A Sunday night in Aberdoom and Hector Naypals takes himself out for Curry. Nurtaj Indian Restaurant (58- 60, Justice Mill Lane, Aberdeen, AB11 6EP) was spotted in September when I was last up in the North. Why was I not aware of its existence prior to this? Why had nobody ever mentioned it?
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I arrived at 20.20 and was greeted ever so warmly by Mein Host. He showed me to one of two small recessed tables. I felt I was sitting in a cupboard. At least from here I could take my photos discretely.
The Menu was brought, the term – Rural and Village wood style cooking – featured prominently. There was a sense of something different happening here. I decided to ask for clarification of some Dishes.
Having described my desire for a Dry, Thick Masala, Mein Host suggested the Napali Bhoona (Med) (£10.95). The Green Peppers could be withheld, but when he described it as being served on a – sizzler – the term – Stir-fry – came to mind.
He then suggested the Uttar Pradesh Masala (£10.95) which featured Fenugreek. If there was any Methi in the Kraków Curry served to me last week, I was not aware of it. It was – Methi time.
Should I have Rice or Bread? – I asked.
Mein Host suggested a Paratha (£3.50). I was up for this, I had a whole lotta Rice last week. The offer of Poppadoms (£1.25) was declined. A half litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£1.95) completed the Order.
I asked how long Nurtaj has been in operation, the answer surprised – nine weeks. This explains why I was unaware of Nurtaj until last month. I was told they started in Stonehaven where they still have Soul and Spice.
My food was brought at 20.37 which was time enough to cook the Paratha, a bit quick for the Curry. OK, Nurtaj was empty, the only other customers had departed soon after my arrival.
The Paratha approached perfection: the Layering, the Flakiness, the Swirl, all present. It was possibly a bit greasy, but way better than that served in the majority of venues.
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Uttar Pradesh Masala
The Curry arrived in a pot, the lid was whisked away to reveal the contents. I had to look deep into the pot to find the Curry. Is that all?
A Sprinkling of Fresh Coriander covered a Red, Rich-looking, Blended Masala. Onions (Syboes?) had then been finely chopped and mixed in. I prodded around to find the Meat, I counted eight, some of which were decidedly on the small side. This was the antithesis to the eighteen pieces of Meat served last Monday at Parampara in Kraków. This was far from being a feast.
There was a slight Sweetness in the Masala which was not expected. How can a Curry with Methi be Sweet? The Coriander was the standout Flavour, otherwise the Flavours were not intense. The Onions made me think – Dopiazza, I would have preferred less Onion, more Tomato and no Sweetness.
The Spice was hardly noticeable, the Seasoning was fine. The Meat, which I eked out, was suitably Tender. Sorry if I am not sounding enthusiastic. I’ve had some Excellent Curry recently and Bradford is looming. This was very much the Curry in between.
A small jar containing a Chilli Sauce was presented. This was even Sweeter and so was set aside.
The pot was wiped clean with the Paratha. This was one of those scenarios: not a Great Curry but still Curry and so enjoyable, no more. This stunning dish is the chef’s favourite – it says on the Menu.
When asked for my verdict on the Curry, I related that it was too Sweet for my palate.
The Calling Card was given and the Website shown.
The Bill
£16.10 Note the Aberdeen bread prices.
The Aftermath
I was offered a Liqueur or Spirit on the house. This is given to all guests, a thanks for coming.
I’ll give you the best brandy of the house – I was assured – It’s an honour to have you here.
