On tracking down The Legend that is Waris four weeks ago, I promised to return to Deira Lahore (631 Cathcart Rd., Glasgow, G42 8AE) one mid afternoon, so that I could take the Opperchancity of sitting in. Deira Lahore was first visited in 2014, the then Operators had been in business for some seven years. Waris, one of Hector’s Favourite Chefs on Glasgow’s Southside, has migrated from Lasani Grill to Desi Curry Palace before setting himself up with the assistance of another Chef and his Dear Lady.
Deira Lahore remains primarily a Takeaway, though a couple of tables can be brought into use. Entering just after 15.00, Waris was taking a phone order whilst putting together a mass of Pizza for a customer. There was still time to shake Hector’s hand and give his customary warm welcome. I took a seat to make it clear I would be sitting in, then rose to study the Desi Curry Dishes on offer.
Two Lamb Dishes were to the front of the display, one was clearly Aloo Gosht, I asked about the other – Aubergine. Chicken Biryani, Chana Curry, Keema Mutter and a White (Namkeen ) Karahi were also on offer. Waris’ Namkeen Karahi is something to behold. I looked at it – Mmmm.
It’s Chicken – advised Waris knowing my preference for Lamb. Hector was tempted but restored the gaze towards the Aloo Gosht.
Aloo Gosht with Chicken Biryani please.
The Chicken was cut small and appeared to be the same Thigh Cuts I enjoyed so much last week at Desi Cafe. Waris asked me to give him ten minutes. A Young Chap had entered who was making an ever expanding order as whoever was on the other end of his phone asked for more. Given that this was the Quiet Time of the day, Business was looking good. Deira Lahore lies at the eastern extremity of Govanhill, not a bad location to compete with aforementioned premises on Allison Street.
The original Boards remain listing Peri-Peri Chicken, Kebap, Burgers, Fish and Chips, and Pizza. Waris has turned the counter to run the length of the premises and has therefore reduced the sitting area. Sitting in will always therefore be a cramped experience.
A Plateful of Desi Aloo Gosht, on-the-bone, was set before me along with another plateful of Chicken Biryani with some Onion and Greens. Raita came too. Waris then put two cans on the table and apologised for only having a plastic cup. I informed him that I knew I was not here for Five Star Dining, I was here for his Cooking.
When Curry-Heute began and I started touring the Southside Curry Cafes, I was critical of the Thin Shorva-style Masalas that accompanied some Dishes, Kofta Anda in particular. I have learned that this is the true Desi Masala, indeed, I encountered this Thin Masala often in India earlier this year. Expectations for Karahi are a different matter. The Tender Lamb was spooned across to the Biryani. It looked as if Waris had attempted to give me Rice and had withheld most of the Chicken. Still, the Bits confirmed the Thigh Texture which Hector has come to accept as Chicken Curry.
The Kick came from the Aloo Gosht, the Seasoning came from the Biryani. Cloves in the Rice gave an aromatic Flavour, this was a great combination of Dishes. Yes I know, traditionally I should have had a Chapatti with the Desi Aloo Gosht, too Splashy.
Are you enjoying this, or just filling your stomach? – asked Waris.
I am enjoying your cooking.
As I ate, Waris told me that this is the Food that is served at his home, he would not sell anything that was not. He asked after my Friends who have dined in his presence over the years, and then enquired about my recent visits to Desi Cafe. I read you online. I mentioned that I was aware of his former colleague, Ikram, being in Pakistan. The Joys of t’Internet.
The Bill
On producing the Cash, Waris looked a bit embarrassed. He didn’t want to charge me, to show his appreciation that I have deliberately gone out of my way to follow him and support his business. In the end, money did change hands, about half of what I was due.
The Aftermath
There had to be a Ritual Photo. This is Waris, Legendary Chef. Stop off and buy a Takeaway.
