had the photographic evidence to establish this all along.
A Half Kilo of Lamb Karahi (£12.00) on-the-bone, it only comes that way, would be accompanied by a Naan (£0.50). Last time I had an Excellent Keema Naan to see if they passed The Test, they did. This time it had to be a Plain Naan, if only to report that the cost is indeed 50p.
Photographs of the interior were not possible last visit as the Khyber Pass was stowed. Today I managed some of varying quality.
A Modest Salad and Raita were placed before me after a few minutes, plus a Bottle of Still Water, I had expected the Jug of Tap Water. No Sparkling Water was available. No sooner had the moment been recorded when the Karahi and Bread were placed on the table.
This was smart Service, too quick. One cannot prepare a Proper Karahi in this time, but if this is their Main Dish on offer then they must have some … in The Pot?
Hector likes to watch the Oil collect on the sides of the Karahi as the Meat and Masala settle, today’s offering had too much Oil from the outset. At the New Karahi Palace the Bread and Karahi are usually too hot to touch on arrival, neither were particularly Hot here.
The Naan was a Good Size, different from that served in Indian/Pakistani Restaurants. I do not know if it was the perforations which made the difference, however, this Bread was more in the style of Bread served in the Middle East; not far from from a wonderful Israeli Pitta. Dipping the Bread in the Oil, as is my custom, did not give the anticipated – Wow. In fact, this was quite Unpleasant. The Oil did not have the Richness of Flavour of a Punjabi Karahi. This brought firmly to mind the difference between Afghan Cuisine and Punjabi. Only Salt and Pepper had been used, no Red Spices. Tomato Seeds were visible in the Masala, presumably no Onions had been used either. The Masala-Mash, if indeed this term was appropriate was more Pulped Meat than a Sauce. I was not convinced I had been given the best they could offer.
The Lamb counted sixteen pieces, mostly on-the-bone. So Tender, no complaints here, one could taste – The Lamb. The tip of my tongue was the assurance that the Dish was indeed Spicy. As I approached the bottom of the Karahi, so I had more Oil than anyone would wish, off-putting. Everything was now Cool, less pleasant.
Today was not a Good Day at the Khyber Pass. A very Simple Dish, very difficult to create, I have tried.
The Bill
£12.50. One cannot have any issues with the price.
The Aftermath
Abdul was finishing what looked like a Rice Pudding as I approached the counter. He offered me Dessert.
I am Savoury, not Sweet.
Abdul asked how I had enjoyed my Food. I had to tell him. Had it been served – Steaming Hot – it would have been so much better. The Oil?
I had Abdul confirm that no Onions had been used. He was proud to tell me – Salt and Pepper, no Spice.
Namkeen – I said.
He then offered to make me a Namkeen – Shoulder of Lamb.
Abdul served his best Namkeen Karahi during Eid. Whilst his Customers enjoyed it, they were not happy at having to pay more for the better Quality of Lamb.
Abdul had read the review of my first visit to Khyber Pass, he thanked me. He will hopefully take on board what is written here. Next time I will have two photos and point to the Magnificent Karahi I was served last time. Very Hot, and no Oil.
Abdul confirmed that the Khyber Pass Restaurant is basically open from Noon until 22.00 seven days a week. One should not go before 14.30 on a Friday as the Staff will be at prayers.
I shall be back of course, but presently do not feel in any rush. Saturday is Staggs Day, the Curryspondents know what follows.