Slovakia, or Slovenska republika to give its formal name, is a new country on Curry-Heute, Marg and Hector did pass through Bratislava en route to Budapest from where Curry was reviewed at the Delhi Darbar back in 2012. We are three nights in Bratislava which should present two Curry Opperchancities. There are a number of Indo-Pak Restaurants to choose from, I had the list narrowed down to three, the Punajbi/Kashmiri venues. This did not stop me at least checking the exteriors and menus of some of the other venues encountered in yesterday’s walkabout. As with Praha, I may post an update covering these separately.
Marg and Hector set off around noon with Punjabi Dhaba (Šancová 92, 831 04 Nové Mesto Bratslava Slovakia) the objective, it was reportedly small and a half hour wait after a twenty five minute walk from the western end of the Old Town was not what Hector had in mind.
On arrival it was found to be derelict and the exterior did not match what was given on Google Maps. Someone is playing silly buggers. There is another Punjabi Dhaba further out of town at Prievozska, a Curry House too far.
Lahore Pakistani & Indian Restaurant (Svätoplukova 49, 821 08 Bratislava Slovakia) was the fallback. It only popped up yesterday and reviews are all recent, Hector was happy to visit a new Bratislava Curry House, who knows, it could be a major find.
Lahore is located in an off-street enclave, easy to miss. It was difficult to tell if it was open from the outside, Marg was ahead, she tried the handle, success. A table near the entrance was occupied by one group, a table in the next room also, in we went. I have seen some simply decorated Curry Houses, this beats everything. The walls were white, new paint-job white. Not one single picture/ornament adorned the walls. I liked this.
The Menu was on the table, I began the photographic ritual. The Waiter came far too soon and was sent away. I had made my own selections by the time he returned, Marg was still deciding.
Hector had three worthy choices: Lamb Rogan Josh (€5.40), Beef Karahi (€5.50) or Fish Curry (€4.50). The weight of the portion was given – 200g. When I cook a Curry, this is the amount of Meat I cook per person before adding Onions, Tomatoes, Oil and any other Interesting Vegetable. So, no Lamb Karahi on offer, but at least I had spotted no mention of the dreaded – Capsicum. I decided on Beef for a change. An Aloo Ghobi (€3.50) and Mix Veg. Pulao (€1.90) would complete Hector’s Order. Or so I thought.
Marg enquired about the Soup (€1.20). She was concerned that it might be too Spicy, and asked as a matter of interest, what Soup it was. Her fear of Spice was allayed, what sounded like – Technico – was given as the description. The Waiter went off to check what the translation might be. Technico – he assured us. OK. Marg asked for Samosa (€1.50) but was told none were available. Veg Pakora (€1.90) was accepted as a substitute.
I showed the Waiter a photo of Capsicum and asked him to ensure that these would not appear. His reply initially led me to believe that they do not use them at Lahore, however, he refined this to something along the lines of: We don’t add Capsicum if the customer doesn’t want them. Surely nobody would? Marg asked for the Soup and Pakora to be brought at the same time as my meal.
No Sparkling Water was available so Hector ordered Fanta, €1.30 for the advertised 500ml can/bottle. Marg went for Mango Lassi (€1.00). It was a 250ml can of Fanta which came, so I was keen to check – The Bill – later. The same quantity of Mango Lassi was good value.
The two groups left, thankfully. Those at the door were getting a bit rowdy for a Wednesday lunchtime, what was in their Water?
Two bowls of Soup were placed on the table followed quickly by the Pakora and Yoghurt. I know the extra Soup could have gone back in the pot, but why miss the Opperchancity?
This Soup was the very definition of – Shorva. It was decidedly – Thin – and was totally lacking in body. The Seasoning and Flavours more than made up for this. After a few spoonfuls I gave up, this would be better enjoyed as a Drink. Hector drank from the bowl, much more rewarding. A few dregs of something or another were sat on the bottom of the bowl when I had finished. Satisfaction was achieved.
Vegetable Pakora
Marg had little choice but to start. Four pieces only, as small a portion of Pakora as I have seen. Cauliflower, Capsicum, Potato, Mushroom and Paneer – said the Menu. Also! There’s the offending Vegetable.
Marg’s comment:
I expected one piece to be Paneer, but I was not aware of it. It was not crispy, more spongy, an OK flavour, but a different texture … (from what she expected).
I would have thought each piece of Pakora would have represented each item on the list. None came my way.
The Waiter brought Hector’s three Dishes together, the Rice was clearly the largest portion, more than I could eat, the Curry and Aloo Ghobi were small in comparison, Tapas portions.
The Rice was arranged on the plate, Peas, slivers of Courgette, Paneer and Cumin Seeds were mixed through. This proved to be an excellent combination, the Cumin would add that extra something Flavour-wise.
Beef Karahi
The Masala was delightfully Dark with Herbs visible in the blended mass. I counted six pieces of Meat, definitely a small portion, but then so was the price.
Aloo Ghobi
Topped with a few Fresh Coriander Leaves, this looked like any Vegetable Side Portion one might order. The Masala was decidedly Shorva, Marg speculated that it could well have been the the Soup served earlier.
Hector had a plateful, it took the two Dishes to achieve this.
Wow! It happens oh too briefly, but this is why Hector persists in trying Curry in what may be the least likely of loci. The Seasoning and hence the Flavours made a huge impact on the Hector palate, this was a truly Sensational Beef Karahi. The Spice was moderate to start but built as I ate. On Friday night at Eastern Eye (Haddington, Scotland) the taste-buds were not working, my Bangladeshi Curry did little for me. Today Hector had his favoured Punjabi Curry, I could have eaten more and more of this. Should I ever return, a double portion might be a good idea, however, the Rogan Josh and the Fish Curry would then be missed out, one of each then.
I actually forgot I was eating Beef today, not Lamb. The Meat was delightfully Tender, cooked in the manner that only an expert Chef can achieve, close to the edge of becoming too soft. The Seasoning was brave, the Masala was truly Rich in Flavour. Was the Herb actually – Methi?
The Textures of the Potato and Cauliflower were ideal. The Cauliflower retained a hint of firmness, the Potatoes were soft. In terms of Flavour this Dish gave little in comparison to what lay adjacent. The Masala, originally at the base of the plate, had now been absorbed into the Rice. My first mouthful gave a blast of Cumin which I then realised had come from the Rice, this made the Aloo Ghobi.
The combination modelled the Curry-Heute Idyll of Meat and Interesting Vegetables. This was one of those too rare moments of synergy, everything on the plate was in harmony, Hector was eating – the Perfect Curry.
The Bill
€17.50 (£15.08) I never get to see the itemised Bill, however, I was charged the 500ml price for the 250ml can of Fanta, naughty.
The Aftermath
Where to begin? Hector was of course in raptures about the Curry when the Waiter came to clear the table. I mentioned my preference for Punjabi Cuisine, the Waiter told me Chef was from Pakistan. We had to meet. I asked how long Lahore had been in operation, – since February 6 – this year was the answer.
Chef came from the kitchen, congratulations were given. He was happy to accept the Calling Card. I told him that as my friends in Scotland come to Bratislava and eat at Lahore, he should remember that Hector was first.
I asked about the walls. It was a conscious decision to keep them bare, simple. I hope this works for them, especially when there is nothing inside or out to let the passer by know what wonderful Curry lies within.
The Chef’s assistant was summoned, Marg got in on the act too. This was a day to remember, and if Punjabi Dhaba had been open, it would never have happened. How often has Hector mentioned – Serendipity.
Lahore – Menu
