Berlin – India Club – A Night to Remember

Michelin Guide – two words that have never appeared before in Curry-Heute. Yes, Hector is back in Berlin, ten days after returning to Blighty, this time with Marg. Tonight we dined – in style – India Club (Behrenstraße 72, 10117 Berlin Deutschland) a restaurant which is actually in the Michelin Guide and perhaps reminiscent of the hotel restaurants in our tour of – The Golden Triangle – in 2016. Northern Indian Cuisine – is what is advertised, a departure from Hector’s usual Punjabi Fayre. Would India Club match the – authentic Indian Cuisine – served at Niros (Jaipur) or Gulati (New Delhi)?

India Club is located minutes from the Brandenburg Gate and opposite the Holocaust Memorial – Denkmal für die ermordeten Juden Europas. The exterior of the building is presently undergoing renovation, the heart sank as we reached the scaffolding, where was the entrance?

Aha, it’s within the building, but not open at lunchtime. We resolved to return after our afternoon in Potsdam.

Entering just after 18.30, we were greeted at the door and asked if we had a reservation. Indians inquiring about a reservation always amuses. Only three tables were occupied, we were shown to a table for two well away from the other diners, however, the next couple in were sat beside us. Track & Trace dealt with, it was time to study the Menu.

The A3 laminated sheet was next to impossible to photograph due to reflections. The Menu was on the brief side, eleven main courses, only two of which were Gosht and one Battak. As ever, I studied the descriptions, – Paprika – was clearly mentioned in some, but not in the Lamm or Ente Dishes. Assam Duck Curry (€27.00) became Hector’s choice. Aloo Battak, Potatoes were specifically mentioned in the description, therefore less chance of encountering the dreaded – Green Mush. Marg pushed the boat out further – Balti Meat (€29.00). I shall give the Reader a few moments to take stock. The prices were effectively double what one might expect to pay in a Berlin Curry House, could the food be twice as good? Actually, being the twelfth Berlin Curry House reviewed in Curry-Heute to date, I have yet to find anything truly outstanding, competence has become the standard which pleases. A Naan (€4.00), Saffron Pulao (€5.00) and a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (€8.00) completed the Order. Aberdeen prices for the Sundries then? I shall take another moment to reflect on my enjoyable Aloo Gosht at Sheerin Palace (Glasgow) a few days back for £6.50, including the Roti. To be fair, the location of India Club is certainly high rent, the restaurant is located in the same block as the British and US embassies. I wonder how much of my income tax has gone towards paying for British consular officers to nip out for a Curry? Consular officers – two more words making a first appearance, Hector, what are you on?

The waitress took the Order. I did my best to establish – no Paprika/Capsicum. She returned a few minutes later for further clarification, yes Black Pepper, Chillies etc. are fine, just no – Ballast. I asked for my Curry to be – above medium Spice, Marg asked for Medium. My – medium – was based on Curry as served in India, not Deutschland.

The Sparkling Water was brought to the table and a dribble poured into our respective glasses, the bottle was then placed out of reach. We had little choice but to finish what we had and wait for the waiter to fill us up.

Poppadoms and three Dips were presented. The cone shaped Poppadoms had the embedded Cumin Seeds which prevail in Deutschland. The Mango Dip had a definite kick, the Tamarind was refreshing, Marg had the Mint. It seemed sensible to try and fill the cones with the Dips.

Side plates and the unused cutlery were cleared, the remnants of the Dips were left. Two very hot dinner plates were set before us. One has to admit that the service was particularly polished, everyone knew their role, and it was well practised.

The Main Courses were assembled on the table. The Saffron Pulao was enough to share. The Naan was the last to arrive. Thin, crispy and served in quarters, what a pitiful Naan. Was it the Bread Chef’s night off? This was a truly sad effort, as much biscuit as bread, this Naan did nothing for Hector who could probably produce something better himself. Ironically, Marg loved it because it was closer to being a Roti.

Balti Meat

Topped with Ginger Strips, four exceptionally large pieces of Meat sat in a Shorva,  As Marg decanted the Lamb to her plate, one could tell this was quality. The brown Masala looked very rich despite its thinness, Hector dipped some Naan, – ah Cinnamon!

This was a Traditional Indian Curry, significantly different from what we would order at home where Soupy Curry is eschewed. Marg cut the Meat into smaller pieces, she had quite a plateful, and appeared to enjoy every moment:

Very tender, slow cooked, medium spice, fine for me – was her initial remark, this was complemented by:

The four massive pieces of lamb were very tender. A rich flavour, and worked well with the saffron rice.

Assam Duck Curry

A garnish which looked like a nest of sliced Onions, a Tarka, was accompanied by a sprinkling of Herbs and Ginger. The Onions were initially set aside. Two legs of Duck, served on-the-bone, sat atop a minimal, blended Masala. This was clearly not the same Masala as served above, much thicker. The pieces of Potato had been arranged around the Meat, smothered in Masala, I must admit to being impressed by the presentation.

I took one leg from the plate along with the Potatoes, there was just enough Masala, a Soupy Curry this was not. The next twenty minutes or so should have been videoed. Hector had no choice but to use both knife and fork. The Meat had to be removed from the bone and cut into manageable pieces. I was impressed at how easily the Meat came off the bone. The Meat looked rich and lived up to this, possibly the best Duck I have ever eaten in terms of texture. The Potatoes added the required Diversity, Marg had Meat and Masala, Hector had so much more.

The Masala had a very familiar flavour, associated with  Traditional Curry, nowhere else in Berlin has served a Masala this good. However, all was not well. Where was the Spice? Above Medium? The Spice Level was so low I have to question what the management consider to be – Spicy? The term – Spice – also has to be appreciated, not every Spice raises a sweat. Spice plus Seasoning equals Flavour, this Curry had something, but I feel it still needed more.  When the Onions were tackled, Marg suggested that these might add the required – kick – alas not the case. I could have stirred in some of the Mango Chutney, however, I was not going to ruin Chef’s Masala and create a Patia.

By the time I reached the second leg, I knew I was in for a challenge, this was quite a portion. The quality of the Duck saved the day, an enjoyable meal, but it was crying out for more of a – kick! Had Chef held back due to my – no Paprika – request? The Masala had pedigree, if one became a regular at India Club, this would be sorted.

The table was cleared, the Dessert Menu brought. Marg ordered Cappuccino Masala (€4.00). What came was a milky coffee with Cinnamon sprinkled on top. More Cinnamon. The Coffee was warm rather than – hot.

The Bill

€77.00 (£71.30) The most expensive – Curry – ever ordered. Had Boris and his Brexit cohort not devalued Sterling, it would not have hurt the wallet as much.

The Aftermath

I took the Calling Card up to where the staff stood in attendance. I suspect they thought I was trying to sell them something. Marg spotted a Chef come over to inspect whilst I was giving my Spiel.

There we have it, India Club appears on Curry-Heute, make of it what you wish.