One currently chooses to go to Yadgar Kebab House (148 Calder St, Govanhill, Glasgow, G42 7QP) unannounced, at the Monday (14.00) opening time, taking a chance on what’s available in the Daily Specials. Hector & co. have only managed one indulgent sit-in, kilo-plus, of the legendary Goshat Karahi, since the start of the Covid era. That the dining room at Yadgar was closed for a year during this period, has also been responsible for the change in visiting pattern.
Shkoor, Mein Host, did the double take when Marg and Hector entered at 14.10. This was the first time we three have shared this space since June last year. On that day, Hector and Marg were invited to dine as guests. There is no shame when Shkoor treats us, has anyone else posted one hundred and thirty reviews of this venerable establishment?
I know what you’re having! – declared Shkoor, as I surveyed all on display.
What am I having? – was the response, as all I could see was a mass of Vegetable Dishes.
Karela Gosht, with some Potato-Aubergine on the side.
With one Chapatti, please.
Karela, in the early years of this Blog, Hector could not get enough Karela, the – bitter gourd. As and when, is sufficient, presently.
Marg had her customary – I’m not having Curry – thoughts as we drove across the river. Pakora and Samosas would be her usual fallback. I reminded Marg of the wonderful Yadgar – Chapli Kebab. Marg spotted the Shami Kebab, nowhere near as good IMHO, but asked for Chapli. Shkoor lifted a cover, behold. Two were ordered, and some Mango Rubicon. Sparkling Water has vanished, ah the halcyon days, of last summer.
We took the window seat, the heater below, a necessary and much appreciated addition after the recent refurbishment. Naveed arrived for the shift, good to see him back.
Shkoor joined us for a chat, the events of the last two years were prominent in the conversation. Yadgar was Takeaway only for much of this time, Shkoor appreciates that they were able to maintain their business. People having become reliant on – Delivery – was discussed. That I cannot believe I see so many cyclists delivering food around the city centre at lunchtimes, was raised. Can people not go out to their nearest butcher, baker, candlestick-maker? Shkoor mentioned those who complain that their food has cooled whilst the delivery driver/cyclist fetches their order. Then they no doubt go on social media and complain – I proffered.
Today’s chat was commensurate with those held with other restaurateurs in recent months. People appear to have become stuck in their homes when this is no longer necessary. Get out and support your local bar, cafe, restaurant, – directly, in person. They miss you!
A rather splendid Salad was presented first, a bit of everything, plus the two classic Dips. This meant that when the Chapli Kebab arrived, there was no need for further garnish.
Chapli Kebab
Chicken-based, Spicy and Earthy, is there a finer example of the genre served in Glasgow? A half-kebap came in my direction. Hector always likes to share (emoticon understood).
Marg offered a few familiar words:
They were spicy, flavoursome and went well with the yoghurt (Raita), went down well with everything.
I was finishing my last bits when the Curry arrived. The wholemeal Chapatti seemed unusually huge. I could easily have foregone this, but traditions have to be sustained.
*
Karela Gosht
With a liberal Topping of Coriander, the Lamb, cooked on-the-bone, sat in the Masala Mash. This Mash was decidedly different from the Masala which accompanies the Goshat Karahi. Prominent in the Mash were strips of what, at first glance, appeared to be Onion, but no, there were signs of the green skin. This was the abundant Karela. An acquired taste, not for everyone, anticipation was all.
I started with the Meat, not my usual approach. The immediate blast of Flavour, or the definitive – Yadgar Taste – as I have called this over the last decade, hit the palate, joy of joys. Within a nanosecond, the Bitterness of the Karela hit hard. Wow! There’s nothing else like this.
Aloo Baingan
The volume of Potato stood out. On cooking Aubergine in this manner, it must turn to mush, which itself becomes part of the Minimal Masala. Not necessarily the most visually appealing of Dishes, I wonder how many come to Yadgar in the hope of ordering Aloo Baingan? Aloo Gobi, yes, Hector included, this was something different, all part of the tapestry of the Cuisine from the Indian Subcontinent.
Shkoor believed that this was my first serving of this comparatively rare Curry. However, on consulting a well known and reliable Curry Blog, it was revealed that Hector and Marg had previously enjoyed this Eggplant & Potato Curry at the height of Lockdown. Marg’s Hockey responsibilities permitted her to cross the city boundary and fetch a huge Yadgar Takeaway on her return journey. Essential shopping!
The Potato had the correct Texture, the Aubergine, mush. The blast of Flavour took me back. Here it was again, that so distinctive Flavour, it deserves to be classed as a – Taste. Shkoor was passing by as I commenced. Once more I expressed my wonder at how such an intensity of, and distinct, Flavour can be attained without a Meat stock, but they do.
Shkoor was going out for supplies.
Ah, you’re off to buy more of the packets from which you make your Masala – I jested. Marg thought I had gone too far, but she has not been present at all of the hundred plus visits to Yadgar. Maybe I had just planted a thought. Shkoor’s response, before he retires, he should try and market that which makes a Yadgar Curry so special.
Can I come and work in the kitchen for a week please?
As he took his leave, Shkoor offered Marg – Peshwari Tea – another treat, but not for Hector who might appreciate the Cardamom, but not the milkiness.
Back at the Lamb, Tender, full of Flavour, or indeed with, – The Yadgar Taste – hanging in there. The – Bitterness – was way less than eye-watering, a counterpoint to the comparatively – Sweeter – and rounder tastes from the Masala.
When consciously eating the Aubergine, the mushiness aside, it was again the delivery of Flavour which stood out. As an accompaniment to the Potato, this was a foil ingredient in this Concept Curry.
Mouth-feel, a term borrowed from Craft Beer, is what made today’s unique combination a standout. Spice and Seasoning one could almost take for granted. A warming, roundness of pleasure, sat on the palate. Glorious, wonderful Curry.
The Peshwari Tea arrived at the very end.
Hot, creamy, with Pistachio Nuts, lovely tastes – Marg relayed.
The Bill
Money did change hands. If I had a Rabbi, I wouldn’t tell him how little.
The Boss said – insisted Naveed.
The Aftermath
Over the weekend, on a certain social medium, I saw a post regarding Glasgow’s top Indian restaurant. What has been written since the start of Curry-Heute maintains (paragraph two): if people want to go to the same restaurant and have the same meal every week, so be it, But don’t tell me that’s the best venue in our honoured city.
Who has actually been to every Glasgow Curry House and is therefore qualified to answer? Hector remains about three short of having achieved this. Since 2010, for Hector it remains Yadgar Kebab House.
Who remembers Akbar on Cochrane St. circa 1975?
i remember akbar on cochrane st, used to go in regularly, food was lovely, i like a madras and they were nice and spicey back then, can you remember the indian restaurant almost directly behind the akbar on ingram st ?, it was on the first floor upstairs facing glassford st.
Hector replies:
At last, some one who remembers Akbar, in addition to Curryspondent Neil. Their Curry had a distinctive flavour, unlike anything experienced before, or since. I wonder what happened to the staff? My last Curry there was @1979.
As for Ingram St., you have me there. Akbar and Noor Mahal (Shawlands) were my go to venues back in the day.