Hector is back in Berlin, the third time this year and another opperchancity to extend the coverage of Curry-Heute. Swera in Kreuzberg has consistently been the most impressive Berlin Curry House found to date. Today I looked at the list of possibilities, Dezi Indisches Restaurant Berlin (Pasteurstraße 18, 10407 Berlin Deutschland) was two stops from the Ibis Budget near Alexanderplatz, convenient. However, the choice came down to the name – Dezi – how could Hector ignore the possibility of finding true – Desi Curry – in Berlin?
Setting off at noon, Jonathan said he would join me. This meant a twenty minute wait in the restaurant during which time I studied the Menu and enjoyed some Fanta (€3.10). Bhuna Gosht (€10.70) looked to be the best option in the Lamm section, with included Basmati, a decent price.
When Jonathan arrived he found Lamm Karhai (13.30) in another section. The given description meant I would have to give my usual caveat. Jonathan would play safe and chose Namaste Mixed Tikka (€14.90. More Fanta was ordered. The waitress accepted the Order for – Lamm Karhai ohne Paprika.
Three well fired Poppadoms, no Dips, had sat on the table since moments after my arrival, time to begin. With embedded Cumin Seeds, tasty, so much better than the plain variety served in the UK. A Tamarind Dip would have been a welcomed accompaniment.
A traditional German Side Salad – to share – accompanied a mass of Rice. If we were to have – foliage – then perhaps Chef could have studied that served in the Manchester Curry Cafes. This was tame. Having taken a plateful each, we were still left with enough Basmati for two more diners. The waitress said we could have more Rice if we needed it. Just how much Rice did they think would could eat?
Lamm Karhai
The aroma was pleasing. The standard Toppings of Ginger Strips and Coriander Leaves were decidedly minimal, no Chillies. The Masala had a decent viscosity and was rich in strips of cooked Onions. Had the dreaded Green Peppers not been withheld, this could have been a nightmare.
We have Seasoning – I announced, a good initial impression.
We have Spice – cough.
We have Onions – indeed, and probably too many.
The Meat was into double figures, each piece was appreciably larger than the norm. With the abundant Rice, this was quite a plateful. Well Seasoned and Spicy, the Flavours in this Curry emerged from the off. All was going well until I sampled the Meat. OK, the Meat was Tender and tasted – Meaty – however that was it. Presumably, the Lamm had been cooked in a separate pot, it had very recently met the worthy Masala. The Meat was adding nothing in terms of Spice, it became quite tiresome, uninteresting. This was simply Meat and Onions in a decent Masala, not the blend of Herbs and Spices that makes what I look for in a Curry, and as far as – Desi – goes, really? This was not a Curry commensurate with home-cooking.
Namaste Mixed Tikka
Served on a German flat pan, the waitress warned Jonathan more than once that he should not touch the very hot handle. A very – Red – Chilli Sauce smothered a mass of Onion Blobs, and Capsicum! As this was not a Curry per se, then the Green Peppers might actually have been tolerable.
The Meat was buried under the blanket of Vegetables, there was a lot of it. Chicken Tikka and Lamb Tikka appeared to dominate. At one point I watched Jonathan decant a quarter Chicken to his plate. With the Meat removed, the Vegetable coverage on the base of the pan was revealed. More Onions and Capsicum, Jonathan added Tomato and Garlic to my notes, plus Paneer which I had not spotted. Quite a feast, but too many Vegetables, Jonathan abandoned the bottom layer.
Jonathan assured me that all of the Meat was good, but that the Sauce didn’t connect. I didn’t sample any, however, if I had correctly observed the Red Chilli Sauce, then this can be too sickly sweet.
Two markedly different Dishes, we both found that the Meat and Masala did not complement each other, but from opposite perspectives. Desi – this was not.
The Bill
€40.60 (£34.12) Four 0.4l glasses of Fanta in all. Sterling has gained a few cents against the Euro in recent weeks.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given, I gave my usual spiel. When asked for my verdict I had to express the view that the Meat and Masala were strangers.
A disappointment.
Menu extracts
