Hector was in Praha this morning arriving back at Edinburgh Airport at 12.30. Some of – The Company – were assembling this afternoon in the East, and so Hector decided to postpone the rest of the journey back to Glasgow. Hector travelled down to Leith Walk last month to find Desi Pakwan (61 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8LS) not open at noon on a Thursday as Google Maps suggest. Surely by 14.00 they had to be?
Two chaps were tucking in to a share of something wonderful as I took my seat. They had evidently ordered from the – Traditional Punjabi Salan – section of the Menu. All on-the-bone Curry is cooked to order and takes forty five minutes. Hector was not prepared to spend this long waiting and so chose the Lamb Karahi (£9.95) from the – House Special. Achari Naan (£2.95), who has ever heard of this? It had to be tried.
Mein Host was running the show on his own, taking Orders, cooking and clearing up. One assumes that he has help later in the day. He asked if I wished the on-the-bone version – Desi Lamb Karahi – (£12.50) and sold by the half kilo. I was tempted but stuck to my plan, next time. As always, I sought confirmation that no Capsicum would appear in my Karahi. The reaction amused, he was quite adamant that he would never serve Peppers in a Karahi.
But your Fish Karahi (£9.95) does – I said pointing to the other side of the Menu.
Fish is different – he assured me.
Indeed, Fish is different and Fish Karahi is quite a rarity in Scottish Curry Houses. That’s two more visits to Desi Pakwan taken care of.
No Drink was ordered, no Water was forthcoming.
The two chaps departed, two ladies came in, this initially reduced my chances of securing photographic coverage of the layout of this Curry Cafe. There are eight tables which accommodate twenty four diners. The kitchen is open plan. One could not help but be impressed by the Muriel (sic) on the rear wall. Desi Pakwan is closed on Mondays.
Lamb Karahi
The pedigree of this Curry was immediately apparent. The Herb Topping was Minimal in the extreme. Sliced Green Chillies protruded from the Thick Masala. The Masala was Tomato-rich but not necessarily sans Onion.
It was good to see a genuine Naan once again. The teardrop shape was a welcome sight; a Tandoori Naan, light and fluffy with a sufficiency of burnt blisters. The aroma of Pickle was powerful, yet Fresh Coriander was the only visible topping. How the Pickle had been spread across this Naan remained a mystery. The Achari Handi (£9.50) had nearly tempted. Perhaps here I had the best of both worlds, or would the Pickle Flavour dominate as happens in a Garlic Naan?
The first dip of Naan into the Masala confirmed the efficacy of this Karahi. The Spice Level was certainly above – Medium – as had been agreed upon at the time of ordering. As I encountered the sliced Chillies, so the – Kick – was given a further boost. The Meat was Firm but Tender and was easily into double figures. I resorted to eating the Meat alone so as appreciate the Flavours here as intended, then continued dipping the Naan to enjoy the blend of the Masala and Achari. More Seasoning would have been welcomed, however, it would be churlish to criticise this very fine example of a Lamb Karahi. Why do so many venues serve up such poor imitations?
Mein Host was seeing to the ladies then crossed the room to ask the customary question.
Excellent, thank you – was the immediate response.
There is a plethora of Mainstream Curry Houses in the West End of this city which Hector is not in any rush to visit. Punjabi Junction is diagonally across from Desi Pakwan. Edinburgh’s south-side and Leith shall be visited whenever possible, not forgetting Haymarket’s outstanding – Lazeez Tandoori. Four of the six Edinburgh venues reviewed to date have seriously impressed, three are Punjabi, one South Indian.
The Bill
£13.90 £2.95 for the Naan, I ate nearly all of it.
The Aftermath
Mein Host was happy to pose for a photo when I introduced myself. I asked for clarification over the Thursday opening time. Noon was mentioned then 12.30 for serving.
Menu – extracts
