I’ll start with the positive: after a three month Omicron induced hiatus, Hector and Marg are back in Deutschland! This trip is a replica of that booked for last December when the plan was to do the best of the Weihnachtsmärkten in both Köln and Berlin. OK, we’re too late for the markets, but it is warmer and the days are visibly longer. Hopefully, this December we’ll be back, and maybe a budget airline might offer a direct Scotland to Köln flight? Eurowings? Aye right.
This is Marg’s first trip to Köln since the infamous day the volcano erupted in Iceland. Ironically we did fly that day, from Köln to München. What became of Air Berlin? The middle of April, 2010, when Curry-Heute was in its infancy.
Indian Curry Basmati House has featured prominently in Curry-Heute to date, they hardly need more promotion from Hector. At the end of 2017, I discovered a new Pretender to being best Curry House in Köln: Royal Punjab (Venloer Str. 4, 50672 Köln, Deutschland). An impressive Fish Curry was followed four weeks later by a not so wonderful German-style Creamy Lamm Methi. However, having taken Steve and Dr. Stan there for the Lunchtime Buffet, the efficacy of the Fayre was established.
Marg and I arrived at Friesenplatz at 14.00, Royal Punjab lies a few metres to the west. Thirteen other diners were already present this Sunday lunchtime. Mein Host was dealing with a large group sat at the window. We took a table in the middle of the room, our Vaccine Passports were at the ready. Back in November, Deutschland was – 2G – two vaccines, or no entry to bars/restaurants. Now it’s – 3G.
Marg was not having Curry-Heute, not even the presence of Keema on the menu could persuade her. Spaghetti Carbonara would be acquired later. At Royal Punjab, Indischer Tee (€2.90) would suffice. For my drink, a 0.3l glass of Lime Wasser (€3.90) got my attention. Having done my sums, a 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water was ordered. Today in Köln, Water is cheaper than Bier, Cola is not.
Down to business. With my usual caveats in place, the choices were restricted. So it goes. Lamm Achari (€13.90) would be the Curry-Heute. As is the custom in many Deutsche Restaurants, the price included Basmati, here it was a choice of Basmati Rice or Butter Naan. It quickly became apparent that Mein Host’s English was far superior to Hector’s Deutsch, but still, – Scharf – was agreed, as was – Reis.
Scharf, in Polska they take this seriously. In Deutschland, the vast majority of Curry Houses are reluctant to serve Curry at any level which could be interpreted as – Spicy.
The indigenous population cannot handle it – I have been told oft.
Marg’s Tea was everything I try to avoid.
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot – a la Picard, for Hector. Milk in Tea, yeuch!
Hot, with spicy flavours, and a refreshing alternative to food – Marg related afterwards.
A stand for the karahi, complete with lit candle, preceded the arrival of the Curry. The mound of Basmati was classic European Curry House. Why so much, who can eat all this? At least today I would not be offered – more Rice? There was a hint of Cumin Seeds mixed through the Rice.
Lamm Achari
A tiny sprinkling of Coriander sat atop the Masala, plus more generous Ginger Strips. The Oil was separating in the karahi, a feature of many a decent Curry enjoyed back in Blighty. Having taken – enough Rice – I decanted the Meat and about half of the Masala. Curry Leaves revealed themselves in the mash, Tomato Seeds were prominent throughout. The Meat was easily into double figures, the Masala was suitably thick. Shorva – this was not! The colour was a comforting light brown, not – Red – as someone claimed to observe on a certain social medium.
The first mouthful of any Curry at a new venue is always one of great hope. Being my third visit to Royal Punjab, expectations were high. I was not prepared for the first blast of Flavour. South Indian – Smoked Red Chilli – hit the palate first. This was a huge surprise, the Pickle followed immediately thereafter. Two – Big Blasts – I was already making the noise which Marg has come to recognise as – this Curry has something special, the – Wow! – is here.
The Spice Level was indeed – Scharf – but not crazy. The Seasoning? It could not have been pitched better. For some, this Curry may have been too Salty, however, this was the level of Seasoning all but Creamy Curry should possess.
I bit into some Lime Pickle, another moment that took me aback. Every so often another blast of Smoked Chilli. This Curry was truly magnificent. All boxes were being ticked, and more. Let’s not overlook the Meat, it was Tender-Soft, large pieces, plenty, and the Lamm was giving back Spice & Flavour.
I poured the remaining Masala over the Rice and final pieces of Lamb. Mein Host approached:
Geschmekt?
I gave the reply of approval, I would keep my powder dry for a few more minutes.
Lamm Achari? This was way more than a Mainstream Lamb Achari. This was a South Indian flavoured Lamb Achari, everything about it was spot on. There is Curry in Deutschland!
The Bill
€22.70 (£19.08) I had to pay using – cash.
Royal Punjab presently only accepts card payments from German bank accounts. By the tone of the announcement, this may change.
The Aftermath
I rarely give a second Calling Card to a venue, today I was giving my third. It was an elder chap who served me back in 2017, Mein Host today was new to me. Curry-Heute was discussed, it does make more sense in Deutschland. The Lunchtime Buffet has been suspended until after the era of Koronawirus.
It was Marg who suggested the photo, such was the level of engagement.
Royal Punjab, if there’s finer Curry served in Köln, I have yet to find it.
Menu Extracts 2022