Lahori Chaska (571 Cathcart Rd., Glasgow G42 8SG), an addition to Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes, and as the name of the venue suggests, Desi Cuisine is to the fore. Mein Host would tell me they have been established for a year. Limits to movement during Covid and their former rest days, combined to make it so long for Hector to investigate. Lahori Chaska presently operates seven days a week with a noon opening time. At weekends they open at 10.00 to serve Haleem/Paya/Nehari for those who can face these – delicacies – that early in the day. I will not be rushing across the river for these any time soon.
Michael, who last appeared in Curry-Heute for – Yagdar #100 – joined Hector this afternoon. I arrived some minutes before the 15.30 rendezvous to survey the scene. What looks like a former shop unit has been revamped with tiles aplenty. The open kitchen gives way to the dining room at the rear where twenty can be sat in plenty of space. There’s also another table for four at the shop window.
I was led to the dining room and invited to take the table at the rear. Having spotted nobody else on the premises, I had to ask:
Your Chef is here to cook?
This was verified, I was invited to come up to the counter to order when ready. All was well.
The laminated menu was on the table. Having seen a large karahi in another source, I was hoping to share the kilo of a Desi Karahi. Alas, this was not on the menu. Instead, a choice of two: Lahori Lamb Karahi and Lahori Charsi Karahi.
At £17.99 a portion, appreciably more than the Chicken (£10.99), the half kilo was assumed, and soon verified. To my knowledge, £35.98 is the most expensive kilo of Karahi Gosht in the city, surpassing The Village (£34.95).
Michael was happy to follow my lead and would replicate my Order. Firstly, I had to establish the difference between the two Karahi. One has Yoghurt, the other does not and is more tangy. I asked for the Yoghurt version which adds that extra bit of mystery to the Masala. Decisions, decisions, foregoing the – Charsi – or Afghani Cuisine also goes against the grain. There was no mention of bones, a half kilo of Boneless Karahi would be real challenge. An above medium Spice Level was agreed.
Plain Paratha (£1.99) and cans of Mango Rubicon (£1.49) completed the Order. It was 15.40, as Michael said, hopefully the meal would not come too quickly. It was 16.05 when the food was served. In the meantime, another chap had taken a seat and ordered Soup and a Curry whose style I could not establish.
When not in in Blighty, Michael can oft be found in Turkey. I asked for an update about their Cuisine. Surely they have more than the ubiquitous – Grill – which sadly is taking over in Hellas/Greece? One of Michael’s favourite Turkish Dishes – Trotters in a Shorba – he has found in worker’s cafes. I pointed to the menu, – Paya, they serve that here. Shorba/Shorva, a soup by definition. The similarities in the language of food spreads from the Middle East to the Indian Subcontinent. I feel an Afghani Karahi coming soon, Namkeen or otherwise.
The Wholemeal Paratha were huge. Layered, flaky and featured – the spiral. A bit greasy initially, the butteriness calmed down. Close to being the Perfect Paratha, the volume would become an issue around the halfway point. This Paratha was too good not to eat.
Lahori Lamb Karahi
Let the size of the karahi not mislead. This karahi was filled with Meat and an appropriate quantity of Masala. There was relief when my fork hit a bone. I would manage all that lay before me.
Hot food is always a plus, this was sizzling. The peripheral Oil was collecting around the edge of the karahi, the Masala was certainly Tomato-rich if not Tomato-based. This was a classic Karahi Gosht.
The Coriander and Ginger Toppings were a bit stingy, more foliage please. With sliced Green Chillies stirred in, the Spice Level was as asked for. The Seasoning was a tad below – how Hector likes it. In terms of Flavour, this Karahi approached the monotone. It had Flavour, and it’s frustrating when this self-declared Curry Guru cannot identify it. Tomato may have been that which dominated. The full roundness of Flavour I described in Monday’s Karela Gosht at Yadgar was decidedly lacking.
One Sucky Bone, a few other cuts also, the quantity of Meat was manageable, my first half kilo of 2022. The Lamb varied in quality, Tender to down right – chewy. In terms of giving or taking Flavour from the Masala, this Meat was closer to the latter.
So what did we have here? This was a worthy Desi Karahi, but well short of giving the – Wow! Where was the rich, mellow Flavour attained by adding Yoghurt? This Karahi definitely had more of a – tang.
Mein Host appeared mid-room accompanied by the Chef, his father, I would ascertain later. Moments like this make a meal memorable, that personal touch which some venues never present. Both were keen to hear our verdicts.
Your Karahi is good and your Paratha is excellent – satisfied them both.
Despite not having introduced Curry-Heute, I took the opperchancity to ask for a photo of Chef.
Once more, a memorable moment.
Michael was first finished, his karahi wiped clean, his words:
Excellent, just the right spice level.
Later, as we headed west, Michael qualified his statement. This was in comparison to Mainstream Curry, Madras, Vindaloo, etc.
How had I eaten all the Paratha, bar a scrap, and all this Karahi Gosht? Nay breakfast!
The Bill
£21.50 each.
The Aftermath
Finally I introduced the Curry-Heute website. I was thanked for having crossed the city to visit Lahori Chaska. When it was established that we are near neighbours I suddenly felt the feeling of deja vu. I have had this conversation before. But where, when, and with whom?
The window had a flashing advert:
For sale – only business, not property.
What this is all about?
I didn’t ask.
To be continued…
Update – March 2023
Lahori Chaska has gone, meanwhile, down the road, Shahi Mahal has appeared.
2022 Menu
