Curry-Heute should have been blogging today from a Curry House somewhere between Gare du Nord and Passage Brady in – Paris, France – as they like to say in Texas, USA. This was meant to be Marg’s first trip in retiral, note, we no longer have – holidays. Instead we find ourselves having Curry in Berwick-upon-Tweed, a town that has intrigued since we first made a change of driver here on a bus back from London to Edinburgh in the days after the eruption of Eyjafjallajökull. That was ten years ago, Curry-Heute was in its infancy, it has taken a while to get back.
Given the inflated prices of accommodation, everywhere in the UK presently, Eyemouth, back across the Scottish border, proved to have the best deal, we soon found out why. The few places that are open were fully booked, the only Curry House – Indian Brasserie – does not open until Thursday. Too late, Staggs (Musselburgh) on Thursday, maybe now our locus may make sense.
I phoned both Curry Houses in Berwick before committing. 20.30 was the earliest we could have a table in either. Tonight – Magna Tandoori (39 Bridge St., Berwick-Upon-Tweed, England TD15 1ES), tomorrow night – Amran’s Indian Kitchen & Grill.
Arriving punctually at Magna Tandoori, quite a few were waiting to be seated. Somehow, we were last to be allocated a table, which gave the perfect opperchancity to take the classic photo of the Taj Mahal. We were soon placed in the larger room with plenty of space around us. Gel and signing-in done, I noted those who brought the food were the only staff wearing masks. Every venue has its own interpretation of what is required. I suppose, being south of the Border, things may also be different.
The Menus were brought, mine was sticky, and so I missed an entire double page which meant I couldn’t see where Marg’s choice was coming from. It also meant I had fixed my attention on the Karahi Lamb (£9.90) subject to my usual caveat. Marg had found – Special Fusion Dishes – Mouthwatering, zesty, tangy, sweet creamy mild to medium … created by our chef during lockdown. Knowing that Chicken (£10.90) works better with a Creamy Curry than Lamb (£10.90) Marg chose the lesser Meat. The usual Chapati (£1.50) for Marg would accompany. My request for a Chilli (£3.50) & Coriander (£3.50) Naan would be accepted.
There was still the ritual to go through of establishing that the Karahi Lamb would not be a mass of Capsicum and Onion as the Mainstream Restaurants tend to serve. In no way was I expecting tonight’s Karahi to be anything like those I have enjoyed in Glasgow in the last few weeks at DumPukht Lahori and Ambala. Our chap guaranteed there would be no Capsicum, – that’s Jalfrezi – was his means of differentiating. We’re on the same page – was Hector’s response.
Tandoori Lamb Chops (3 pieces) (£8.90) to share was nearly the Starter. Then I spotted Tandoori Horeen (£8.90) – barbecued venison. Having already dismissed the Venison Dishes, all £12.90, this felt like a one off opperchancity to have the best of all Meats that can go in a Curry. But why barbecue Venison then put in in a Masala? Venison is so strong in herb flavours, it surely needs no more? Just get it in the Curry.
A large bottle of Sparkling Water completed the Order. Poppadoms were mentioned and declined. If they wanted us to have them, they could have brought them.
A Monday night in Berwick-Upon-Tweed, and every table occupied. OK, there were fewer tables at this time of – Social Distancing – which was being observed in our room to the full 2m, perhaps less so next door. Is that where the younger diners were placed? Cool if so. Despite the – crowd – I managed another couple of photos of this very fine establishment.
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Tandoori Horeen
A sizzling platter was placed centre table accompanied by a side plate with a garnish. On seeing that we were sharing, the waiter immediately brought another side plate, complete with the garnish. A bowl of Raita followed.
If one studies the photo, it is difficult to see the Meat through the large chunks of Onion and Capsicum. Five modest strips of Venison were hidden beneath. Three Lamb Chops may have been the better option.
Anyway, no bones here, so we knew what we had. How can Meat be so Dry and require so little mastication? The Venison, such as there was, was quite magnificent. It was very much a case of eke it out by making full use of the other items which filled the plate. The Onions maintained their heat on the platter, good Onions. The Capsicum of course was ignored, but why was it there given the above? Had we been paying full price for this tonight, I might have felt ripped off, this was a time to take the risk and let Chancellor Rishi make his contribution.
As he cleared the table, the waiter asked if we were ready for our main courses. I asked for a break, this was duly acknowledged. Some ten minutes later a different waiter asked if we were ready. This was appreciated, one needs time to digest.
Karahi Lamb
Achtung, ein Zwiebelfest, a – Lamb Dopiaza! All I could see was a mass of Onions, beneath this was the Lamb, somewhere. Had there been Capsicum, this would have been Hector Hell. Actually, this Curry was quite reminiscent of that which Marg has ended up with over the years. A familiar sight then, but apart from the vessel, in what way was this a Karahi?
I finally found ten pieces of Meat, all uniform in size, and reminiscent of the bags of frozen chunks of Meat one finds in freezer stores. Chunks – Marg reminded me I had said to the waiter that I did not want – chunks – of Onion and Capsicum. Here were slices of Onion, and so many of them.
In terms of Flavour, there was not a lot happening here. The Spice Level was decidedly moderate, Seasoning had given way to a slight Sweetness. I knew I could have made a better choice this evening, when in a Mainstream Curry House, order the classics. Still, there were no grounds to complain, Hector was having Curry, and – Every day is a good day to eat Curry. However, there was something else going on that had me in raptures.
Chilli & Coriander Naan
I cannot recall posting a full size photo of a Naan previously. This could well have been the best Naan ever served to this commentator. A sensible size, served whole, not dripping in Garlic, and sliced Green Chillies with Fresh Coriander cooked on top of the lightest, puffiest of Breads. Burnt blisters and big bubbles, beautiful soft – doughy – bits around the edges, thinner in parts. In response to the first waiter to ask if we were enjoying our meal:
That could be one of the best Naans I’ve ever had, you should promote your Chef and pay him double.
Maybe not a good idea – was the studied response.
Chapatti done, it was time for Marg to sample this Wonder Bread. Marg noticed a Sweetness after her Chapatti – well Sugar is part of the recipe – was Hector’s knowing reply.
This was quite a spot after Marg’s Curry.
Special Fusion Dishes – Chicken
The Masala had interesting flecks, evidently much more than just the Soupy Masala anticipated. Marg had stuck to her normal Chapatti, Rice may well have been the better option. I took a dip with my Naan, there was the Creaminess and the Sweetness was not overpowering, there was indeed a tang to this. Not Spicy enough for a Hector, perfect for Marg. For this Curry, it really had to be Chicken. This – Special Fusion Dish – had distinctly more Flavour than the Karahi Lamb.
An enjoyable, sweet tasting sauce with a zesty kick, which went well with chicken and a soft chapatti, a very enjoyable meal – concluded Marg.
The Bill
£43.10 Less the £20.00 discount for Eat Out to Help Out.
The Aftermath
The Head Waiter dealt with matters financial, an opperchancity to present the Calling Card and show him my last Lamb Karahi.
That is not Desi – said the chap presumably referring to his own offering. He admitted that his customers would not cope if he added all of the extra Chillies required to recreate what I was showing him. Had I asked, he could have done more. Why not write this on the Menu? But then tonight I would probably have missed it.
Next time I would have Beef from the Bombay Dishes, and hope that the Bread Chef has not been head-hunted.
The Menu
