Discovered by Hector in 2016, Lahori Dhera Grill and Steakhouse proved to be the Sheffield Curry House which ticked all of the boxes for Curry-Heute. Dismay – could be an appropriate term to find it gone the following year. In 2018, Apna Style showed the potential to be a worthy successor, however, being located near Bramall Lane in the south of the city, this has proved to be a bit of a hike, only two visits to date. In the interim, 7 Spices Balti has been the go to venue, being in the heart of Bierland in Sheffield. Alas, both the quality of the food and the service has been seen a decline, Hector was determined to find somewhere else, anywhere else.
My Sheffield Curryspondent, whose contact details I have misplaced, recommended a venue in Hillsborough, another hike. There has to be a decent Curry House near Kelham Island, once again I looked to Wicker, home to the former Lahori Dhera. Wicker Kebabish (51-53 Wicker, Sheffield S3 8HT) showed in my search, premises I have stood outside and dismissed. Whilst the Kebabish chain may serve decent Curry, I remain to be convinced about the efficacy of their operation … 
based on an article I read once but can no longer source. I’m not doing too well here, but hang on, Wicker Kebabish is not Kebabish Original (KO). Wicker Kebabish, so sources reveal, is a family run operation, not part of the chain. Hector Holmes was on the case.
Arriving on Wicker at 19.45, the shutters were down at Wicker Kebabish. Surely on this short street of Kebab Houses, Curry was being served? A few metres along the road, all was revealed, a brightly illuminated Curry House – Wicker Kebabish – occupying the former premises of Lahori Dhera Grill and Steakhouse.
On entering, one chap sat mid room dining alone. The area was almost thick with the smoke from the grill. The serving chap, whom I immediately clocked as being Mein Host acknowledged us. I pointed to the stairs, he assured me that the grill was being heavily used at the moment, upstairs would be worse, and the fan would clear the air in minutes.
A waitress showed us to a downstairs booth, the – Reserved – sign was quickly removed. The Menus were already on the table – Apna Style Chef Specials – had me won. I would happily tell the World, but somebody broke – t’internet – today. The description for Karahi Gosht (£8.50) suggested no – Ballast. I would check. A Butter Nan (£2.00) would accompany.
Despite not having had Curry for two days, Marg decided to have Grilled Lamb Chops (£7.00), a portion of five was noted. Marg, five Lamb Chops? Surely one would come in Hector’s direction? Marg has rarely had five to herself.
The waitress took the Order, when I enquired about Peppers/Capsicum she was puzzled, Mein Host called over from behind the counter, all was well. The – Dreaded Green Mush – does not appear in his Karahi Gosht. Apna/Desi-style was affirmed. A 1.5l bottle of cool Still Water (£2.00) completed the Order. No Sparkling Water was available. Yorkshire prices, The Strand no more. 
The wait was appropriate, in time I shall stop mentioning how quickly the food came last week at Needoo Grill (Whitechapel) where a new World Record must have been set. A Modest Salad was brought to the table. Marg nibbled, I would claim the Pickled Chilli for later.
*
*
*
The Butter Nan glistened, thankfully not with Garlic Butter. Lightly fired, but with enough burnt blisters, the Naan was puffy/thicker around the edges. A sensible size, I would both enjoy and manage all of this. Well, as much as I was allowed.
*
Karahi Gosht
The Toppings were minimal, Ginger Strips and a threat of Coriander. No Manchester – foliage – here. There was already a significant collection of Oil around the periphery of the karahi, I would mix this into the Blended Masala. Success, the Oil was reabsorbed, no excess here.
One can tell quality just by staring, and I wasn’t staring for long. The aroma gave it away, this was going to be fun and potentially another milestone in Curry-Heute.
The Spice hit hard, no prisoners being taken here, sliced Green Chillies boosted the overall – kick. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, today this did not seem to matter. Behold, a new Flavour, this was markedly different for that served in the three main cities covered in Curry-Heute. Tomato skins were visible, Onions were not. I deduced a Tomato-based Masala. No need for blending, but then there were no solid Seeds/Spices here. Marg was keen to sample Hector’s latest discovery. The Naan was shrinking rapidly, Marg dipped some Naan into the Masala. I waited for the obvious reaction. The Spice Level here was well outwith Marg’s comfort zone. She came back for more. I shall remind Marg of this in days/months to come when Hector’s Home-cooking causes discomfort.
The waitress was back to confirm that all was well. Indeed, it was.
The Lamb tasted of – Lamb – and much more, again, something new, something different. Our Spice shelves all contain the same ingredients, what does one do to create such a distinctive Flavour?
Mein Host stood at the end of the table. I started by asking if I had met him before. Apparently not. He has been at Wicker Kebabish since its inception.
This is not Bradford Curry, or Manchester Curry – I declared, just in case he had never realised this.
I was still eating and so could not precisely record the response, however, it was along the lines of – Home cooking. How many venues claim this yet – Mainstream Curry – is what you get. This was not Mainstream Curry.
In Bradford they heavily use Methi, what Herbs are you using – Hector was fishing. The secret remained, he was not for revealing how he had achieved this creation. Herbs were not prominent at all in this Karahi Gosht, nor the – Clove – blast I associate with Manchester. He did relay that the quality of his Meat was a key point to that which sat before me. I had to concur.
As I reached the end of this most enjoyable Curry, I speculated as to what this would be like had the Lamb been on-the-bone. Had I read a few more lines down the Menu I would have spotted that Lamb Karahi on-the-bone is available in two sizes: £9.00 and £18.00. Hold me back.
Meanwhile, across the table…
Grilled Lamb Chops
The promised five pieces of Meat were present sitting on a bed of raw Onions. No sizzling platter then. As with our most recent visit to Akbar’s (Glasgow), the cuts bore little to resemblance to a Lamb Chop. Is – Gigot – now being used? Whatever, they appeared to be suitably cremated, and none were coming in Hector’s direction. I’ll remember this. Just to rub it in, the chop bones were arranged on my plate.
Plenty Meat in the Chops, with a good covering of carbon, just how I like it. The Onions were not cremated enough, but I enjoyed some of the Salad given to us – was Marg’s verdict.
The waitress was back once again to confirm we had enjoyed our meal, she appeared to be sharing our pleasure. Having seen the intensive photography, they must have realised what Hector was up to.
*
The Bill
£19.50 Yorkshire prices indeed.
The Aftermath
There had to be a photo with Mein Host. He took time out from serving and answering the phone. I told him to watch out for Howard who will surely visit later in the week, and report back on Karahi Gosht on-the-bone.
Syhiba in Wakefield, and now Wicker Kebabish in Sheffield. South Yorkshire is looking good for Curry once again.
