Glasgow – Bab-e-khyber – It’s All Happening on the Southside

Three weeks ago, Hector visited the recently opened Pir Mahal Cafe on Albert Drive for the first time. Yesterday was Mags’ – Birthday Curry – at New Ghandi. When Marg picked me up later she suggested Curry-Heute with Mother India’s Cafe in mind. This morning I found an email from Curryspondent Archie making me aware of another new venue across the river – Desi Dhaba Chaiwala (650 Eglinton St, Glasgow G5 9RP), off we went.

Desi Dhaba Chaiwala is in a portacabin sharing a site with a car-wash, different. Unfortunately Desi Dhaba was closed. A car-wash-wala told me the Curry House is closed for a couple of weeks, we headed further south.

I went to Bab-e-khyber (162, 164 Kilmarnock Rd, Shawlands, Glasgow G41 3PG) two Wednesdays back and found it unexpectedly closed. A lady parked outside informed that this was due to illness – someone was on their way – I didn’t have time to hang about. Trusting their advertised noon opening time today, here was the opperchancity to try again. We arrived just on 14.30.

The lights were on but the place was not in a state of readiness, tables needed wiped, the Tandoor was still firing up, we took our seats regardless, Hector was on a mission.

Lamb Karahi ½ kg (£12.00) is why Hector was here. Pakistani & Afghani Cuisine – is the Fayre on offer, regular readers will appreciate that this is the Hector idyll. With no Samosas on offer to tempt Marg, she announced Lamb Chops (£7.00). The description promised quite a feast: 4 Lamb Chops, a Naan, Salad and Sauce.

Mein Host apologised for being behind with the setup, the Lamb Chops still needed to be marinaded and this would take twenty minutes. Similarly, the Tandoor would need to reach its optimum temperature. We would wait. I added a Naan (£0.50) to the Order to accompany my Karahi Gosht.

We sat patiently, monitoring Rangers throwing away any chance of wining the League, just another Sunday. The décor is simple, Bab-e-khyber seats eighteen. Marg decided to go food shopping for Mother and came back with an array of birthday cards. Anyone else having a birthday soon? Mein Host apologised again, they were open until 02.00 last night, sounded like a private party. He also confirmed the noon opening time, except Sundays, which is 14.00. It was 15.15 when the food started to arrive. It was worth the wait.

Mein Host did well to get everything on the table, he had expected more staff @15.00, alas, not today. A Chilli Dip and a Raita were accompanied, eventually, by a generous Salad complete with Olives and Pickled Chillies. Had Marg missed the Greek Salad (£3.50) tucked away in the – Extras? The Naans were served whole, a simple act which always pleases. With perforations, they had not risen as much as they could have, approaching Rogni Naan (£1.50) which was also available. Still, the Bread was light and fluffy, and at 50p, made a mockery of so many venues. This is surely the true value of Bread.

Lamb Chops

The four Lamb Chops were well fired, their Tandoor works! Salad, as described, was also present. As Marg took her first bite into a Chop, so she raised her other hand to make a positive gesture. I was invited to take a nibble – decent Chops! Such was the volume of food on the table, it took Marg the whole time of my eating to finish her Lamb Chops.

My Lamb Chops were gorgeous, succulent meat!

Lamb Karahi

Shorva! I had not been expecting that. OK, one sets that disappointment aside, it’s all about the taste. Sliced Green Chilli and a sprinkling of Fresh Coriander topped the Curry. The given description mentioned – Tomatoes, Ginger, Chillies and Garam Masala – but not Onions. A very simple Masala, the Dish was therefore all about the – slow cooking. I didn’t count the Meat, why bother in a half kilo portion? There was enough. The dark colour impressed, no nasty – Red – here.

I dipped a piece of Naan into the Shorva, we had Flavour! I recognised this distinctive Earthy Flavour, but from where? I invited Marg to follow suit – Cinnamon – was her observation, followed by – a slight sweetness. Marg acknowledged the pedigree of what lay before us. The Seasoning was how Hector likes it, serious; the Chillies upped the Spice Level. Time to try the Meat.

The Lamb had been slow cooked to perfection, so Soft, yet far from pulp.

Mein Host came over to ask the customary question. Marg enthused about her Lamb Chops. I had to mention – Namkeen – as this was another possible outcome I had in mind for today’s Karahi. I believe he said they do it. Hector was eating, with his fingers, not the time to take notes.

More food, just what we needed. Mein Host brought a Soupçon of Chana Masala. We were being well looked after and our patience was certainly paying off. Chickpeas are never my favourite, however, the Masala was quite different from what I was already eating. This was decidedly Thicker, there was a slight Creaminess with an underlying Musky Flavour. If this floats your boat, ask for it.

As the level of the Shorva dropped so I came to see that pulped Meat formed part of what was evolving before me, I could now use the term – Masala. There had to be another photo.

This is what I had been expecting to receive, this looked like a quality Lamb Karahi. What I was tasting finally registered. Both the taste and appearance were reminiscent of the Mutton Handi as served at Sarina’s (Queensbury-Bradford). I can give no higher praise. Garam Masala, no other powdered Spice, is this the secret?

Between us, we managed only one Naan, then came the moment when I had to take stock. I had reached the point of maximum pleasure, to continue eating would have spoiled this. With eight pieces of Meat left, I called a halt. Tomorrow’s lunch.

The Bill

£19.00 My kind of price, my kind of place.

The Aftermath

The Calling Card issued, we chatted on. Mein Host drew my attention to the Kabli Pilow (£8.00), a Rice Dish which is clearly more than a Biryani. With Lamb or Beef, this could be quite a change for Hector, but then I couldn’t have the Karahi Gosht at the same time.

I’ll be back.

Meanwhile, Monday’s Lunch

I heated the Takeaway Lamb Karahi on the stove, microwaves can do horrible things to Curry. However, half of the Naan was nuked for one minute.

The similarity in Flavour to Sarina’s – Mutton Handi – is confirmed. This was excellent, however, Sarina’s – Mutton Handi – is served on-the-bone and so retains its special place.