April 8, 2020, the tenth anniversary of Curry-Heute, the plan was to be here in München to mark the date by having Curry at one of the best Curry Houses on the planet – Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München). Like so many plans this year, aborted. Steve, who discovered Indian Mango and would also have been here in April, joins Howard and Hector for the first trip abroad since Lockdown.
Having checked in, it was straight to Indian Mango, at 17.30 there were more customers sitting outside than in. The waiter, whose name still escapes me, greeted at the door. Herr Battra, the manager, bumped fists as we entered. He disappeared, not to be seen again. Screens were in situ, staff wore masks, no track and trace. Chef popped his head around the counter from the cooking area, a big wave. Alles in Ordnung.
Herr Jolly Kunjappu, musician and philosopher, who founded Indian Mango has moved on. The Menu remains the same as do the prices, a la carte is not cheap. What to have, Fisch Chettinad (€14.00) or Lamm Chettinad (€15.00), Rice inclusive.
Fisch Chettinad is still not on the Menu, having checked it was available, why not have both? I have done this before. The chaps took the Lamm option, Steve added a Garlic Naan (€2.50). Drinks, Mineralwasser (€3.50) and Cola Light (€3.00) completed the Order. No Bier, Augustiner later, we were here for the Curry.
The new guy brought the food, four portions of Rice, four German portions, OK, a test. Sometimes the Lamm Chettinad has been the standout, sometimes the Fisch. I decanted both, Lamm on the left, Fisch on the right. Steve meanwhile was already getting stuck in, his appreciation was immediately forthcoming.
The Chettinad at Indian Mango is like no other, and this includes Hector’s attempt at impersonation a few nights back. However, I will claim that my home-cooked Naan was better, today’s looked thin, peely wally.
Lamm Chettinad Fisch Chettinad
The toppings on both were identical, slivers of Tomato, Ginger Strips and a sprinkling of Coriander. Curry, as Dry as Curry can be and still be regarded as such. The Lamb was truly part of the Dish, it gave off so much Flavour. The Lamm Chettinad was indeed excellent, the Fisch offered even more – Seasoning. The Spice Level was – scharf – as is written, however, the Fisch Chettinad had the – Wow!
Hector the Magnanimous, spooned a Soupçon on to the plates of his fellow diners, they too must appreciate the difference. Mission accomplished, the Fisch Chettinad was indeed something else.
Steve took the easy option for his review – just write what I said last time. In time he played the game:
I found the Fisch to be more intense, but that’s the nature of the dish. Another satisfying meal at Mango.
Howard is never short of a word or ten:
Firstly, it’s good to be back in Munich and in Mango. This is a slightly tricky review, to accurately reflect what’s going on. The Lamb was not super-soft, but perfectly acceptable. Some pieces of Lamb had a distinctive Lamb taste, others were neutral. The sauce was excellent, it too varied in intensity. Courtesy of Hector, the juxtaposition of the Lamm and Fisch Chettinad showed there was no comparison. The Fisch Chettinad was significantly better. The spice level was spot on.
With Herr Battra gone, the ending of the meal was an anticlimax.
The Bill
€71.50 (£63.84) Just as well we don’t live in München.
The Aftermath
The noon opening was confirmed for tomorrow. There had to be a photo of Chef. Herr Jolly may have gone, the recipes survive.
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