Home, home again, … much has changed in Glasgow since my last visit to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP). We have our city back after the invasion of COP26 delegates and protestors. There was also a somewhat hurried change of a billboard at Ibrox, poorly captured as Marg drove round the roundabout on Edmiston Drive.
Marg dropped me at Yadgar at 14.45, once more, there was a new chap behind the counter. He talked me through the Curry on display, Palak Gosht was the only Lamb Curry, today was not a Spinach Day for Hector. I had hoped for Karela Gosht which was announced on Saturday, alas, the hordes had already descended upon this fine establishment and cleared the lot. The Vegetable Curry had not yet reached the counter, a must, but an accompaniment to what? Had the Keema Mutter Aloo been Lamb all would have been sorted. But having decided against Chicken Keema the – Pickle – as described by my guide, looked appealing. The tiny bones protruding from the off-white Meat flashed up – Quail – in Hector’s mind. Bataeray – may be on the Yadgar Menu, however, Hector has never seen Quail here. Chicken Achari it would be. Despite the longing for a quality Tandoori Naan, a Chapatti would suffice today. A Mango Rubicon completed the Order, no sign of Sparkling Water, still.
I took my seat in the empty room opposite the fan heater. A family came in and took the window seat. The father acknowledged me – it’s cold – felt like a warm statement. He went up to the counter, moments later, the heaters under the window seats were switched on. That was a revelation, now I know where to sit throughout the coming winter.
Muneeb acknowledged me from behind the counter, it was he would bring all that followed. A Salad and a Plate of Mixed Pakora were placed on the table.
No Poppadoms – I pleaded, my wish was granted.
Mixed Pakora
Two pieces of Vegetable Pakora, just what I did not need after my share of sixty pieces courtesy of Delhi Darbar (Dumbarton) over the weekend. There’s still some left in our fridge. The remainder was the always outstanding Fish Pakora, the best served, anywhere. Or so I thought. That bit of Fish was a bit tough. Having covered the half piece in some of the delightfully hot, red Spicy Dip I hadn’t paid much attention. The next bit was equally tough, ah, Chicken Pakora. Clearly, Chicken is not as soft as Fish, nor as tasty. I finished on a high note, more Fish Pakora. I could eat this all day.
There was a gap between Starters and Mains, thankfully, time to consider the level of appetite that remained. As Muneeb brought the Achari and Chapatti I clarified my Order:
I hope the Vegetable Curry is a small portion.
This was confirmed. Muneeb was sporting his bespoke Yadgar polo-shirt. Whilst Hector would be happy to wear one of these, not in that colour, not today.
Murgh Achari
Murgh? – well it slightly conceals that in successive visits, Hector has ordered a Chicken Curry. Four Chicken drumsticks sat in a Shorva. I decanted three along with some of the Soupy Masala, I did not want to destroy the Dry Curry on the other side of the plate. How do I eat this?
I found myself scooping some of the Shorva with the Wholemeal Chapatti. The Chapatti otherwise felt superfluous. I was determined to eat at least half of it. This I would manage with little effort, the Shorva was stunning! The Flavours, – wow! – did Hector just give a – wow – to a Shorva? The Seasoning and Spice took me aback, this Shorva was rammed full of Flavour. The finely chopped Vegetable I took to be Lime Pickle, this was too soft, Aubergine? From wherever, the intensity of this Achari was something to savour. A Chicken Achari in a Shorva? This was unlike anything experienced before. The spoon was called upon, this Shorva would not be wasted.
Meanwhile on the other plate, the exterior of the Chicken suggested some absorption, not a lot. The Chicken was – Chicken – but taking in some more of the Shorva, excellent, not – wow – how could it be?
I unearthed a Cardamom of Colour, even more Flavour from there. I was definitely not in the mood for a Green one.
Vegetable Curry
This is simply not to be missed when available at Yadgar. Usually there is some variation on display. Today: Potatoes, Peas and Carrots in the mysterious, but minimal Yadgar Masala, topped with Coriander leaves and stems. As expected, the – Yadgar Taste – was there. A Dry Curry, none of this Soupy nonsense …but maybe I cannot write this any more? With a completely different set of Flavours and Texture, the right side of the plate offered a juxtaposition to the left.
Pickle to the left of me, Yadgar Taste to the right, Mmmm.
Four Romanian chaps took the window table adjacent to me. One was keen to engage.
Is it good? – he asked, having surveyed my plateful.
Presumably this was their first visit. They ordered from the display. I did suggest they order one of the Lamb Specials and share the kilo at some point in the future.
Are you a taxi driver? – I was asked.
I have been asked a few questions in my life, that was two of them.
The Bill
£10.00 An honourable price.
The Aftermath
On top of the counter was a tray of recently cooked Fish Pakora. Suppose they served this with Chips? Yadgar could become the source of the most outrageous Fish & Chips served in Glasgow.
How much for the entire tray? – a question I didn’t ask.
And so to meet up with The Man from Bradford who wanted to be here today. Having done so, I’m none the wiser as to why he wasn’t.