The number of venues open mid afternoon north of the river is limited. After the frustration last week in Belgium, of venues not open as published, Hector decided to return to an old faithful: Charcoals Indian Restaurant (26A Renfield St, Glasgow, G2 1LU). I knew I had not been here this year, when I checked and found my last visit was in November 2017, I was left wondering where the time has gone.
Ali, Mein Host, was near the doorway as I entered. He did the double take then shook hands – how have you been, buddy?
Ali was not present in my last couple of visits, so it is certainly years since our last encounter. He led me through to the back, knowing that I prefer to sit there and not be window dressing. As we walked I told him I was just back from Belgium where I have finally found decent Curry after years of eating what could only be described as substandard. Ali was of the opinion that such venues should employ proper Chefs and serve authentic Curry.
The Menu was brought. Main Courses have risen typically by £1.00, Fish Masala had risen by £3.00 to a whopping £14.95. One thing I have observed across Europe is that Fish Curry is rarely more expensive than Meat. With an abundance of Fresh Fish on our doorstep, why we are expected to pay a premium still puzzles.
Adraki Gosht (£10.95) was considered in one of my first visits here, but over the years other dishes have distracted. A medium hot curry of lamb with fresh adrak along with flavour of pyaz – says the menu. Adrak? Ginger. Pyaz? Onion. As always, I asked that no Peppers would appear in my Curry. A Chilli and Coriander Naan (£3.50) completed the food order. A warm glass of Tap Water would be my refreshment.
Ali went up to the kitchen hatch, I heard him relay the Order, I picked up the words – Capsicum – and – Desi-style. He returned after a few minutes with a Poppadom, Salad and what he called – Fish Pakora, all complimentary.
The Poppadom was decidedly different from those one usually encounters. This was well fired and had a dusting of Paprika, or similar. The pot contained a Chickpea Salad topped with a Chilli Sauce. With the Fish, this was quite a Starter.
Ali did say I would call the – Pakora – something else.
Indeed. The four strips of Fish encrusted with Sesame Seeds had clearly been baked. Without batter, this was not – Pakora – per se. Spicy Baked Fish, I love it. The back of Charcoals is dimly lit, so I had no chance in identifying the Fish, or the coating, Whatever, it was delicious, and the Salad added a welcomed Diversity.
It is not only Hector that Ali at Charcoals is famed for feeding. I had to mention that I have seen Ali in various publications, famous for feeding Glasgow’s homeless. He recognises that his business is doing well and he feels he must give something back.
You can’t take it with you – is his humble philosophy.
A waiter brought the Mains. No vegetables on top – added Ali who was nearby.
Chilli and Coriander Naan
This was a delightful Naan, puffy with the required burnt extremities. There was a forest of foliage, plenty of sliced Green Chillies and Coriander leaves. The Naan had been scored to create quarters but was still – whole. That I could forgive. The size was well judged, I would manage to eat every piece of this excellent Naan, no wastage. However, I could question the size vis-a-vis the price.
Adraki Gosht
Fresh Coriander topped a dark, thick, rich Masala. Tomato Seeds were visible in the melange, plus flecks of what I took to be Ginger, though again the dim light prevented me being sure. The Meat was in large pieces and easily into double figures, this was quite a potful.
The Spice was very evident from the start, as was the Seasoning. This Curry has Spice, Seasoning and a very distinctive Flavour. But, there was no – Wow! I have always enjoyed my Curry at Charcoals, but as yet have not experienced anything that would make come more regularly. Glasgow’s Southside is where it’s at.
The Chilli kicked in, the Spice Level went up another notch. The tip of my tongue was asking me questions, why the masochism?
Ali came to check on my progress. I had to praise the Spice and the Seasoning and got my dig in about Chefs who are diffident when it comes to adding the Seasoning. Ali was in agreement.
Then there was the Meat. The first couple of pieces had me marvelling at the Quality, I had nothing like this served to me in Belgium last week. Welcome back to Scottish Lamb. The next few pieces had me wondering, this was close to the chewy-gristly experience of Gent and Brussel. Then again the Meat was excellent. Finally, the last piece was bewildering – Horse! – was my note on the quality of the Meat. The last piece was so chewy it was beyond belief. Methinks the Lamb Pot had recently been topped up with Fresh Meat that was not as well cooked as what was already in, else this was a mixture of Lamb and Mutton. So it goes.
The Bill
£14.45 I think I had my money’s worth.
The Aftermath
It is years since I took a photo of Ali, Chef was summoned to take the photo. Inevitably there was photo of Chef and Ali. I promised not to wait another twenty two months to return.
As I walked towards Sauchiehall St., I marvelled at how the Flavours of the Adraki Gosht lingered on the palate. This appears to be a feature of late. Mmmm.