Reports have reached Curry-Heute that something was afoot at Sheesh Mahal (6 St. Thomas’ Rd, Bradford, BD1 2RW): no recognisable staff, shorter hours, less than excellent Curry. My recent attempts at contacting Omar have proved futile, a change of number? Six months ago, all was well, Hector Holmes was on the case.
Seven hours after my Meat Balls Spinach at Karachi, the appetite was such that the thought of – The Full Bhuna – at Sheesh Mahal was overwhelming and could lead to a waste of food. I put it to Marg that we – share – a Starter and one Main Course. Accepted. Hector the sharer?
Hector wasn’t quite last out of the Record Cafe this evening. We entered Sheesh Mahal well before midnight. New opening times were posted, essentially noon until late. So lunchtimes are back, one box ticked.
A young waiter recognised me, he showed us to a table away from the throng. The taking of our seats was dramatically postponed, a familiar face approached, however, the appearance was different. The beard, the grooming, svelte, it was Taj, Mein Host, who retired back in 2017. So no change in ownership then, tick another box. Taj had not seen Marg for some time. He recalled the day we were there when they had been broken into. I asked after Omar, – behind you. Omar hobbled across the room, a football injury, he has no luck.
Down to business, I asked if the – Fish – that he served Steve and I back in June was available.
As soon as you walked in, it was arranged. Your Fish is being cooked.
By the time we took our seats, the table was heaving with Salads and Dips, Poppadoms too. Tonight, Hector would gorge on Poppadoms. With so much to get through, it was a matter of politeness. I was already posting photos – look how much food we have, and we haven’t ordered anything yet.
I informed Omar that our plan was to share a Starter and a Main Course. The Starter was sorted, it would be Complimentary. Omar recited my Curry requirements to the bemused waiter standing beside him: Lamb, on-the-bone, Dry, Spicy, and no Peppers!
I added a Naan, when Omar serves me, it is inclusive.
We were well through the Salad and Dips when the Fish arrived I still don’t have a name for it.
Omar’s Fish
A length of Fish, it was Cod last time, matched the size of the platter. Smothered in sizzling Onions, which drew Marg’s attention, there was also some of the offending Green Vegetable. Not a problem, this was easily set aside. I took about half, Marg around half of the remainder. Marg assured me this would suffice, even before tasting, I predicted she would be back for more.
The Spice was delightful, the distinctive Flavour of a Barbecue came across powerfully. Incredibly light, this Fish was everything I remembered from June. Stunning!
Marg skewered then devoured – I’m having a bit more Fish – she declared.
I enjoyed the moment – QED.
To not have this Fish Starter would be an oversight. I seem to recall going to the Sheesh Mahal and being told by unknown staff that the Fish was not possible, yet I had this on my last visit. It must have been a dream, or perhaps a nightmare.
There was a suitable gap between Starters and Main, there was still a lot of food on the table.
The Hector-Omar Bradford Curry
Topped with Ginger Strips and Coriander and a sliver of guess what, this was the classic Bradford Curry. The Masala was Thick and Minimal, exactly what was ordered. Sucky Bones stood out.
The Naan was an oval, different. Burnt blisters in the middle where it was appreciably thinner made it look the part. The thicker edges suited Hector, the middle, Marg. I still have to find the thick Naan which my mind has become preoccupied with. With a glistening sheen, this Naan was definitely fit for purpose.
The first dip of Naan in the Masala was another moment of – expletive deleted. The herby – Bradford Taste – was there, not every Bradford Curry registers on the palate so quickly. Crucially, the Seasoning explained all. The Spice Level was moderate which suited Marg. A Curry for sharing, what an alien concept.
The Lamb was soft, Tender, and gave off so much Flavour, again, something one cannot take for granted. This was Bradford Curry at its best.
Hector, tick another box. Time for Marg’s summary:
The Fish arrived sizzling with onions and peppers. I enjoyed the texture of the Fish which was full of flavour and went back for more. The burnt onions added to the Dish, my favourite. The Lamb had a wonderful earthy taste: very tender, very rich in flavour, very enjoyable.
I was intrigued by the photos at the end. Marg had significantly fewer bones – cherry picking – the Meat!
The Bill
£9.90 Athena prices.
The Aftermath
Omar was insistent that we return tomorrow night, he has more things for us to try. Before Taj departed, he told us that he does lunchtimes. What has happened to Sadaqat?
All boxes ticked, alles ist in ordnung at Sheesh Mahal.