Hector is back in Athena where, despite the midnight closing of pubs, life is more bearable than back in Blighty. Somehow, the Greeks have kept Covid in check better than the British, such that even Scotland has lifted the need to self isolate on one’s return. This trip was conceived months ago regardless, and getting here was not simple, easyJet indeed. Our flight from Edinburgh was the first to disappear, the replacement from Gatwick was also cancelled. Yesterday’s flight was put back a couple of hours due to Greek Air Traffic Controllers, then there was the mystery of the Metro from the airport. The lesson learned: take the Airport bus to Syntagma.
A relatively late night Greek feast meant that Hector’s appetite was not ready for Curry at noon, but if a second meal was to be had, it had to be this early. Hector was accompanied to Pak Taka Tak Restaurant (Pl. Theatrou 24, Athina 105 52) by Marg and Lord Clive and Lady Maggie from Crawley, our English friends were débutantes at this remarkable Athena Curry Cafe.
Prices have not increased here in all the years of Curry-Heute visits. Hector’s default choice at Pak Taka Tak – Karahi Gosht – at €4.00 is almost unbelievable. With three fellow diners, greater coverage of the Menu was possible today. Clive went for Beef Karahi (€4.00), somehow, in Hector’s eagerness to eat, no photo of the Beef Karahi was recorded. Maggie joined Marg with Keema Matar (€4.00) after establishing, courtesy of a fellow customer doing the translating, that Fish (1 piece) (€4.00) was not available as a Curry. The Chicken Karahi (€4.00) was finished already. To keep things simple, I ordered four Naan. Marg asked for a Roti via our translator, I don’t think they do Roti/Chapattis. Maggie announced she cannot eat Bread, Rice was added. Clive put in a bid for a Keema Naan (€1.00).
A large bottle of Still Water was brought to the table with glasses. How often at home do we have to ask for glasses in similar venues? Two plates of Salad were then provided along with two very large plates of Raita. This was all complimentary. How does Pak Taka Tak make a profit?
Marg squeezed the Lemon wedges over the very decent Salad then took but a Soupçon of the Raita. Sadly, the majority of the copious Raita on the table went untouched. Marg took care of one Salad, Hector was trying to sustain what appetite there was.
During our visit, I watched a succession of solo diners devour various mountainous Rice Dishes. It was no surprise when our – portion – of Rice proved to be enough for four, and this was about half of what I had been witnessing across the way. A pile of Naans was presented, Rogni, all very hot and fresh. It took a few moments to spot that the Naan at the bottom was a Keema Rogni Naan. Clive took care of most of this, my sample revealed an earthy flavour. Excellent Bread, over the years I have watched bundles of Naan being taken out of Pak Taka Tak. At these prices, no wonder.
Previously, I have only seen this on display, not as a portion, but what a portion!
As Dry as Keema Mutter should be, and with whole Green Chillies sitting menacingly on top, this was definitely the real thing. Marg identified Coriander stalks as being mixed through the Curry. Busy with his own monstrous Curry portion, Hector refrained from the usual Soupçon, one day. Marg had devoured a Salad then took care of her Curry and may well have had a whole Naan. At the end, only her Chillies remained, one day.
A very enjoyable meal – concluded Marg – the abundance of salad complemented the Keema Mutter and fresh bread.
Maggie had to contend with her portion of Keema plus the accompanying Rice. Maggie ate way more than her norm.
Very yummy – was an initial remark, leading to – lots of Coriander stalks, big bits of Ginger, Bay Leaves, Garlic. Lots of flavour, huge Rice.
I shall have to try this on a future visit.
Karahi Gosht
There was approximately a half kilo of Curry in the karahi, probably even more. The Oily Masala approached the Shorva typical of Glasgow’s Sheerin Palace. However, with a high Meat to Masala ratio, far from – Soup. This was authentic Desi Cuisine. Ginger Strips provided the occasional blast of Flavour, in this well spiced, well seasoned Karahi. The Meat, served on-the-bone, ranged from melt in the mouth to Tender-Chewy.
Whole Green Chillies featured here also, Black Cardamom was encountered in the mix. Ribs dominated, one slightly Sucky Bone provided momentary distraction.
Having eaten almost an entire Naan, plus pieces of the Keema Naan, there was no way Hector was going to finish all that was in the karahi. There was a sensible time to stop, not too much waste, and only one splash on the yellow polo shirt.
Beef Karahi
The appearance was close to the Karahi Gosht, the biggest difference was the Meat being served – boneless. Clive had this to contend with plus a bed of Rice and most of the Keema Naan, quite a challenge. Somehow he ate all that was on his plate then still had enough appetite to eat more Naan whilst scooping up the surplus Masala left in the karahi.
It was flavoursome, not hot at all, no fire in it, but full of flavour. Very tender meat and plenty of it. Good job we didn’t order a Rice each.
€18.00 was asked for initially, then an extra €2.00 was added – for the Rice.
When Marg said €20.00, Clive assumed this was per couple. When reality dawned that we were paying €5.00 per head, our Débutantes were gobsmacked.
The Aftermath
I applauded the staff as I made my way to the door. I couldn’t tell if anyone had remembered me. We’re here for a while, there will be time for a return visit. Maybe then we’ll be recognised.
In our wanderings today around Psyri, new venues were spotted, and one has gone.
Nearest to our accommodation is/was Buddha Indian Restaurant (Karaiskaki 15 & Aisopou 2). Once again this building is undergoing renovation, though the Muriel (sic) suggests it may come back as a Curry House.
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Around the corner from Pak Taka Tak and next door to Pak Tikka Shop – Grill House (Sapfous 5, Athina 105 53) is Vip’s Desi Fast Food and Biryani (Menandrou 11, Athina 105 52). I’m not sure yet if Curry is sold here but if I feel like a mountain of Rice or, as is more likely, a Chapli Kebab (€2.00) for a snack, Hector will pop in here soonest. Walking up towards the Central Municipal Athens Market aka Meat & Fish Markets is the South Indian – Dosa House (Theatrou 3 Near, Pl. Theatrou, Athina 105 52).
I mentioned Fish Chettinad to the lady sitting outside. I was invited to look at their Menu. Apart from Dosa, only straightforward Lamb Curry and Lamb Korma enticed. What chance the Korma being a Desi Korma?
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Later, we passed Curry Express (Kolokotroni 37, Athina 105 62), clearly not for Hector.
I have put it to Marg that if Lockdown continues at home, and things stay obviously so much better in Hellas, we move over here for a month. Marg hasn’t said no, yet.
Great review. Unbelievable prices – how can they serve such good food with big portions at around £3.60 a shot. A nan at £0.90 is just such good value. Good to see all having a great time together. A month ?. Stay for the winter and enjoy some good weather. Happy days.
Hector replies:
I wish you had a direct line to m’lady…