In the past month, Hector’s Curry intake has been quite diverse: Soupy Curry and Creamy Curry have appeared and have been enjoyed, even – Chicken Curry! – though I am still trying to get over the shocking Fisch Jalferezi served in Oranienburg (Deutschland).
2019 was planned to be the year in which the Curry-Heute coverage of Edinburgh Curry was expanded. In February, Hector took himself to the limits of Leith to visit the impressive Desi Pakwan (61 Leith Walk, Edinburgh EH6 8LS). In April, Mr. Snax put Rustom House on the radar. The Company almost moved in there over the following weeks, then that was it, Edinburgh Curry no more, until today.
Hector had unfinished business at Desi Pakwan. The Desi Lamb Karahi (£12.50) sold by the half kilo, and taking a reported forty five minutes to prepare, was today’s objective. Arriving at a safe 14.15, the premises were empty apart from Chef who cooked for me last time when I had the standard Lamb Karahi (£9.95). He invited to me to take a Menu and choose my table. For once, Hector chose to be – window dressing.
The Achari Naan (£2.95) worked well last time, Achari Naan! This time, Achari Paratha (£3.25) would accompany. A Paratha costs more than a Naan? More labour intensive, if prepared properly.
I went up to the counter separating the dining area from the open kitchen to give the Order. Chef warned me it would take half an hour, I was prepared for this. I once again checked that no Capsicum would find its way into the Karahi, this provoked the right reaction. Chef assured me:
No, no, I don’t put Capsicum, different system.
So, how does one amuse oneself for thirty minutes in an empty Curry House? By studying the Menu in detail and planning what to have in future visits, assuming today’s Desi Lamb Karahi wouldn’t do a – Rustom Restaurant – and hook the Hector.
North Indian Bhuna (£9.75) features – Bullet Chillies and Methi – Mmmm. Tawa Chanp (£10.95) features Lamb Chops and Julienne Peppers, lose the Peppers. Kofta Kebabi Handi (£8.95) should be Meatballs in a Masala of Chef’s choosing, similarly the Lamb Handi (£9.95). Grilled Lamb Chop Balti (£11.95), so not Desi Lamb Chop Karahi as served so magnificently at Yadgar (Glasgow) but presumably worth a try. I noted with interest that six Lamb Chops are available – Sizzling Lamb Chops (£11.95) – at a very competitive price. Salivating yet?
All of these could have me back soon, however, one more Dish stood out – Kharra Masala Stew (£9.95). Hopefully – Kharra – is being used as it has appeared periodically in Curry-Heute with reference to – Seasoning – and does not refer to the village in Maharashta (India).
So many quality choices, the people of Leith are fortunate to have this on their doorstep. Actually, it’s only ten minutes on the bus from Waverley. How many project venues can Hector run simultaneously?
I returned from checking the Facilities, hand dryer out of order, to find my meal waiting. A glass of tap water accompanied, thank you, I had no liquid accompaniment last time. Where is the fridge for drinks? How have I missed this? It was 14.35, the Desi Lamb Karahi had taken only ten minutes longer to prepare than my Lamb Karahi.
The Paratha was a good size, most certainly thicker than the norm. The layering was present, it was soft, which is why I had not ordered the Lachi Paratha (£2.50) which was described as – crispy. The – swirl – was evident, I liked the Herb topping also. It was a pity the flour was – wholemeal. Tanjore – South Indian Restaurant – serve my favouritist (sic) Paratha in Edinburgh.
Desi Lamb Karahi
Visually, there was no difference between this and the standard Lamb Karahi enjoyed here last February, though the quantity was appreciable larger. A half kilo, the perfect amount when served – on-the-bone. The absence of Oil on the periphery of the mass of Masala impressed, as did the thickness of the Masala. The colour looked natural, again the horror story that was Oranienburg may have scarred Hector.
Why did I order the Achari Paratha? I knew at once that this was not appropriate, the Flavours from the Desi Karahi were going to be drowned by – Pickle. I had to work hard to avoid this. Setting the Paratha aside, I concentrated on tasting the Masala. The Seasoning was below what I hope for, so not – Kharra! The sliced large Green Chillies provided a worthy – Kick. The Meat was delightfully – Tender – and far from pulp, I congratulate Chef for getting the Lamb spot on. The Masala looked – Authentic Desi. The Masala was Tomato-rich but not necessarily sans Onion – is what I wrote last time re the Lamb Karahi, this was pretty much the same. Indeed, I was trying to establish how this differed from the – Standard Karahi. I tackled some of the Meat on-the-bone, here was the difference. I left the – sucky bone – to the end, the bone marrow adds so much. Mmmm.
Back to the Paratha, I ate nearly all of it. The – Achari – element did obscure some of the Desi Flavour, then nature intervened. The Oil finally separated from the Masala, time to dip some Bread … the intensity of Flavour in the Oil complemented the Achari, success.
A chap came in and chatted with Chef in the open kitchen, clearly Mein Host. He looked over and asked the customary question with a fine example of minimalism:
Good?
I nodded as I ate on. This Desi Lamb Karahi was indeed – Good. I would have it again, and without Achari Bread. Today the – wow! – was not present. More Seasoning and who knows – Kharra?
The Bill
£15.75 A very competitive price for the half kilo.
The Aftermath
I engaged with Mein Host, Afan, and introduced Curry-Heute – which will have been ten years in operation three months from today. We chatted about Curry, my favourite part of hosting Curry-Heute. Afan confirmed the Masala had a – Fresh Tomato – base with some Onions and tested my appreciation that this was way better than the standard blended Masala of the Mainstream Curry House.
Desi Pakwan has been in operation for some five years. Afan claimed that he was the first in Scotland to served Karahi on-the-bone and by the kilo. Perhaps in the east, however, Yadgar (Glasgow) have been serving this from a time pre Curry-Heute. PCH, a new calendar?
Opening times have been an issue since my first attempt at Currying here. If memory serves correctly, he said Desi Pakwan is open from noon Monday to Thursday, and from 14.00 at weekends. Having noted the Desi Breakfast (£4.00) served on Saturdays and Sundays from 09.30, there had to be exceptions to the stated opening times. The Desi Breakfast is an occasional feature, running for a few weeks at a time. Hector cannot see himself in Edinburgh that early, unless…
Lazeez Tandoori and Kebab Mahal are the two other Punjabi Curry Houses in Edinburgh that I have found to date. In terms of ambiance, Desi Pakwan wins hand down. So many dishes here yet to sample, if Chef were to have the Seasoning tuned to the Hector palate, the – Wow! – would surely come.
Menu extracts
