Pir Mahal Cafe (199 Albert Drive, Glasgow G42 2NB) only showed on the Curry-Heute radar yesterday when a banner was spotted at the junction of Calder Street and Pollokshaws Rd. Pir Mahal is a Desi Curry Cafe of the type that Hector celebrates with much enthusiasm. As sources tell me that the long term future of – Indian Restaurants – is in doubt, then surely this is the way to go?
Arriving at Albert Drive just before 15.00, I was surprised to find the road closed halfway along. Lahore Kebab House was also closed, refurbishment is underway and the premises will reopen as Al Aqsa’s – The Peri Experts. Does this mean no more Curry? When I last visited Lahore Kebab House two years ago, Mein Host intimated that he planned to retire. It appears he has, so the opening of Pir Mahal Cafe may be well timed.
Entering Pir Mahal, the premises were empty except for the two staff: Sina assisted by his lovely assistant – Siema. Yes, Hector names the staff from the start, it felt appropriate to introduce myself and the Curry-Heute website. I handed Sina a – Calling Card – he said he would give it to his boss.
By now I had worked out why Albert Drive was closed. The corner of the block opposite Pir Mahal has gone, another major Glasgow fire. Hector was in Wien on November 11th so this had not registered. This was around the time that Pir Mahal opened for business so not such good timing. I also mentioned the closure of Lahore Kebab House. Siema told me that that the former proprietor now visits Pir Mahal Cafe. A lovely guy, I hope we meet again.
The Breakfast Menu was on display, available all day from 10.00, though 08.00 was also mooted. In addition to some Punjabi standards, Full English Breakfast (£5.95) and filled Rolls are available. All things being equal, Hector is unlikely to find himself in Glasgow’s Southside this early.
With no Main Menu visible and no display boards, I deduced my choices were limited to the Dishes on display. The Masala in the Chicken Curry almost looked tempting, calm. Behind it lay Lamb on-the-bone, here we go again.
If I was going to properly judge Pir Mahal, I had to have the Gosht. Hector needed Interesting Vegetables to accompany. A seductively – Dry – Keema Mutter Aloo sat beside the Chicken Curry, I asked about what lay beyond. Aloo Mutter, and as with the Gosht, it was sitting in a lake of Shorva. So it goes. I asked for a portion of the Gosht and a side of Aloo Mutter. Sina spooned out the portions and took them away to be reheated. Siema enquired about what should accompany. With Rice planned for part of this evening’s dinner, I thought I had better stick to Bread. A Paratha (£1.50) was ordered. Siema suggested an Aloo Paratha (£3.50), I would stick to Plain. I asked Sina if – white flour – was possible. Alas, only – wholemeal.
I took a seat at the line of tables along the window. Siema brought a modest Salad and some Dips which, in the end, I never got around to sampling. No sooner had I finished photographing the layout, when another chap entered, this was Mein Host, Sunny.
Both Sina and Siema drew our attention to each other. Introductions over, Sunny explained the seating which is quite innovative. The low marble tables and settees are to make the place look like one’s living room. I recall the difficulty in eating when I first encountered this at PIND Restaurant (Bradford) last August.
Sunny’s sister-in-law, who resides with his mother, is the source of the recipes for the Desi Curry. They are proud that what is served at Pir Mahal is exactly what is eaten at home. And so Siema brought the food.
The Paratha Police were certainly called this afternoon. The Wholemeal Paratha had a melted butter sheen and was served in quarters, Hector prefers his Bread – whole. This was a decidedly – thin – Paratha, layering was minimal, it was too late to establish if there had been a – swirl. Criticisms aside, it was quite enjoyable and being a sensible size, I ate the lot. However, as I was about to discover, I should have ordered – Rice.
Lamb Curry on-the-bone
A sprinkling of sliced Green Chillies and Fresh Coriander topped the Shorva. Shorva may well be the antithesis of my preferred Bhuna-style – Karahi – but when one knowingly orders it, then that is how it is. With two bowls of Curry, it made sense to decant.
I put six pieces of Meat on the plate and enough Shorva to cover it, this left perhaps the same amount of Meat behind and a mass of – Soup. I would use the spoon throughout.
The Seasoning was there, the Spice level took me by surprise, it was only near the end I rediscovered the sliced Green Chillies, a decent – Kick – indeed. The Lamb was delightfully – soft – and the Seasoning in the Meat oozed with the so familiar Flavours of Desi Curry. This was Meat which was not a stranger to the Masala as is so often the case in Mainstream Curry Houses. Scooping the Shorva with the Paratha proved pointless, I resorted to dipping and supping.
Aloo Mutter
Again, sliced Green Chillies and Fresh Coriander topped the Shorva.
Splash! – clean trousers tomorrow then. Once more I decanted to create a plateful with Meat on one side and Veg on the other.
I expected the Shorva to taste the same as with the Gosht, how wrong could I be? The Flavour from the Peas had permeated throughout the Shorva, a first time experience. I sampled the Potato, – Wow! The Potato had taken in the compound Flavours from the Pea Soup, this was a real treat. Who needs Meat? I had stumbled upon a perfect match for – just another plate of Meat Curry. I needed the change, this worked well.
Before her departure, Siema had asked that all was well. Her presence will make Pir Mahal stand out from many Desi Curry Cafes where such customer care and service simply does not exist.
As I reached the end of my Curry eating, so Sunny brought some Keer (sorry, I stand corrected – Russ Malai) to the table:
If you eat your dinner, you can have…
This Punjabi milk-based Dessert is made locally by a lady and is freshly prepared every two days. The Russ Malai was cool, light and refreshing.
Hector eats Dessert? Don’t tell Shkoor (Yadgar).
It is customary to pay – The Bill – at this point. Such was the conversation that ensued, Hector nearly forgot.
The Bill
£10.00 A round figure.
The Aftermath
… the conversation continued. Sunny sounds local but hails from Dudley. I admitted to having little knowledge/coverage of the Birmingham area. Manchester was another matter. The cluster of Curry Cafes on Cheetham Hill Rd. was discussed. Chappati Corner and Lahori Badsha which I visited last week are well known to Sunny. Bradford was up next, I had to recommend the Handi Gosht (advance notice required) at Sarina’s (Queensbury), this was duly noted.
*
Food beyond Curry was discussed. Hector has long been amused by the Glasgow Asian community’s love of Pizza. Often Hector is to be seen tucking into kilos of Karahi Gosht whilst at adjacent tables, the locals are tucking into this supposedly – Italian – creation. Don’t start me or I’ll have to start a new Blog entitled – Can Italians make Pizza? At Pir Mahal, 12” Pizza is available for £4.50 which makes a mockery of the prices charged by the big chains. As far as the Asian love for this Cheesy Bread is concerned, it’s a case of what they don’t get at home. And this comes days after Hector’s first full on encounter of Cheese Naan at delhi2go (Manchester).
I asked about the name – Pir Mahal – expecting it to be a palace in Pakistan. It is in fact a city in the very heart of Punjab. I was told that people from this locus are reuniting at this venue having lost contact with each other over the years. A case of – Sunny has built it and they will come.
The fire has been a setback. Further plans for Pir Mahal were revealed. The printed Menu is due soon. Sunny hopes to have the largest display of ready Curry on display – in Scotland – as he put it. He has lost out on passing trade, his banners hopefully will attract more than Hector. Sunny then mentioned his other shop in Gallowgate.
Gallowgate? There is a dearth of Curry venues in Glasgow’s East End, sit-in in particular. I asked where:
Hector was there last March at the end of a very long day. Attempts to actually return for their – Staff Curry – have been thwarted by them not opening as early I was led to believe. I did get some photographic coverage of the other shop. I thought Sunny seemed familiar, he thought he had recognised me, now we knew why.
Before departing I once again surveyed the fayre on offer. On the far right of the display was another Vegetable offering. This was – Aloo Gobi – and Hector was not leaving without some. Tomorrow’s lunch is taken care of, another review to follow, or maybe not. Even Hector deserves a day off.
Another fire at Albert Cross and Lockdown, Pir Mahal has gone.
Happy to see you enjoying a shorba. It is the ultimate art in Desi cooking.
By the way the dessert is “russ malai”, not kheer.
I love them both.
Hector replies:
Hi, Ahmed, long time no see/hear.
I stand corrected and will adjust accordingly.
My next post should feature my very own attempt at making this soupiest of Masalas in – Kofta Anda.