It’s that time of year when every Chap has to take his Chapatti out for a romantic dinner. Cheaper than flowers, and two people get to enjoy. Marg has another commitment tomorrow and so Hector gets to save a few bob by being out a day early.
Green Gates (65 Ferry Rd, Renfrew PA4 8SH) was the chosen venue for this – Special Curry. Green Gates! The namesake of the venue on Gibson Street (Glasgow) where Hector had his first Restaurant Curry @1966-7, a Lamb Vindaloo, of course. Marg was here with – The Carnoustie Two – last year whilst Hector was abroad, someone had done their research, Dr. Alasdair. The online Menu showed Lamb Shank (£14.80) in the – Special Menu – section. When accompanied by a decent Masala it can be excellent, when served in a Shorva, forget it. Well, that’s how Hector sees it.
Green Gates is two miles from Hector’s House as the crow flies, Hector is not a crow. However, when the new bridge is built across the Clyde, Yoker/Clydebank will be minutes from Renfrew/Braehead. Meanwhile, the foot ferry plods on. Green Gates, as the address confirms, is seconds from the terminal.
Stirling is where Green Gates began, there is quite a pedigree. The two main chaps worked at Mother India, the Restaurant, then Chain, which revolutionised Curry in the West of Scotland. Renfrew is the second Green Gates outlet in Scotland.
Hector and Marg were out – to dine – this evening – and to sample Indian Cuisine rather than Hector’s customary – Punjabi. We arrived sometime after 20.00, a few diners were in situ. We were greeted by Mein Host who initially offered us a small table in the midst of les autres. Hector held out for a larger table, the last table before the access to the rear dining area. This is quite a sizeable premises, one wonders if they will be full tomorrow evening?
The Main Menu and the Special Menu were provided, the Drinks Menu was already on the table. A Large Bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25) was what Hector had in mind. A Metal Pitcher of Tap Water and two Goblets appeared from behind me.
Hector throws down the Goblet (sic)
With the Mother India connection, Hector expected Marg to have Butter Chicken, available as a Main Course (£9.95) or – Small (£6.95). Marg regards the Butter Chicken served at Mother India’s Cafe as – The Best. This is partly down to the Quality of the Curry but also the Tapas-sized portion. Marg finds a full portion of Butter Chicken to be excessive. Hector’s plan was to avoid just – Meat & Masala – by ordering the Mixed Vegetable (£7.50) as a sharing Curry, then both of us should have the required – Diversity.
Initially Marg was not playing. She studied all her options, but finally came on board. A Chapatti (£1.30) was her first mooted accompaniment. In the end, Hector’s preferred share of a Paratha (£3.30, ouch!) and Basmati Fried Rice (£2.90) was deemed acceptable. This is our norm, especially when visiting a new venue: the Quantity of Rice can be assessed and also the efficacy of the Bread.
The Chap whom I would later know to be – The Manager – came to take the Order. I asked if there were Green Peppers in the Mixed Vegetable, apparently so. It was agreed that these would be withheld.
Are you allergic? – he asked, I know they have to cover themselves given what happened in England last year. My abhorrence of Capsicum in Curry was related, Marg was worried when I said – Chillies are OK, just no Peppers. Marg feared a Chilli overdose.
No Starters? – he asked, this appeared to take him aback. I think we had ordered enough. The Order taken, he was back moments later, they only had 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water (£1.95). He brought two.
There was a brief chat at this time. That we had travelled to get here was appreciated. Hector believed the Yoker Ferry to be closed, apparently it was reinstated last year. Good information, but how late does it operate?
Soup, not Shorva!
Two tiny portions of Tomato Soup were brought to us. The Manager explained that as our Order was being properly prepared, it would take some time. This was a Complimentary Soupçon! (did I actually just write that…)
The Tomato Soup had a Spice Topping, was Hot and did the job. It tasted far better than my ongoing – Tomato Puree – prepared this afternoon and based on Parveen’s Sunday morning Indian Cookery programme. This too will become Butter Chicken, but not yet.
The food began to arrive, we needed the space. The Butter Chicken was placed nearer me, come on!
The Rice was enough to share, the Paratha, take a look at the Paratha. I have never seen such layering. This Paratha had the – Swirl – was Flaky and was served whole. We had the perfect accompaniments for the Main Courses.
Lamb Shank
Topped with Ginger Strips and a few Fresh Coriander Leaves, this was a work of art. The size of the plate looked, well, silly. But I suppose it had to be this size to accommodate the large piece of Lamb on-the-bone and the lake of Masala which accompanied. Dining alone, I would have eaten from this plate, however there was the Mixed Vegetable to consider and the Rice, decanting was necessary. It was only at this point that I realised the Masala was not just sauce but had quite a few pieces of Boneless Lamb in there too. I took a sufficiency and was then overcome with a flush of generosity. Knowing Marg had minimal Meat, I gave her a couple of decent sized pieces of Lamb, that went down well.
Mixed Vegetable
The Carrots stood out, I have never seen so many and such large pieces of Carrot in a Vegetable Curry, no artistry here. The Peas were also highly visible, the petite florets of Cauliflower would reveal themselves later, Potato? None seen. The Masala impressed. This was in the Hector style: Thick, sufficient, the counterpoint to the accompanying the Lamb Shank.
The first strip of Paratha was dipped into the Lamb Shank Masala, we had a winner! Aniseed was the first Spice to register on the palate, moments later this was altered to Clove. It may have been a combination of both, embarrassing if it was neither. Most importantly, this Masala had a decent Texture and had a genuine depth of Flavour. Latterly, Venison came to mind, this Masala had the richness of Flavour I have come to associate with a Venison Curry, dark, earthy, Umami. Mixing it in with the Rice was very satisfying. Marg knew there was more Masala than I would ever eat, already she was making plans for it to come home.
The Meat was in two parts. The Boneless Meat perhaps belonged to another Curry, but nothing I could identify from tonight’s Menu. I would happily have had this as a Main Course. It was time to tackle the Lamb Shank itself. Careful, Hector, eat it, don’t wear it. The Lamb came off the bone with ease, a knife had to be employed to cut it onto more manageable pieces. This Lamb was beyond – Tender. I have encountered some great Quality Lamb in the last couple of months, this must have surpassed everything. The Meat, the Masala, the Paratha, there’s more.
Any Flavours from the Mixed Vegetable were initially drowned by the richness of the rival Masala. The ratio of Carrots to everything else still amused, then I found some Potato, two pieces, Yay! Marg had finished, all that was left was Hector’s. Having taken the last third of the Mixed Vegetable the enjoyment of the – more than just Meat and Masala – was continuing. It was only at this point that the Flavours of this Curry registered. How the palate was able to take on any more surprised this writer, mission accomplished.
No mention has been made of the Spice Level or Seasoning which is the normal Curry-Heute template, no notes were taken on these. The Spice was there but was never demanding. The Seasoning must have been spot on, particularly in the Lamb Shank Masala.
Butter Chicken
Chicken Soup topped with Almonds is how Hector is always going to see this Curry, it is not for me; Marg loves it. The portion matched her needs exactly, enough, not a sickly excess.
Lovely, quite tomatoey, very tasty – were Marg’s first words on the Butter Chicken. Marg confirmed that the Quantity of Masala was such that it required the Rice. What she had here worked well for her:
I liked the tapas.
However, the Lamb pieces certainly impressed Marg also:
Having the Lamb was a lovely contrast.
Everything was eaten except a scrap of the Paratha and the excess Masala from the Lamb Shank. The latter would be left, Hector is working hard at developing new Masalas at home, this would have been an unnecessary distraction.
We chose well – I said to the Manager as he cleared the table. He congratulated us on our choices, but then he was hardly going to take the – p.
Marg was not finished, Mango Ice Cream (£3.95) and an Extra Hot Latte (£2.95) would complete her meal. Hector had been sated, why dilute the wonderful Flavours which were still on the palate?
When the Ice Cream came, one spoon somehow became two. Hector succumbed, delightful Ice Cream. The Coffee was also as Hot as Marg required. Success.
The Bill
£46.25 It must be Hector’s birthday soon.
The Aftermath
I managed to give the Calling Card to Mein Host, and so began the lengthiest of chats. I believe this was Balram, his years with the Mother India group were related and the opening of their first premises in Stirling. He and his partner Tarun wish to recreate the true style of Indian Curry. Delhi is the city whose Curry has inspired the Fayre at Green Gates. His observation is that people either like their interpretations of Dishes and so return, or quite simply they don’t. He related the tale of a couple who ordered Chicken Pakora and complained it was not – Red. It appears we are on the same page. Green Gates keep their Menu deliberately small, not the page after page of endless tweaks to what comes out of the same pot. The aim is to serve Authentic Cuisine.
Raan for Two (£29.50), a whole Leg of Lamb, is a Dish they are clearly proud of. I wonder how many takers they have? A challenge, for two chaps perhaps?
A third outlet is hoped for, Gibson Street was mentioned. It would be magnificent if they could somehow acquire the original premises, West End rent… What was once the home of Glasgow Curry has no Curry Houses presently, they could make a killing. In the meantime, when is the new bridge over the Clyde due for completion?
The Menu (extracts)
