There are some Southside venues which Hector is long overdue visiting. Anarkali (531 Victoria Rd, Glasgow G42 8BH) is most certainly in this category. It is thirty seven years since I last dined here, 1980, after my first stint as a Volunteer in Israel. Three years ago, Curryspondent Archie suggested I should visit, if even just for the Takeaway Pakora whose volume must match Dumbarton’s Delhi Darbar.
This Lunchtime saw Hector take The Mother for her bi-monthly shop, as has become – The Model – there was Curry involved. Time will tell if I regard any Govanhill/ Queen’s Park Venue as not being suitable for The Mother of Hector.
The Menu was studied online yesterday. Only one Fish Curry is on offer, this with a Sweet & Sour Sauce, not for me. The Karahi are described as being in the style I try to avoid – an abundance of Onion and Capsicum, and far removed from the – Heavenly Dish – I enjoyed last Wednesday at Karahi Palace. Japuri – was my favoured choice before arriving. I do wonder why the Menu makes such a feature of – Chicken – is it because Lamb and Prawns are charged at higher prices?
Nine Diners were already present when Mother and Hector entered Anarkali just after 13.30, two more came soon afterwards. This is good for a Tuesday Lunchtime, the associated Menu may be good value.
Mother glanced at the Lunchtime Menu and stated that she is not a fan of Pakora. Even with a few pieces, she would be unlikely to finish her Main Course. I asked for the a la carte, this came immediately.
Mother’s Order was as it was and shall remain: Lamb Curry (£9.50) with Boiled Rice (£1.80). Chutney was asked for, the price of this to be announced.
I asked the Waiter if there was indeed only one Fish Curry. This was the case. It was time to describe – The Hector Curry:
Lamb, Tender Lamb, with a Dry and Thick Masala, and no Capsicum.
He immediately suggested Lamb Karahi.
I questioned the presence of Capsicum and was assured these could be withheld.
I don’t want Big Chunks of Onion either.
Mushrooms?
Perfect.
Why does this Level of Flexibility not prevail?
A Glass of Tap Water and a Bottle of Sparkling Water completed the Order.
You asked for dry? The Waiter reconfirmed moments later. This suggested there was an actual – Chef – in the kitchen, too often at Lunchtimes I suspect some venues of reheating Leftovers from yesterday.
Sitting next to the Bar, I could not see what was being served to the majority of those present. The nearest group had bottles of Bier and Wine, taking full advantage of the – Free Corkage – at Anarkali. Platters of Sizzling Tandoori Chicken were served to them, which reminds me: I have had no updates on the Akash in Helensburgh, will it ever open again?
I could hear my Lamb Karahi before it reached me, this looked just – The Business. The Masala was Thick and Minimal, it had been reduced in the Karahi, the tell tale singe marks on the Meat giving this away. The Meat was piled high, easily double figures, Large Pieces too. The Mushrooms had been sliced, time would reveal the extent of these.
Lamb Karahi
The Paratha was Huge and had Girth. It was already a matter of – how much would I leave? Layered and Flaky, and served Whole, only a lack of Seasoning stopped this being Perfect. It was still Damn Good.
Mother was taking an age to get going, spooning the Rice a bit at a time. Warm plates – was her first positive remark. The Chutney came last, there’s no point telling The Mother to order a Patia.
Lamb Curry
There was more Lamb here than Mother would ever eat. The Masala was the standard – Puréed – Classic Indian.
The Boiled Rice was served as a Sensible Portion, but still more than Mother required. There would a Doggy Bag. I dipped some Paratha in the Masala, probably the same as in the Karahi, but in its original state.
When the Waiter came over to make the Customary Check, I gave the thumbs up, Mother stated her enjoyment, clearly
With three pieces of Lamb left and lots of Rice, the Doggy Bag was declared.
One or two pieces of Lamb were not as soft as others. The sauce was beautiful, I cannot complain.
Oil was collecting at the base of the karahi, just the way I like it. The Seasoning was not up to Hector’s hoped-for Level, the Spice was Moderate. There was an underlying Earthy Flavour from the Masala, sadly the Meat itself was giving out very little. Hector too thought the Doggy Bag would be summoned, this was a Huge Portion to attempt this early in the day. Fortunately, the Meat gave way to Mushrooms, more easily digested, and giving off their unique flavour. For the record, I would never have ordered a Curry without Mushrooms in the Epoch when I last dined at Anarkali.
Mother asked if I was enjoying my meal.
Good for a place with tablecloths – was the reply. I still prefer the Curry served in the local Curry Cafes.
The Calling Card was presented before The Bill was summoned. I thanked the Waiter for the Flexibility, being able to order – off Menu. He told me Chef was the Owner, and so is therefore used to cooking to order. He also mentioned a – Chef’s Curry – which is popular, available on Fridays and Saturdays.
The Bill
£26.80. The Sparkling Water was £1.50, the Soupçon of Chutney, £1.10.
The Aftermath
Mein Host came out from the kitchen. Unsure as to whether the Calling Card had reached the kitchen, I decided to go for it. There was a photo.
So there we have it, Anarkali, founded in 1975 and one of Glasgow’s few actual – Indian Restaurants. That this venue has survived this number of years is proof that they must be doing something right. The competition in this part of Glasgow is Fierce, if Classic Curry is your thing, give Anarkali a try.