Visits to Delhi Darbar (151 Glasgow Rd., Dumbarton G82 1RH) could be described as occasional. This is only the fifth post in the era of Curry-Heute and only the second sit-in Curry. Pakora, my usual purchase over the last three decades, is described in two posts only. There have been many pit-stops, usually on late night returns via Dumbarton from Helensburgh where incidentally, the new branch of KoolBa (Glasgow) has yet to open. It was on one such evening last month that I chatted with Mein Host at Delhi Darbar. Whilst my mountain of Pakora was being made ready, he wondered why he had so few customers on a Friday night. As Mr. Baig of The Village (Glasgow) has observed, people are not going out. With Omicron running wild, allegedly, who knows what restrictions will unfold in the coming days/weeks?
During my wait, I perused the Menu at Delhi Darbar, Desi Lamb (£9.00) stood out. I verified that it was only available without bones. Still, I mentioned to Marg that we must try it, one doesn’t know… When Alan got in touch to suggest a chaps’ night out, here was the opperchancity. It did take some persuading, Alan was no doubt hoping for a visit to one of Curry-Heute’s – Top Rated – in Glasgow. A booking was made for 20.15.
Arriving punctually, there were about a dozen diners, once we departed, that was probably it for the night. A Saturday night in December, this cannot be sustainable. Alan was convinced that the doorway has been moved at some point in the recent past. A well known a reliable Curry Blog can prove that if so, it has not been within the last ten years.
Starters – Rice, no Starters – Bread, is what was in Hector’s mind. Alan decided to try the Vegetable Pakora (£4.30). Having studied the menu on the train down to Dumbarton East, I resolved that if a Starter was happening tonight, it would be a Prawn Puri (£5.00). Hector ordering Prawns? Hector ordering a Prawn Puri? … unheard of in the history of this blog. Usually it’s Marg who is responsible for this appearing in Curry-Heute.
Both if us would have the Desi Lamb, Alan stuck to his usual Chapatti (£1.30) and Hector a Mushroom Rice (£3.00). Being a Saturday night, some fizzy apple juice with a moderate alcohol content was required. £3.00 a pint seemed reasonable, when one of us ordered a second, the brand improved.
Complimentary Poppadoms, Spiced Onions and a Dip were presented. Alan wondered why the Poppadoms with Cumin Seeds which are prevalent across the European mainland rarely appear in the UK. Once again Hector found himself having a Poppadom, with minimal food afore, surely this would not erode the appetite?
The Starters arrived, what had we done?
Vegetable Pakora
If there’s a larger portion of Pakora served anywhere on this planet, then Hector has not been told. I counted at least a dozen pieces of Pakora,
Possibly pushing twenty – was Alan’s count.
The remaining Red Dip was called into action. We discussed if these had come from the great Cumbernauld Pakora Factory or were made on the premises. Alan found them to be smaller than the norm with a correspondingly higher ratio of batter to filling. This he did not like, – a bit stodgy – was his final observation before the white flag was raised. Seven pieces were left, one is lucky to get that many in a portion in the majority of restaurants. The abundance of raw onion puzzled.
Prawn Puri
I don’t understand the use of Red Food Dye, but that is always how this creation is presented. The Puri itself was substantial, deep-fried bread, wonderful. (I have threaten to serve Marg a deep-fried Calzone.) It was impossible to count the number of Prawns, I suspect it matched the number of pieces of Pakora.
Sweetness is the enemy, fortunately, the Red Masala did not upset the Hector palate. More Seasoning would have enhanced the experience. Whatever the workings of the brain which had led me to order this, there were no regrets at the time of eating. This was a pleasant change from the norm. A share of one Prawn Puri could have been equally satisfying.
Mein Host cleared the debris, and lit the candles for the Mains’ stands.
Your Pakora is legendary – I assured him.
Thanks – was the somewhat curt reply.
Had he remembered me from a couple of weeks back? Maybe it had been a long day.
I asked for a break, ten minutes was agreed. Indeed, Mein Host approached us once again to check we were ready. Hot plates, whose pattern reminded Alan of the early days of the Akash (Helensburgh), were brought. We miss the Akash.
The Chapatti, obviously a traditional Chapatti, was a decent size, but Alan said it could have been warmer. The Mushroom Rice came last, the container deceived, there was enough here for two. With Mushrooms and Peas mixed through the Spiced Rice, superficially, this was what the Hector seeks. Alas, the Flavours from the Spice were not powerful enough, more Seasoning would have helped.
The Mushrooms were wet, shiny, which always plants the seed of – tinned? – from which the mind rarely recovers. In terms of a Vegetable Rice, Yadgar (Glasgow) this was not.
Desi Lamb
Here is the opperchancity for Chef to show his might. Curry with a genuine taste of home, that’s why Hector was here and why Alan was willing to partake. What did we get?
Firstly, the quantity of Masala was such that this was definitely – Curry. I counted ten as I decanted the Meat, mostly large pieces, so as one must accept at Delhi Darbar, the portions are far from skimpy.
Chewy – was the first realisation on both sides of the table. I watched Alan try to half a piece of Lamb with his fork, a struggle. Only one of my ten pieces would be described as – Tender-soft. The menu states – meat marinated in a special sauce. In terms of the Lamb adding Flavour, there was little to no evidence of this. A big hitting Masala could have saved the day.
The blended Masala had a decent viscosity, this Curry was far from being – Soup. The Spice Level was – moderate – at best. Alan remarked that we hadn’t been consulted over this. I pointed out that the use of the term – Desi – across the land is associated with a higher level of Spice. The lack of Flavour in the Rice was sadly matched by that of the Masala. Alan considered this to have the taste of Curry from decades gone by, I found more than hint of what I have described oft as – The Clydebank Curry Taste. With no Whole Spices, who knows what was, and was not, in the Masala? This Curry definitely needed more … we know what’s coming next!
Seasoning it’s all about – Seasoning! There was a salt cellar on the table, Alan, who is permitted to use such devices, attempted to rescue his Curry, none came out. Who adds Salt to their dinner? His verdict:
It wasn’t red – as is his memory of Curry served at Delhi Darbar – it’s Curry, Jim, but… not seasoned or hot enough, as was the Chapatti. Had worse.
Having eaten the Meat, I knew I had to abandon the Rice. The Puri was now not the wisest of decisions. Had I eaten more, a reenactment of Mr. Creosote may have been forthcoming. The Rice and surplus Masala would go back to Clydebank.
This Curry could have been so much better. Desi? I have to ask, in what way was this a – Desi Curry? There was nothing – wrong – with this Curry. In terms of Mainstream Curry Restaurants, maybe one should not get one’s hopes up. This is what you get. Whole Spices would have added a greater depth of Flavour, as would Lamb on-the-bone, and of course – more Seasoning. Alan is also a great advocate of adding a Boiled Egg to his Curry. If I/we want all this, then we go elsewhere, which normally we do.
The Bill
£39.30 For once the food cost more than the drinks – who said that?
The Aftermath
Mein Host offered us Baileys, graciously declined. I assured him that if my wife had been here, she would have accepted. As our conversation developed he remembered me – two Pakora. I shall most certainly be back for more Pakora.