Edinburgh – Zest – By Invitation

Once again, Hector has been invited by Scott of Hotel PR to review a Curry House in the east of Scotland. This evening it was Zest (15 North St. Andrew St. Edinburgh, EH2 1HJ). More than just a Glasgow Curry Blog – is the tagline in Curry-Heute, this has seen Hector review well over one hundred Curry outlets in Glasgow alone and hundreds more beyond over four continents, but Zest is only the fourth Edinburgh venue to appear in Curry-Heute. Zest serves Indian and Bangladeshi Cuisine, a departure from the favoured Punjabi Cuisine which dominates the west of Scotland.

Zest, I must admit to liking the duality of the name, is located in the heart of Edinburgh, the bus station is metres away, trams pass outside en route to the York Place terminus. Being a Sunday, Marg and Hector were able to park nearby.

We arrived minutes before the scheduled daily opening time of 17.30, a couple were waiting outside. This we would soon realise were staff members Ranjit and Quesell who would be looking after us this evening. Having introduced myself, Ranjit showed us to the window table, the standard tactic adopted across the land; we were the de facto window dressing. Ranjit brought a much welcomed fan heater which was placed nearby, winter has arrived in the East. He told us that Zest had been really busy over the last few nights.

I took the opperchancity to photograph the restaurant whilst it was still empty. Zest accommodates forty plus diners, an area beyond the bar may be suitable for a larger group. Bar? Zest is fully licensed. On returning to our window table, the seclusion amused.

Quesell brought the Menu. Having looked at the Menu online I was prepared for a lengthy discussion as to the meanings of some of the more obscurely named Dishes. Fortunately, descriptions of these Dishes were given, and crucially, the contents. Despite being offered the Drinks Menu and being invited to order as we pleased, we would stick to our preferred – tipple – with Curry: a litre bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.95) was quickly arranged.

Starters were shunned in favour of Bombay Aloo (£5.95), a Vegetable Side. This has proven to give a better representation of the Fayre when the two of us dine at a new venue. Applying the same logic, we would share a Vegetable Pilau Rice (£5.50) and a Paratha (£3.50). Hector’s preferred Main Courses are either Lamb or Fish. I saw nothing in the – Seafood Specialities – that looked – must have, the names of the Lamb Dishes had intrigued since I first looked at the Zest Menu.

Marg was first to declare: Sir Walter Scott Lamb Sarisha (£12.95). Sarisha is a town in West Bengal (India) and also translates as: Charming, Fascinating. The Menu defines the rest. Marg likes to predict my choice – Shashi Garam Masala (£12.95) – Tender pieces of lamb fillets cooked with hot spices and green chillies in a thick sauce, garnished with coriander (Hot) – was her correct pick. With a Thick Masala, Spicy, and no mention of the – Dreaded Green Ballast – this ticked most of Hector’s boxes. Shashi – translates as either – moon – or – the most handsomest man you’ll ever see. Time would tell if this really was a Curry fit for a Hector.

Marg decided she wanted a Poppadom (£0.95) and some Mango Chutney. Quesell offered the Pickle Tray (£1.95). Marg held out for only Mango Chutney.

As part of the ongoing – Curry-Heute Campaign – I asked Quesell to ensure that no Green Peppers (Capsicum) would appear in any of the Dishes ordered. I heard her relay this to her colleague: No Peppers.

No sooner had Marg finished her Poppadom than she announced that she was curious about the alternative – Spicy Poppadom. This had more to it, Chilli Powder sprinkled over the Poppadom then toasted. Marg had been hoping for the Euro-style Poppadom with embedded Cumin Seeds. She decided that she preferred the Plain Poppadom.

A candle lit plate warmer was brought by Quesell, Ranjit followed with the Curry. He declared that the Sir Walter Scott Lamb Sarisha was his favourite dish whilst the Shashi Garam Masala was too spicy for him. The Bombay Aloo was placed between the two Mains.

The Vegetable Pilau Rice had the classic mix of Vegetables: Potato, Carrots, Green Beans, Peas, Sweetcorn and Cauliflower. I took half, this was enough given that we had Bread also. The Paratha impressed the moment it was placed on the table. Hector’s criteria for judging a Paratha have become well defined: Soft, Layered, Flaky and the presence of – The Swirl. This Paratha had all these, a potential delight.

Shashi Garam Masala

The garnish was two slivers of Red Capsicum (!), a Dark Red Chilli and two Coriander Leaves, only two. Had Chef not read the script? Dark Red Chillies are always a welcome sight, even when unexpected, they bring the wonderful Flavours of Southern India to mind. The Masala was decidedly – thick – as written. This Curry had great promise.

I counted nine large pieces of meat as I decanted the first half of the Shashi Garam Masala to my plate. Large, one piece could have been cut into four. The appearance of the Lamb was significantly different from that served in any of the hundreds of Curry Houses Hector has reviewed. Marg recognised this too, – sliced – was how she described it. This Lamb was very special, – Succulent – is a term I use sparingly, this was – Magnificent Meat – Soft, Tender and Coherent. On tasting, the Lamb was decidedly part of the Curry, not the recent – add-in – that too many venues get away with. The Lamb at Zest has set a new – Standard – in Curry.

Hot – was how the Menu described the Shashi Garam Masala. The Spice Level was apparent from the first mouthful, a Big Spice Hit. In Curry-Heute, the success of any Curry is judged by the level of Seasoning. The Seasoning here was spot on, brave, and so the full Flavours of the Spices were released. One whole Green Cardamom was encountered and set aside.

Bombay Aloo

The Potato was shrouded in a Rich, Thick Masala which also contained fine slices of Onion. The garnish had even less Fresh Coriander. Sharp – is what was noted, there was a hint of Citrus, Zest! The Potato was somehow – Fluffy – and the actual taste of the vegetable itself was pronounced. How was this achieved? This was as good a Bombay Aloo as I have encountered. Complemented by the array of Vegetables in the Pilau Rice, the Diversity of Flavours and Textures was the perfect accompaniment to the Meat and Masala.

Happiness is... – observed Marg. Hector was in a very happy place, but there was one problem…

Sir Walter Scott Lamb Sarisha

Two slices of Onion and a few Coriander Leaves topped this Curry. Garnished with spring onions – said the Menu, methinks they were out of – Garnish – this evening. The Masala was as Thick as the Shashi Garam Masala, but Darker. The pedigree of Zest was thus confirmed, neither of our Mains had the – Soupy Masalas – that prevail in Bangladeshi Curry Houses throughout the land. Only a Soupçon came in my direction, the – Little Brother – of the Shashi Garam Masala was my verdict. Marg meanwhile had been thoroughly enjoying her choice.

Very tender meat – was Marg’s immediate comment.

Pretty dry – she continued. This is a positive, as written above, we do not seek – Soup.

A good balance of flavours, very succulent and tender meat which made it a more enjoyable dish. I really enjoyed it.

However, there was a problem: – food could be hotter – I noted moments after starting. No sooner had I written this than Marg declared: The temperature could be warmer, the china dishes… We prefer our food to be served piping hot with vapour rising, we are used to Bread so hot one cannot pick it up.

We were left to conclude that all of the Fayre had been served in cold crockery which made everything cool very quickly. Fortunately, this was resolved. The plate heater had been keeping the second half of the three Dishes warm, perhaps it had even managed to reheat them. The plate heater saved the Curry Dishes, but not the Paratha. As Marg stated finally:

The Paratha was lovely and flaky, but could have been hotter.

Anis, the Manager, had arrived somewhere in the middle of our visit. He came over to introduce himself and apologise that Mein Host was elsewhere this evening. Marg and I both expressed our appreciation for what we had eaten, but did have to mention that the second half was warmer. The Curry-Heute Website was shown on the still reliable Huawei and the extent of the – World Coverage – outlined:

You know your Curry.

Thanks.

Marg asked if her favoured – Hot Milky Coffee – could be provided. Quesell brought a cafetière and a jug of hot milk. Now who was in a happy place?

Without – The Bill – our departure felt a bit strange. We have adopted a means of making sure the staff know they have been appreciated.

The Quality of the Fayre we experienced tonight most certainly impressed, surprised even. I refer often to – Mainstream Curry Houses, Zest have set a standard well above this. Marg and Hector shall certainly return to Zest, most likely on a warm summer evening.