Deira Lahore (641 Cathcart Road, Crosshill, Glasgow G42 8AE) is a Takeaway, however, for those who insist, eating in can be accommodated, just. The attraction of Deira Lahore is Maestro Chef – Waris, after years of floating around Southside Curry venues, he has made Deira Lahore his own.
Two Saturdays back, Hector popped in to check all was well. It was agreed that I would come and dine. Having studied the Menu, Fish Karahi (£6.99) had to be. Securing an authentic – Desi/Apna – Fish Karahi in Glasgow that has the – Wow! – factor has been an ongoing mission for many a year. I kept the Order simple, Fish Karahi for two, a Chapatti (£0.80) and a Paratha (£1.99).
I’m sure you will surprise us with something extra – concluded our exchange of text messages. The meal was set for today at 15.00, Marg would accompany. Marg had never met Waris, she missed out on the early encounters at Lasani Grill way back in 2014.
We timed our arrival to perfection, introductions made, we squeezed into our places at the second of the two tables. Somehow, five years have passed since I last sat in this spot.
Please don’t overfeed us – was a serious plea – we need to eat what we have ordered.
Waris told us that as well as the Fish Karahi he had also prepared Lamb Karahi. Knowing that not to sample this would be out of order, it was a greed that a – small portion – would accompany the Fish.
A simple Salad was presented, which I then realised was actually an elaborate plate of Spiced Onions. Red and White Onions had been infused with Mango Chutney, something different. Marg likes her Mango Chutney, this would go down well. The plate of Mixed Starters which followed was pitched well in terms of quantity.
Mixed Starters
Four pieces of Vegetable Pakora, Hector secured one. When Marg finds freshly made Pakora, she enthuses. This was much to her liking. Most of the Chicken Seekh Kebab came my way.
The taste of the Middle East – was noted, Cumin possibly the standout Spice. A fine Seekh Kebab, I was amused by the hole left by the square rod which had been used as the skewer.
I thought the flat pieces were Aubergine, I made the same mistake on my last visit. Nope, Potato Pakora, or – Fritters – as they have been served in Scottish Fish & Chip Shops for decades. This was the surprise element of what lay before me. Hot, freshly made, and with a definite – kick.
The Hot Red Sauce complemented all of the above. Marg remarked on the fact that it had been heated. Why pour a cold sauce over hot food?
Hector washed this down with a can of Scotland’s very own Irn Bru. Her Majesty the Queen visited the Barr’s factory in Cumbernauld two days ago, excellent publicity. This is also where Mango Rubicon is produced, Hector’s usual alternative to Sparkling Water.
After a suitable break, the Bread arrived. Two large Chapattis, and a Paratha beneath. Marg would manage one Chapatti, I told Waris that I rarely finish a Paratha.
The Swirl was evident, the layering too. Soft, buttery, now imagine this having been prepared with white flour instead of wholemeal. This Paratha was a fine example of the genre.
Fish Karahi
Topped with copious pieces of large sliced Green Chillies and Coriander Leaves, this was unlike anything ever seen before. Two Salmon Steaks were smothered in the darkest of Tomato-rich Masalas. I did ask Waris if it was all Tomato, Onions were in there too. My wife’s recipe – he admitted.
The first dip of Paratha into the Masala was the – Wow! – moment. One could taste the Fish here, this was truly remarkable. The Spice and Seasoning were not in one’s face, enough, perfect for Marg. How many times have I described my disappointment on being served a Fish Curry/Karahi where there is no sense of the Fish being present at all? OK, freshwater Fish ain’t naturally seasoned, Salmon, works so well in a Curry, and is filling. Beware, gram for gram, it’s much more filling than Meat.
It looked as though the Spiced Salmon had been baked in the Masala, everything was therefore in harmony. Marg was loving this, a unique experience, nobody has ever served a Fish Karahi like this anywhere else.
Marg somehow had no bones, Hector had the larger piece of Fish, and therefore the backbone had to be removed. This Fish was beautiful in its own right, I forgot I had Paratha too. Paratha, Masala, Masala Fish, this is a Deira Lahore experience I thoroughly recommend.
Marg’s verdict:
I loved the Starters, especially the Vegetable Pakora which went well with the onion based salad. However, the Salmon Steak (Fish Karahi) was the highlight of the meal, succulent meat with a rich and earthy sauce.
It was a lovely expereince meeting Waris.
Lamb Karahi
Ginger Strips had been added to the Toppings. The Masala appeared identical to that which had smothered the Salmon. The Lamb was on-the-bone, and so the portion was not excessive, especially when Marg announced that she would only have a Soupçon. For Hector, this would be a case of eat slowly, enjoy.
When I visit Indian Mango (München), their Fisch Chettinad is always foremost in my mind, however, sometimes the Lamm Chettinad has more Flavour. In recent times I have ordered both, in that way, the fear of missing out is avoided.
Today was an equivalent moment. The Minimal Masala clearly would not have the pronounced Fish Flavour, so it suffered by comparison. To have ordered this on its own would have led to an entirely different review.
A significant blast of Cloves gave this Masala its own identity. Something black and solid went into my mouth I took it to be a Black Cardamom and so was expecting something – smokey, but Aniseed was being registered. There was Flavour here.
The Meat varied in quality. Some pieces were delightfully Soft, others took quite a bit of chewing. The bones were discarded, Lamb and Fish bones on the same plate, another unique experience.
Conversation with Waris continued intermittently, Takeaway customers were served, some clearly taken aback to see diners in situ.
A photo of Waris and his son appears somewhere in these pages, Waris told me he is no longer the tallest member of his family. Marg told Waris that I do all the cooking at home, and recently became bored with everything turning out the same. Waris admitted that he too enjoys other’s cooking for him, what he makes turns out – in his style. It is this style which Curry-Heute hopefully highlights and will encourage others to try.
Lamb Karahi & Fish Karahi
The Bill
After a few minutes of insistence, there was a financial transaction, nowhere near what should have been. Thank you, Waris.
The Aftermath
I met the other Chef last time, today it was Ikram who posed alongside Waris.
Next time, Waris’ Namkeen Karahi, this is where it all began.
Two very satisfied customers walked back to the car on Allison Street. Today is Wednesday, I resisted going into Sheerin Palace for Takeaway – Kofta Anda. I shall dine in there, one day soon.