A day in München is only going to commence in one way, Chettinad at Indian Mango (Zweibrückenstraße 15, 80331, München). Steve, who is with Marg and Hector in Deutschland for a few days, was waiting for us. The rendezvous was 13.00. One of the Chefs saw me take the exterior photo, both Chefs therefore greeted Marg and Hector as we walked in to the surprisingly empty premises.
There was a point last night when I considered ordering both the Lamm Chettinad (€15.00) and the Fisch Chettinad (€13.00). Later in the day, I probably would have, I’ve done it before. This early, it had to be a one Curry model. Fish it would be, Marg was on board too, no messing about with snacks. Marg appreciates the wonder of the Curry served at Indian Mango. Steve opted for the Lamb Chettinad plus a Garlic Naan (€2.50). A Mango Lassi (€3.00) for Marg, and three 0.4l glasses of Sparkling Water (€3.00) completed the Order.
It was Herr Battra’s new partner who served us, he did a double take when the Fisch Chettinad was ordered, one less Spicy for Marg. I assured him, that although it’s not on the menu, Chef would do it. Herr Battra, Mein Host entered a few minutes later, the customary warm greetings were exchanged. It is five months and two days since our last visit to Indian Mango.
The familiar pungent aromas spread from the open kitchen, the Fish and the Chettinad Spices. Scraping noises were aplenty, the Chettinad as served at Indian Mango is as much a stir-fry as a Curry. Minimal Masala is always Hector’s preference, here – Minimal – is in the extreme.
Rice for three, was brought by our chap, who served each of us a modest portion. This left a mountain that would have fed six, still on the plate. Even after we had each taken the required quantity of Basmati, there was still an embarrassing amount left. It’s a European thing. For the lunchtime menu Curry, it’s half a plate of Curry, half Rice. I fail to understand why, when ordering from the Main Menu, this amount of wastage maintains. Lovely Rice, though, light and fluffy. Steve’s Garlic Naan was served halved, a dry, thick covering, but looking a bit thin, peely wally.
Fisch Chettinad
Expectations are always high. This Fish Curry is the yardstick against which all others are measured.
Coriander Leaves topped the Dark, Thick Mash. I arranged the Mass of Fish and Masala Mash on top of a decent portion of Rice. There was still plenty of Curry left in the pot. A few years back I challenged the Quantity, in recent times, the full measure has been restored.
Coriander Stems have always been a significant part of this Curry, they were abundant, as were sliced Green Chillies. The Chillies had been withheld in Marg’s Chettinad. Traces of Tomato were visible. The Onions appeared to have been caramelised, a feature remarked upon by Marg early on. The Fish was in pieces, not flakes, integrity would be maintained until the point of cutting. There was certainly enough Fish in there, however, it was impossible to count given the complex nature of the Dish. Sauce? One would be hard pushed to identify one, yet there was clearly enough moistness to the Curry.
A Big Spice and Smoky Blast hit the palate. There is nothing like it served anywhere else that I have encountered in my extensive travels. Marg’s first comment related to the – smokiness. This was a classic South Indian Curry, taken to the extreme.
The Texture of the Fish was perfect, no rubbery nonsense served here. That I had chosen Fish over Lamb today felt like the better choice. Steve wasn’t saying much whilst he ate, nor was Hector, too busy eating and taking notes.
As the palate adjusted to the Spice, so the Flavour of the Fish itself came across. Initially, I felt the Seasoning to be down a bit, but my lips had a definite Salty/Savoury feeling of satisfaction as I ate on.
The end game shows the Chettinad mixed through the Rice. It looks seriously – Dry, it works. Is this the ultimate Fish Kedgeree?
Marg:
A lovely dish, full of fresh and tasty fish, complemented with a variety of flavoured vegetables in a rich smoky stir fry.
*
Lamm Chettinad
With less Coriander on top, one can see the Meat protruding from what definitely looks more like a Masala. Maybe this Chettinad is closer to Curry? The Richness of the Masala was clear to see.
Steve:
Everything was perfect. Lovely spice flavours, and not in your face. I did like the burnt onions. A wee bit on the dry side, could have done with a bit more liquid.
Herr Battra had departed by the time we finished, farewells. He told us that the – Mango – would be served at the end.
It’s just as well Steve did not have the Fish. I was last finished by quite a bit. The Mango, in effect more Lassi, was duly served. Refreshing as this was, I was glad later when the Salty/Savoury sensation returned to my lips.
The Bill
€55.50 (£46.25) Sterling has gained a little bit this week against the Euro.
The Aftermath
It is becoming a ritual to applaud and photograph the Chefs as we depart. They are always delighted to be thanked.
München, what else is there to do here?