Edinburgh in August, The Festival, not a good time of year to be in The Capital, unless one has tickets for an event or two. On Monday, someone mentioned Bier in the much praised Salt Horse, that was enough to bring Hector through to the east, even though there’s a trip scheduled to the far east tomorrow, Staggs (Musselburgh).
Hector had a cunning plan, another visit to the always impressive Kebab Mahal (7 Nicolson Square, Edinburgh EH8 9BH) would be the fifth, time for this humble establishment to graduate, and be recognised on Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses.
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I arrived at 12.50, Mr. Khan, Mein Host, was in his spot, he gave his customary warm welcome. A couple were sitting at the table which appears to be the focal point of the room, next time I’ll be earlier. I sat on the far side at the wall, the laminated Menu was already in situ, I hadn’t noticed the price increases earlier in the year.
Karahi Ghoust (£11.50) was to be my choice, this time I would ask for – Chef to add a little extra Salt. Mr. Khan took this in his stride. In my excitement I forgot that I have had Karahi Ghoust here previously and served – on-the-bone – as is preferred. The new Menu does not convey if this is still available.
A Tandoori Nan (£2.15) would accompany. Yes, Hector was going to risk having Bread. No Rice? – I was asked. Rice with Karahi Gosht? I might be thrown out of one of my favourite Glasgow establishments if I did that.
There was no mention of liquids.
Ten to fifteen minutes passed, then the Order appeared. I glanced at the Curry, but couldn’t take my eyes off the Naan. Wtf? This was huge! Defeated already! I undid the fold and celebrated it’s wholeness. Mostly – Pale – with some burnt blisters at the centre. This was not cooked on a Tawa, the pan-handle/teardrop shape confirmed this. Later in the day would the Tandoor have been hotter?
Soft, light, fluffy, Hector had chosen a good day to abandon Rice. The Tandoori Naan was indeed – plain – no nasty Garlic contamination here. Overdosing on Bread, then having to eat neat Curry, is why I have avoided it recently. This Naan initially was too good not to eat, but it did go surprisingly crispy. At that point it was – Curry – by the spoonful.
Karahi Ghoust
Topped with but a threat of Coriander, the Curry too looked pale. The karahi itself appeared to be – small – how deceptive was this? There was no attempt at counting the Meat, with just enough Onion-rich Masala, there was enough Lamb here to justify this being the most expensive Curry on the menu. With the Oily residue already collecting around the periphery, it was time to dip. I tore off the point, my favourite part of a Naan. Can one buy six tips? (I shall consult my Rabbi.)
Oh, yes! We have Seasoning!
As much as I have enjoyed every Curry had to date at Kebab Mahal, the Seasoning has always been a bit below that which suits the Hector palate. Mr. Khan brought a Salt cellar to the table. I declared that I would not be using it – I like my Salt cooked in – and it had been.
The Spice Level was in no way demanding, some extra Chillies would not have gone amiss here. Ah, the Manchester foliage, this system should come north of the border. Nevertheless, this Karahi was all about the Flavour, and it kept coming.
Tomatoes had been added in the final moments before serving, these pieces kept on cooking in the Masala. Style and Flavour-wise, Karahi Palace (Glasgow) came to mind, but without the bite, a touch of classic Rogan Josh followed, the Tomatoes. The soft Lamb tasted, well, of Lamb, quite a pronounced taste, always enjoyed.
Around the halfway point I could tell that the Meat count was still in double figures. I ordered a drink (£1.95), I wasn’t going to make it through the Curry otherwise. It was soon after this I had to abandon the Bread, a game changing moment. The Seasoning was to the fore, even more intense Flavours were revealed. Chef came out from the kitchen, on his return he asked:
Alright, young man?
I raised my thumbs, it’s rude to speak with one’s mouth full.
The joy of a quiet venue, Chef knew exactly who was eating his creation.
This Karahi Ghoust certainly passed muster. Next time, more Chillies, Methi, and on-the-bone?
I’m a great big, demanding old Hector.
Two chaps entered, young Master Khan recited their order to them before they spoke. Regulars. Aloo Ghobi (£4.75), I must try it!
The Bill
£15.60
The Aftermath
Thanks to a fire, a bridge crossing was closed. Stockbridge? Time for a tour of the city, well I am a tourist.
And so, Kebab Mahal is added to Hector’s Recommended Curry Houses, only the third venue in this city.