Hector and Marg are in Manchester for one night en route to, well wait and see. Plusbus – tickets were arranged at the time of purchasing our rail tickets to facilitate the journey up Cheetham Hill Road to Dera (433 Cheetham Hill Rd, Manchester, M8 OPF). Dera has consistently proved to be the source of the most outstanding Curry in Manchester. Dera are in a league of their own, well above the Fast-food Curry Cafes of the Northern Quarter, and the Mainstream Curry Houses which prevail across the city, including the so called – Curry Mile – in Rusholme.
There’s no need to take Hector’s word for it, Rizwan, Mein Host at Kabana (22 Back Turner St., Northern Quarter, Manchester M4 1LQ England) confirmed that statement this very evening. After a late afternoon coffee, Marg and Hector were able to drop by Kabana at 17.30, just as Rizwan was closing up. This was the first time he appreciated who Marg is, as her visits are fewer, and she tends to only have Samosas at lunchtime when Hector is indulging himself. Rizwan confirmed that Dera serves something special in comparison to his own fayre. However I reminded him that the quality of Curry served at Kabana has been getting better and better on every visit in the last two years. Rizwan puts this down to sourcing- Lamb Shoulder. Rizwan took the opperchancity to tell Marg what he has been telling me in our post meal chats – that customers are flocking to Kabana having read the reviews on Curry-Heute. Rizwan would also like to do a tour of the Curry Houses around the country (and beyond?) which Hector recommends. Respect.
We discussed what appears to be a new – Curry Mile – developing in the north of Manchester stretching from Ancoats up Cheetham Hill Road. Rizwan agreed that the original – Curry Mile – has so few Curry Houses compared to years gone by. An imbalance in favour of – Grill Houses – serving Kebap and not Curry has evolved in Rusholme. In the new axis, there is a cluster of Curry Cafes, including a second Kabana on Cheetham Hill Rd beside the well established Bukhara. Adjacent to Kabana #2 is a Persian Restaurant – Darbar – which also has yet to be visited, plus the three more venues across the road which have been reviewed on Curry-Heute.
Arriving at Dera @19.30, it was Marg’s turn to ride the tractor. One isn’t meant to, but why else is it there? How was your journey, my friend? – was the greeting by the Manager at Dera. Visits here may only average a couple of times a year, but unless it is a young waiter who serves, Hector is always recognised.
It has been some time since we sat in the main dining room, recent visits have meant sitting in the small room to the left on entry. Only three other tables were occupied on this quiet Monday evening.
What sort of menu is this? – remarked Marg on seeing the layout with numbers following the name of each Dish.
The Menu had not fundamentally changed since my last visit, the half kilo portions of Karahi were still available at acceptable prices. Eventually I realised that the added numbers referred to – food allergies – as outlined in the key. Tonight Hector would have Zaitoon Lamb Karahi (£13.95), Olive Oil would be used in its preparation.
The – 6 – referred to – Dairy. This acknowledges the dessert spoon of Yoghurt which gets added just before serving. Having spotted Garlic Naan (£1.95) as the only alternative to Plain, I asked for – no Garlic, but Chilli and Coriander instead. This was acceptable though Mein Host did insist that Marg have some of this.
Having missed out on Lamb Chops in our recent outings, Marg opted for these. Grilled Chops (£6.95) would come as a portion of four. On the front of the new Menu under – While you wait – is – Poppadom (2pcs) with chutney tray – (£1.95). Marg ordered these also and asked that her Grilled Chops be served at the same time as my Karahi.
Mein Host brought a Salad and two Dips – Tamarind and Raita. Mein Host explained that Tamarind is a worthy accompaniment with Fish. I declared that I wished I could be here for two days and enjoy the Masala Fish Boneless (£8.95). Perhaps on my planned return in January I may remember to try this.
Four Poppadoms arrived, Marg sent two back knowing that I would not necessarily be interested. These were accompanied by Spiced Onions and Mango Chutney. I did sample the Spiced Onions with a piece of Poppadom. The Onions were very Fresh and indeed Spicy, the Poppadoms were Limp, Stale almost. The Bottle of Tap Water which had been brought was also tepid, dubious, I should have bought Sparkling Water.
Mein Host announced that the Grilled Chops would arrive before the Lamb Karahi. He may have given a reason, this was not understood. When eight Lamb Chops were presented I got the drift. Given the saga of Lamb Chops in our recent visits to Akbar’s (Glasgow), it was quite ironic that Hector would have no choice but to help Marg out. I would limit myself to two, Marg would have six Lamb Chops!
Grilled Chops
The long bones made the Meat element of the Lamb Chops appear to be – small. In fact these Lamb Chops were smaller and thinner than the standard. They were excellent, the Spice and Seasoning were all one could hope for. The Charcoal was full on, I ate one as served, then another with Raita as Marg was enthusing about this combination:
Well it’s lovely, and the mint sauce goes perfectly with a bit of mango.
Marg ate six Lamb Chops, what had Hector done? This was her main course, Marg presently accepts it’s either Chops or Curry.
Chilli and Coriander Naan
The – foliage – had been cooked in. Some perforations were visible, enough to stop the Bread rising, a step towards – Rogni Naan. It’s a Manchester thing. The Naan had been halved which is always a source of frustration, why cut up Bread? The overall size was sensible, one could eat just about all of this Naan, so very little wastage.
Zaitoon Lamb Karahi
Topped with Chilli and Coriander, I counted fifteen pieces of Meat and could see three big bones. The Masala looked so inviting, no surface Oil was visible. This truly was a Lamb Karahi – a cut above the rest.
Hector knew why he was here. The most Tender of Lamb complemented the most Flavoursome Masala, every mouthful would be a joy. I had wondered if Olives would be visible, but then concluded the – Zaitoon – element was simply the Oil, which still was not gathering. Marg had to assist:
There’s a tanginess to it.
That had not registered on my palate, we all react differently.
The Masala was delightfully – Thick – the Spice Level never became silly, even when the Chillies from both Curry and Naan kicked in. The Coriander did its job, every mouthful of this Lamb Karahi was a joy. The Lamb was Tender, but still required some chewing. As I studied the Masala so I could see the Tomato Seeds in the base and sensed the presence of Meat Pulp. This had everything. The three big bones were finally tackled. The taste of Lamb from each of these was outstanding. At the end I had to photograph the remnants, justice had been done to this meal.
The Bill
£30.75 The Naan had been billed as Rogni, and we were charged for both portions of Grilled Chops having only asked for one.
The Aftermath
Another family were at the counter as we departed, so farewells were brief. If one is in Manchester, one simply has to try – Dera.