After my impressive Lamb Vindaloo, yesterday at Am Indiano, we studied the Menu at Spice Art Indian Restaurante & Bar (Praceta 25 de Abril 111, 4430-257 Vila Nova de Gaia Portugal) which is located in the shopping parade at the Camara de Gaia Metro stop. Yes it’s another Curry in Porto, except it isn’t. Gaia lies south of its more famous twin city, across the River Douro.
It is from here that the world famous fortified wine – Port – originates. Or, Buckfast’s cousin, with better advertising.
Today was our third day in Porto and we have not stumbled across a single Curry House in Porto itself, most unusual. They exist, but must be well hidden.
It was a retreat from the incessant rain when we entered Spice Art at 13.00. The lady host showed us along the narrow access to the rear of the restaurant. Here sat a solo chap at a small table which could just about accommodate two. We took a window table, another couple were already in situ, indeed, they were still there when we departed. Spice Art has adopted the – & Bar – classification which is widespread across Europe. Do people actually go to Curry Houses just to drink?
The menu was on the table, Marg’s attention was drawn to the – Special Lunch Menu – but was soon informed that, today being Saturday, this was not available. Consequently it was back to Pakora, this time Fish Pakora (€5.00), or Pasteis de Peixe, as the locals may call it. Salada (€4.00 ) would accompany. What happened to her usual Samosas, which we learned today are a Portuguese creation.
At Spice Art, the Mains are listed, one then chooses the protein. Fish Kadai Masala (€10.00) was cheaper than its Borrego/Lamb equivalent. Again, why is Fish Curry typically cheaper than Meat in mainland Europe, but not in the UK? Hector was not going to pass on the opperchancity to have Fish Karahi, but the usual conversation would have to be had.
Dropping the unnecessary – Capsicum – was agreed. Then it was a matter of Spice Level. My pitch for – medium – rebounded as – European or Indian medium? Now we’re talking, a European Curry House which recognises the gross wimpishness on their doorstep.
Which Fish? That Fish!
The menu offered a choice of Fish. Bacalhu/Cod lost to Pangasius which our hostess assured me was an Indian White Fish. The rest of us may know it as Basa/Catfish.
A large (0.75ml) bottle of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order. Sparkling Water appears to be available at competitive prices in Portugal. Look at what newsagents are charging for half litre bottles back in Blighty.
Other diners joined us in the rear of the restaurant, plus a table at the front. Venturing downstairs revealed another dining room adjacent to the facilities.
The view from our window should have been a Douro vista, today, mist and rain.
Toasted Poppadoms and three Dips were brought. I had to mention that the Poppadoms with Cumin Seeds are a rarity in the UK.
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Marg took the Riaita and Mango, for Hector, the Lime Pickle had to be savoured. Quite a blast, I feel another Achari coming on soon.
As requested, all the food arrived together. As is the custom, I’ll deal with Marg’s – Starters – first.
Fish Pakora – Pasteis de Peixe
Six large pieces of fresh looking Fish in batter sat atop two slices of Cucumber. A light Herb sprinkling, presumably Coriander completed the garnish. What this Fish was, remains an unknown. Marg assured me that there was a – good saltiness in the batter. Seasoning here of course is crucial. For once, there was no reference to the Spice, it must have been well within acceptable parameters, for Marg.
The Salad impressed also. The sliced Black Olives added a nice touch.
A good mixture – stated Marg – finely chopped, easy to eat. I added the Mango and Mint (Raita), could have been dry otherwise.
The Curry is why we were here, across the table, Hector was embarking on something completely different.
The Mushroom Rice was a colourful array. The texture of the sliced Mushrooms gave the impression of having come from a tin. Fresh Mushrooms are always preferred, tinned I regard as little more than – Ballast. The Quantity was more than I would manage, Marg took up some of the remainder, there would be no waste.
Fish Kadai Masala
Fish Kadai? This was but a large bowl of Curry. I cannot see how the Creamy Mass which sat before me could be classed as a – Kadai/Karahi. The Masala bore no resemblance to that which which would constitute a – Kadai/Karahi. At least I hadn’t been given a stir fry with big bits of Capsicum, my worst fear. I’ll start again.
Fish Curry
A mere sprinkling of Coriander topped the blended Masala. The Masala was viscous, a decent texture, the Creaminess is something I prefer to avoid. Finely chopped Onions and traces of Tomato were mixed through. There was no evidence of a Masala Mash ever having been achieved. As I decanted the Basa, I counted enough pieces of Fish to satisfy. This was a decent plateful of Curry.
Coconut! – was my first exclamation. From where had this originated? Coconut was not a listed ingredient in the Kadai Masala description. I tried the Rice, nope. This remains a mystery. Creamy, with a Peppery kick – was my next experience. The Seasoning was low, however, the creaminess was taking this Curry in a different direction. However, how many times have I written about Fish Curry lacking in Seasoning. The Mushrooms unexpectedly began to play an important part in the overall enjoyment of this Curry. From here came the required Seasoning. One assumes they must have absorbed the brine in which they had been housed.
The above lines are decidedly negative, but I slowly warmed to this Curry. The Spice built towards Hector’s comfort zone. The Flavour from the Fish itself pleased, as did the Texture. The Basa retained its integrity, this was far from the Flaked Fish which prevails in Bradford. With Karahi a distant memory, I accepted that I was truly enjoying this Curry, my timing could not have been better. Our hostess came over to check all was well, followed quickly by Mein Host. I asked if he was the Chef.
Chef, owner, everything!
We chatted briefly, the Calling Card was issued. This was Arvind, or Bunty as he is also known. On mentioning that we were at AM Indiano yesterday, Arvind revealed that he had worked there for three years. Is it fair to deduce that he learned at the hands of the lady who produced such a fine Vindaloo?
We agreed that we would talk more later:
I want to learn – was Arvind’s statement in recognition of the pedigree of Curry-Heute.
I returned to the matter at hand. Enjoy, yes? I was enjoying this Curry, but I am gong to conclude with what may be another negative. There was an air of familiarity here, underlying tones of – The Big Euro Curry Taste. This I have always put down to Chefs sourcing the same tubs of paste. This cannot always be so, today’s Curry definitely had more.
The Bill
€27.00 (£22.64) A lot of food for the price.
The Aftermath
With the place now filling up despite their looming scheduled mid afternoon break, Arvind was busy in the kitchen. He did take time to come out. Arvind was rightly proud to show me his – Award – Best Indian Restaurant in Portugal (?). Who wins awards?
The other kitchen staff were summoned for the photo, it was good to note that Arvind was not taking all the glory for himself.
Menu extracts
