It’s two months shy of two years since Dr. Stan last dined at Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP), that day we were five and demolished a mountain of food. It was Chapatti John, also present back in September 2019, who instigated our visit this afternoon, Hector made the arrangements. The customary text was sent – Please feed three. I also advised Shkoor, Mein Host, that we may not manage a comparable volume, this was duly noted.
We assembled either side of the arranged 15.00. There was time to take in the new decor from a different perspective. The redesign has been managed slowly, over the latter months of Lockdown. I put it to Shkoor that the recently arrived new tables should offer greater flexibility. As he related the policy of a slow, steady evolution, Shkoor placed a half-litre bottle of ice-cold Sparkling Water on the table. It is only eleven years since I first asked for this. John also joined the fizzy water party thus confirming the demand. Dr. Stan stuck with the Mango Rubicon, produced in the same plant as Irn Bru.
John asked what we were having. I had planted seeds but not made a specific order other than the Goshat Karahi. I had mentioned the ever popular Chapli Kebab and also – Fish. As reiterated earlier in the week when I – snacked – at Ambala, nothing comes close to Yadgar’s Fish Pakora, and as for the Spiced Haddock baked in foil, well … that’s a treat when available.
Naveed has yet to return after his travels, I must establish the names of the young chaps who have appeared during the time when Hector’s access to the Southside was restricted. Poppadoms, Dips then Spiced Onions were brought to the table. Don’t overdose on Poppadoms. Shkoor himself brought the first Starter, the thought of us as the three gladiators flashed through my mind:
Those who are about to dine, salute you!
Baked Sea Bass
At the point of presentation, all we knew for certain – this was not Haddock.
Four smaller Masala Fish, the Spices baked hard on to the surface. John thought he could see stripes suggesting Mackerel. My first intake generated an immediate – Wow! – followed by – Herring. The Spice, the Flavours, astonished. The intensity of Flavour, the – fishiness – was exactly what one looks for, we had to ask. Sea Bass – took us by surprise, never have we had Sea Bass in this league.
That’s my favourite dish out of an Indian to date – declared John. Dr. Stan had uttered his customary – Mmmm.
Three Fish, the fourth was divvied up, more pleasure.
Chicken Chapli Kebab
Two halved Chapli, one cannot visit Yadgar and not sample the Chapli. Even Spicier! – I noted. A completely different set of Flavours. The Chicken was incidental, it’s all about what was in the mix. A half each, plus a bit more, Shkoor was, as ever, doing us proud, and appeared to have taken my plea on board.
Strangely today, there was no Salad on the table, Pickled Chillies aside, this was not being missed.
There was a break, a much needed break. If the Mains come too soon there’s no chance of finishing. Initially, we had the place to ourselves. A family took the far away table, another family sat mid-room. I watched plates of Vegetable Biryani go to one table, Chicken Nuggets and Chips to the other. We used to have Vegetable Rice in our early days of dining at Yadgar, outstanding. A decade ago I could manage Karahi and Rice, no longer. I must come back and order Vegetable Biryani along with a portion of whatever the Curry on display happens to be.
A chap in a suit sat at the table adjacent to us. On seeing our pile of plates, he acknowledged us, and remarked about the quality of the Fayre served at Yadgar. He was having a Dessert whilst he waited for his Takeaway Order. Hopefully, this would be the only sight of Dessert today.
It was after 16.00 when the young chap brought a new set of plates and cutlery, followed by the Main Event.
Goshat Karahi
This is it, the Yadgar – signature Curry – so good that one does not visit the well too often. There’s – rich – and – richer – this is the – richest – of Karahi, I know I’ve had a few in my time. A hint of Creaminess reflects the Yoghurt added at the moment known only to Chef. Arshad was not seen today, his deputy, a quiet chap who always acknowledges, but never takes a bow, must have been responsible for what lay before us. Black Flecks of Pepper was the only other clue as to the contents of the Masala.
Ginger Strips and Coriander topped the Minimal Masala which clung to the Meat. The Lamb: medallions, leg of Lamb, Sucky Bones, and Lamb Chops! I encouraged John to get stuck in and wait for nobody. We were going to eat this, all of it. I served the Good Doctor, easier than moving the karahi.
The accompanying metal platter of Chapattis had arrived without discussion. What else would Chapatti John eat? Four, extra-large, super-thin Chapattis, a new style for Yadgar? Eating Curry without Rice or Bread seems just, wrong. For Hector, it is a medium to support the Masala, for John it’s the base of a Curry sandwich. John was unusually restrained, between us, Dr. Stan and I could only have eaten just over one Chapatti. John had failed to spot that there were four in the pile. A total misjudgement, Chapatti John left a Chapatti untouched. What a waste of food!
We were still dishing out the Lamb and Masala when our waiter brought a plate of Potato-Carrots-Peas – Alloo Gajar!
Alloo Gajar
Carrots were to the fore, followed by Peas. I made sure I secured a piece of Potato. When a Vegetable Curry is presented at Yadgar, it is always the icing on the cake. Usually it is Hector who leads the speculation as to how so much Flavour can be extracted from Vegetables, today it was John. Who knows what the base was for the Masala, well Chef does. We wondered if this Vegetable Curry was suitable for Vegetarians. (but not for long, see Update – below) Superb.
Meanwhile back on the Meat, John got his grumble in regarding Bones. His eating style makes Karahi on-the-bone more footery. Stan and I prefer it this way. As John extracted the Marrow with a utensil, I reminded him why we call them – Sucky Bones. Tender Meat, still requiring chewing, the joy of Lamb Chops cooked in the Masala, a totally different experience from Tandoori Chops.
Spice and Seasoning, the critical parameters, are never an issue here. There was a modest kick, nothing demanding, it’s therefore all about the Flavour, and this is where this venue’s Goshat Karahi wins. The Yadgar Taste – more prominent some days than others, today, the Karahi had it, as did the Alloo Gajar. Yum.
After our second round, we were down to the end game, the last Lamb Chop, a scraping of Viscous Masala, and next to no Oil. We would manage this.
And so we wiped the karahi and plate of the Vegetable side clean. Our waiter had asked if there was anything else we desired, Salad had been offered and declined. Our conclusion for today:
Salad must be the appetite killer.
There had to be an alliterative – G – that goes with – Gladiator – but, not guzzling I put to Shkoor, and certainly not gluttonous. Hector introduces:
The Gladiators Gourmandizing
I congratulated Shkoor on arranging the right amount of food.
The Bill
Our flat rate has not increased in the past two years, it should have. Paying the staff directly has been our means of walking out with heads held high. It all works out in the end.
The Aftermath
I managed to secure a few words from Dr. Stan:
Pretty wonderful, I’ve missed this. The fish was a wonderful starter, hard to believe it was Sea Bass. I enjoyed the Chapli, and the Curry had the right amount of spice.
Later, John concurred. The Goshat Karahi was up to the expected standard, the Sea Bass blew us away. Wonderful, indeed.
Update – Two days later
It is always pleasing when Restaurateurs contact Hector to keep one straight, it also confirms that some read these humble pages.
Shkoor texted Hector:
I can categorically assure you that we do not use any meat stock in our veggie dishes.
Now we know for sure, but are still left to speculate as to how the intensity of Flavour is achieved. As with the proprietors of AG Barr and the secret ingredients of Irn Bru, only the inner circle at Yadgar knows what goes into a Yadgar Curry.