When Marg and Hector reviewed Zest (15 North St. Andrew St. Edinburgh, EH2 1HJ) last week, Curryspondents – Methi Freak – and – Archie insisted that Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) is a venue that had to be visited. Kebab Mahal is metres from the delightful Tanjore – South Indian Cuisine which has been visited twice to date. Edinburgh’s equivalent of The Village (Glasgow) – was how Kebab Mahal was put to Hector. Lazeez Tandoori (191Dalry Rd, Edinburgh EH11 2EB) is presently the only Curry House in Edinburgh which is recommended on Curry-Heute. The latter serves Punjabi Cuisine which is Hector’s favoured style, and is not typical of what is served in Edinburgh, though, the coverage of Scotland’s capital is admittedly minimal. Glasgow remains Scotland’s – Curry Capital.
Opening at noon each day makes Kebab Mahal an interesting prospect. Lunch on December 20 was already in the diary, however, a spontaneous trip to Edinburgh today presented an opperchancity. I arrived at 16.10, the place was empty though two takeaway customers were on my tail. A mature gentleman who I would deduce to be Mein Host was serving.
Methi Ghoust (£7.35) was recommended by Mr. Methi Freak. A Paratha (£2.15) would accompany. Two more staff arrived, one disappeared into the kitchen, the second took over serving duties. Meanwhile the phone was ringing oft, orders noted. A Chap was ordering food to eat in and take away. This was his first day in Edinburgh in two years he told me, and anyone else who would listen. The food he didn’t eat-in was packed and taken away with his other order. He was a happy chap.
From the outside, Kebab Mahal looks very much like a Takeaway venue, I was surprised to find eight tables and over thirty seats inside. The décor is most certainly – Curry Cafe – which is Hector’s preferred type of venue. As for the comparison with – The Village – perhaps – The Village @2008. There was an award on the wall from the Scottish Curry Awards – Takeaway of the Year – for 2016.
Who wins Awards?
The food arrived, the new serving chap offered me a drink, Sparkling Water was available.
The Paratha was close to perfection. It was large with a reasonable girth, and the layering was evident when I tore off the first strip. Serving a Paratha whole adds so much more to the pleasure. Whilst the Paratha was Soft, it was not as Flaky as I would have liked. Still, this was very acceptable, especially when one considers the temperature. As with the Main Course, vapour was rising at the point of serving, a far cry from the Fayre served at Zest last week.
Methi Ghoust
There are two types of Methi Gosht: my preferred version is a Masala with Methi, the possibly more authentic version is what was served today – a mass of Herbs – which for me is not really a Masala. I know Yadgar (Glasgow) which is where I probably last had this, use five different Herbs to create their – Mash: Methi, Palak, Mustard Leaves, Curry Leaves(?) and ?. This Kebab Mahal Methi Gosht is essentially identical.
The Portion was decidedly large, I counted ten good sized pieces of Meat.
The array of Herbs gave a powerful, Earthy Flavour. The Spice Level was moderate, I don’t think moderate Seasoning mattered so much with all this greenery present. Whilst the Lamb was suitably Tender, it did feel somewhat alien in the Dish as a whole. Lamb with Herbs, one could question if this really was a – Curry – by the normal acceptable use of the term. Saag/Palak Gosht, I prefer mine as described above.
Meanwhile
Four Polish chaps had come in and were making their choices. Another solo diner sat opposite me, mid-room. His Curry was closer to being a Hector Curry than I had ordered. The karahi was full of Meat and shrouded with a Minimal Masala. He had been given two side plates, one with two large Green Chillies, the other with freshly Sliced Onion. I looked back at the Menu to see what this could be. Bhuna was my best guess, but this was way better than any Mainstream Curry. Time for Hector Holmes to come into action.
Mein Host was back behind the counter, I went up to pay.
The Bill
£10.65 I calculate the Perrier was £1.15.
The Aftermath
Mein Host was delighted to receive the Calling Card, he thanked me profusely. I brought my fellow diner into the conversation, he was having Lamb Karahi, well of course he was!
Mein Host opened the Takeaway Menu, he showed a section I had ignored, Specials – included Lamb Karahi on-the-bone or boneless. December 20 is still in the diary, Hector will return at opening time: Lamb Karahi on-the-bone please.
Thank you.
The No. 2 Bus Stop is directly across Nicolson Square from Kebab Mahal, it takes one straight to Monty’s which appears to be the only Pub in Edinburgh presently. In the course of the evening, Neil told me of two venues on Leith Walk which he considers worthy of investigation: Desi Pakwan and Punjabi Junction.
More than just a Glasgow Curry Blog – is the tagline above. 2019 may become the year of Edinburgh Curry.
Menu Extracts
“You’ll have had yer tea then…?” -)
Good stuff Hector.On reflection I should have realised your preference for a less herby and Palakesque iteration of Methi Gosh. However Ive found the chaps at Kebab Mahal most amenable to suggested tweaks.
It’s curious;in my nearly 30 years going here (since my plooky student youth) I’ve never seen it so quiet.Its always been a very busy joint although it’s a tight run ship and turnarounds for tables is quick yet without ever leaving one feeling rushed. It gets particularly busy between 5 and 10 pm though.
The problem I’ve noticed with Edinburgh curry houses over the years is as you might expect.They tend to be at the swankier end of the market to cater for, well,the Edinburgh market. Kebab Mahal has long been a favourite as the prices have always been very keen and its retained its curry cafe vibe despite the Edinburgh effect. There aren’t many of these joints left unfortunately.
Good luck on your next visit for the Karahi and,again, I’d recommend the Seekh Kebabs.The best I’ve ever had.
Hector replies:
You should start a Blog, Dear Chap!
I’m looking forward to my return visit to Kebab Mahal, though doubt I could do a Seekh and a main course.