I know that many people in Glasgow’s Asian community hold Kebabish Grill (323–325 Victoria Road, Glasgow, G42 7SA) in the highest regard. Whilst having enjoyed my previous visits, I felt their Curry lacked the – Wow! – factor to have me visit regularly. I was invited, twice, to their re-opening night earlier this year after the fire of 2017 closed the premises for over a year. I was abroad for the first scheduled evening which was postponed. The invitation for the second date was not found until too late, so it goes.
It was Dr. Stan who instigated today’s Curry to appease The Man from Bradford who is his house guest. In the end The Rickmeister didn’t show. The arranged time was 15.30, I arrived a few minutes before and had time to study the Menu in detail. The prices were the first thing I noted, ambitious, but Kebabish Grill is a restaurant unlike the Curry Cafes off Victoria Rd. I had glanced at the Takeaway Menu as I entered, the Takeaway prices were £2.00 less for main courses. In the Main Menu, prices have gone up by typically £3.00 for a main course since I was last here in 2016.
Previously I have described how customers at Kebabish Grill were sat in a cluster, today the pattern was linear. We were all sat along the edge of the raised seating area, though one window table was allocated not long before our departure. In terms of décor, the premises have been restored, I could see little difference from what was before other than booth seating along the window.
The Menu features – Old School / Traditional Dishes. Hector was more interested in the Chef’s Specials. Here were many favourites including Desi Karahi Gosht (on the bone) at a whopping £12.95. Above this was Namkeen Gosht (£12.95), I wondered if this had to be ordered in advance as is the case in the handful of Glasgow venues which offer this Afghani Curry. As soon as Dr. Stan picked up the Menu, his first utterance captured the moment:
Quite expensive.
Dr. Stan’s selection today was Methi Gosht (£11.95) accompanied by a Garlic Roti (£2.25). Had Ricky turned up, he would have had a lot to say about the price of Bread. For Hector, a Chilli Nan (£3.50), I was not going to risk being charged more for having Coriander added. The Waiter confirmed that the Namkeen Karahi was readily available, this is a first in Glasgow. Had it not been, Indian Mixed Vegetables (£8.95) may well have been my choice today. I was impressed at seeing Methi and Karela featuring prominently in certain Dishes.
Tap water was asked for, this was presented in a flashy bottle. We would drink from crystal glasses, very pukka. The Waiter brought an elaborate Salad and two Dips. He then asked if we wished Spiced Onions and Poppadoms. These were declined. At these prices they should surely have been provided. If they were complimentary, then he should have said so. Stan tackled the Salad, Hector is off Salad this week.
During our wait, I saw two Naans covered with a mass of I don’t know what, being taken back to the kitchen. The Hector wished that one could go and investigate what the problem was.
The Bread
The Garlic Roti was unlike anything I have encountered. Large, Wet and Puffy, one would most certainly be enough. This Roti would surely not turn to – crisp. The Chilli Nan was certainly more than I could ever eat. It too was puffy/fluffy. The interior was a mass of evenly spread Green Chillies. Red Chilli flakes had been sprinkled on top. I wasn’t going to miss my blast of Coriander, this was an excellent Naan.
Methi Gosht
The Waiter placed this in front of me, I had time to observe the Dark, Thick and very Rich looking Masala before sliding it across the table to Dr. Stan.
Quite a lot of meat – confirmed Dr. Stan. The price was starting to look justified.
I enjoyed it, good solid spiciness, plenty of Methi, tender meat, probably worth the price – were Dr. Stan’s eloquent words for today. I like when he humours me.
Namkeen Gosht
Coriander Leaves topped the palest of Curry. Namkeen is unlike any other Curry, nothing – Red – goes in, typically just Salt, Pepper and Chillies. Shorva-esque – was my first observation, the Masala did look to be quite – Thin – at the start, this I had to revise as I got into the Curry. The abundant Meat was served in large Chunks and was on-the-bone. This had the makings of – quite a Curry.
One has to adjust the palate when having Namkeen, it is Curry, but nothing like the traditional fayre of the Indian subcontinent. The Lamb had been slow cooked to perfection. This was beyond tender but far from pulp. Dipping the Naan into the Masala presented a series of joyful moments, the Chillies added more Spice to that which was already in the Curry. The Flavours were spot on, this was as good a Namkeen Karahi as I have experienced.
The pieces of Meat were too large to pick up, I had to break the flesh off with the spoon. There was a lot of it, this portion certainly justified the price. The bones and cartilage were set aside. As I got deeper into the Dish so the Masala became visibly Thicker, more Peppery even, with Tomato Seeds to the fore. Whole cloves of Garlic and Large Green Chillies were buried in there. I kept the – sucky bone – to the end. When I got up this morning I had no idea that I would be eating Namkeen, this was a very pleasant surprise. Chef should be proud of this creation.
The Bill
£30.65 Not too silly, but around the corner at Yadgar we could have had this and Starters for the same price, but no crystal glasses.
The Aftermath
This was only my third visit to Kebabish Grill in the time of Curry-Heute. I introduced myself to Mein Host, praised the food, then set about taking photos of the restaurant. As we were preparing to leave I became aware that the chap sitting at the window needed a napkin, Hector-the-provider was on the case. This gave the opperchancity to study his Peshwari Naan (£3.50) which was covered in a mass of Nuts. Marg would love this. She certainly appreciated the ambience when she was here three years ago. I think I have been sold on Kebabish Grill. When – The Carnoustie Two – next visit, this will have to be the venue.
Menu extracts
