Just off Praca de Figueira, the bus terminus in the heart of Lisbon, lies a Curry House one is simply never going to stumble across. This venue is for the cognoscenti, or for those with – word of mouth – connections.
It was Glasgow’s own – Methi Freak – who made Hector aware of the existence of Caxemira – Conzinha Indiana (Rua dos Condes de Monsanto 4, 1º Dt. º-1100 – Lisboa Portugal) two days ago, just as a memorable Curry at nearby – Taste of Punjab – was about to be served. That it was originally reported as Kebab Mahal actually helped. Those modest premises were easily located, with the promise of – Lamb Korai – on offer there, and worthy of investigation before the clarification.
Caxemira is one floor up, directly above Kebab Mahal. The entrance is to the left as one looks from across the street. There is no signage, no clue, one either knows it is there, or Caxemira is never discovered.
Climbing the stairs, just the one flight, and entering the Restaurant, the layout and ambience immediately brought – The India Club (Hotel Strand Continental) to mind. If one has not – done the Strand – adjacent to London’s Indian Embassy, then one has not tasted that which differentiates – Indian Curry – from the rest. Caxemira – the city, is located in that part of India which actually lies beyond Bangladesh – the extreme east. Having enjoyed Punjabi Fayre at – Taste of Pakistan – and – Taste of Punjab – on previous days, an – Indian Curry – would be a change.
Five diners were already in situ, it was just after noon. We counted seats for 41 diners. Three staff stood in what one might take for an – open kitchen. The kitchen was actually behind this. I saw Chefs, various, pop in and out during our visit. The front of house chaps each had their own demarcation. The youngest brought the Menu, he became our host. His English was excellent, as was his attitude, tolerance, service, throughout our visit. He did watch as Hector mode was adopted (another one) and the Menu was photographed before choosing and ordering were even considered.
The Menu was not – overlong. Starters were few, Marg announced she was having Butter Chicken (€12.00), just like that. The Menu did claim this was a – Chef recommendation. Little did they know that the lover of Glasgow’s finest Butter Chicken (so Marg tells me) would be present here today.
For Hector it had to be Karai Gosh (€11.50), again. As Marg was having Curry, this meant we could share Rice and Bread. Vegetable Biryani (€9.50) did not tempt today, instead, Jeera Rice (€3.50) would suffice. Why I didn’t stick to my own system and order a plain Naan (€1.75), who knows? Garlic Naan (€2.50) it would be. Two 25cl bottles of Sparkling Water (€1.50) would complete the Order, or so we thought.
I asked the Waiter if Capsicum could be withheld from the Karahi. This was not a problem. He then listed other ingredients, possibly to make sure I was not allergic. All was well. He then asked if we wished to try their Chicken Samosas to start? Why not? Had Marg spotted – Samosa – on the Menu she would not have had Curry. Samosas were there, but in Portuguese – Chamuca.
The Waiter showed great patience as everything was photographed. I suppose others may photograph their meal, but pages from the Menu can appear to be too keen. I almost explained my purpose but decided to wait until the end.
The Samosas were brought almost in an instant. Thankfully they were small.
A bit like Haggis – was Marg’s take before I had started. The Samosa was packed with ground Chicken and Spice. Full of Flavour and a big – kick. Cloves were a part of the after-taste. We agreed that the Samosas were indeed worth trying.
As we waited, so Caxemira began to fill. A couple were sat at the end of our table setting for six, this would be repeated elsewhere in the room. By the time we finished our meal, people were actually waiting in the doorway for a table. They did not squeeze people into every available spot, people’s space was respected. The wait for our food felt appropriate, we were glad we had arrived before the rush.
The Jeera Rice was more than enough for two, a few grains were left at the end. The Garlic Naan was served in quarters. This had a decent covering of Garlic, but more importantly, had the burnt blisters which gave it authenticity.
*
Butter Chicken
A classic yellow Masala appeared to have a dollop of Cream added at the point of serving. Marg then identified this as a knob of Butter. I would take the sprinkled Spice to be Garam Masala. Marg’s favourite Curry, and definitely not in the Hector style.
Buttery, creamy, lovely – began Marg – very small pieces of Chicken.
This was a positive explained Marg … not the big white chunks.
It didn’t have the kick of Mother India’s Cafe (Glasgow).
*
Karai Gosh
The Waiter warned me not to touch the very hot karahi. The Curry sizzled as he placed it on the table. This would be the hottest food I have been served this week. Fresh Coriander had been sprinkled on top, no Ginger Strips today.
I arranged the six large pieces of Meat on the Rice. The Masala looked Thick, suitably authentic, a real Masala in a potentially real Curry. My third Karahi Gosht of the trip and each one has looked the part, no Euro Curry here.
I dipped a piece of Garlic Naan in the Masala I had left in the karahi. Garlic! This is why I do not normally order this Bread with this covering. I wonder if they would have done a Chilli and Coriander Naan? Back to the main plate.
Here was another wonderfully old fashioned tasting – Indian Curry. This was quite a departure from the usual Glasgow/Bradford/Manchester interpretations. The – Earthy Flavours – took me back in time, not quite to the 1960s and the Green Gates (Glasgow). This Curry was mellow, the Spice Level was no more than moderate, the Seasoning probably masked by the Garlic in the Naan. I had Garlic Prawns for lunch yesterday – not Curry! The Olive Oil was so well Seasoned with Garlic and Salt I had to declare them the best ever. Today, I was eventually able to cope with the Garlic, the Naan was not to the detriment of the Curry.
The Cumin Seeds kicked in, these added a further diversity of Flavour to the Masala. I noted how little Oil had collected on the base of the karahi. The Meat had to be halved, the portion was therefore more than adequate. This was – giving – Meat, an integral part of the Curry flavour wise, not a last minute add-in.
I dipped more Naan, another great Curry moment.
As I looked to my left, so the couple received their Prawn Curry, they both had ordered the same. Here lay Prawns swimming in a yellow Soupy Masala, possibly a Korma? They were locals and come here often. The lady was pleased that we had enjoyed our Curry. I hope they enjoyed theirs. Prawn Curry, don’t start me.
The Bill
€34.90 (£29.64) One Chamuca – Chicken Samosa (€1.20)
The Aftermath
I gave the Calling Card to our so patient Waiter. Introductions were brief, the place was stowed, he had work to do.
Steve and Louise came here later this evening and had Karai Gosh and Rogan Josh respectively. Excellent – was their verdict.
Caxemira is definitely worth a visit, and easy to find if one knows where to look.
Menu
