Day #4 in Deutschland and Curry #1. After the superb quality of Curry in Athena, no way was Hector having the Euro-Mainstream in Berlin. Wait until München, and have the best Fish Curry ever encountered. Every Fish Curry ever consumed is by default, compared to the Fisch Chettinad served at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München).
As the photo at Marienplatz may have captured, this was a miserable day in terms of weather. Marg missed her favourite coffee house by minutes, the Augustiner Stammhaus was strangely deserted. Do so few people have a Vaccine Passport to permit indoor pleasures?
Marg and Hector entered Indian Mango at 18.15. Herr Battra, Mein Host, was at the doorway taking an order over the phone. I dropped my mask so that he would have a chance of recognising us. The customary warm welcome was spontaneous. On showing our Vaccine Passports he remarked:
You must have been the first to be vaccinated.
If only he knew.
The place was busy, we took one of the last remaining tables. A new Menu sat on the table, the new decor also meant that a mirror blocked the view to the open kitchen. I could not see a Chef that I recognised. As has been the case for some time, only Lamb Chettinad (€15.00) was on the Menu. I verified that – Fisch – was still available. Marg was having Fisch Chettinad too but asked for it to be less Spicy. As Chef wishes – was my instruction. Rice is inclusive. Two bottles of Sparkling Water (€3.00) and a Mango Lassi (€3.00) completed the Order. The Menu stated the Sparkling Water would be in 0.4l bottles, it was 0.5l which arrived.
The new Menu has a new standout Dish – Home-Made Mutton Curry with Bone (€15.00). One for the next trip.
There was no sign of the waiter who has worked here for years. A chap appeared to be the new partner, the original proprietor – Mr. Jolly Kunjappu – has long gone. It was he who came over to us and presented a plate with a Complimentary Starter.
Pastry or Bread? We couldn’t be sure. We noted the Carrot, Coriander and Cheese, by studying the Menu, the Starter was identified.
Hara Bhara Kebab
Spinach and homemade cheese in a fritter (€5.00).
The Paneer stood out as did the Spice. Four pieces to share, just enough to whet the appetite and ensure that we would order this again. It also gets this Starter on to the dedicated page for Indian Mango on Curry-Heute. Shame, moi?
I spotted two bowls piled high on the counter. Instantly I recognised these were for us. Once upon a time the Toppings were ornate. Once upon a time, Hector recorded the portion size was shrinking. This would be a Feast. Herr Battra brought the Curry and Rice.
I have waited over a year for this!
Finishing the Rice is always a challenge, it’s a European thing where they believe man can eat a mountain of the stuff. Whereas, in the UK Curry Cafes, one is offered more Bread, in Europe it’s always more Rice.
Fish Chettinad
Coriander was the simple Topping. I decanted enough to create a classic Curry & Rice. It was Marg who noted the Fish was Spiced on one side and was plain on the other – Masala Fish. The chunky pieces retained their integrity, no mass of Flakes here as is the Bradford norm.
Tomato and Sliced Green Chillies featured prominently in the Masala. Marg clearly had fewer Chillies, if any. The Masala, the antithesis of every other Chettinad Masala I have encountered. Chettinad does not have to be a Shorva, here is the proof, and it’s not just a matter of cosmetics, it’s all about the Flavour. Somehow, the drier version packs way more Flavour than the – Sauce – versions I have been served everywhere else.
The South Indian Smokiness hit hard, this is what makes this Curry so distinctive. The Spice Level was fierce, Chef had not held back. Oftentimes in Europe, Vindaloo is served – mild – despite menus warning – Scharf! This would test the Hector’s resilience. This Fish Curry tasted – fishy – something I can never take for granted. The Seasoning was therefore at an appropriate level.
Marg’s Masala appeared to glisten, more Tomato, relatively. On studying the finely chopped Red Onions, – caramelised – was agreed.
The sauce is like a marmalade, full of flavour – observed Marg who was thoroughly enjoying her Curry also.
This was a new interpretation.
The second half of the pot was simply a bonus. The only thing better than the Fisch Chettinad at Indian Mango is more Fisch Chettinad. We had more, and how it was enjoyed. The Rice to Curry ratio was working for Hector, still way too much Rice for Marg. I ate every grain.
Herr Battra was over to ask the customary question.
How is it?
Every time I have a Fish Curry, I have to write – it’s not as good as this.
If there is a better Fish Curry than that served at Indian Mango, clearly, Hector has to be told.
Complimentary Desserts were brought, Rice Noodles in a Fruity Syrup. I considered not having it, why kill the joyous sensations on the palate?
Behind the counter, a chap was waving with a beaming smile. The Chef! Hidden throughout by the new screen, he must have been told who he was cooking for. He took his bow.
The Bill
€35.00 (£28.81) I could now verify the Fisch Chettinad was €13.00. This is €2.00 less than the Lamb equivalent. Why do we pay more for Fish Curry in the UK?
The Aftermath
There was only one thing to confirm:
I’ll be back tomorrow for Lamm Chettinad.