Hector dining in the Merchant City? It must either be by invitation, or a special occasion. Pukka Dining is not the Hector norm, however, Marg was happy to indulge the Curry Hound on a significant birthday.
Swadish (33 Ingram Street, Glasgow G1 1HA) is not a Curry House as normally referenced in Curry-Heute, but a restaurant serving Indian Cuisine. I differentiate due to the minimal number of Curry Dishes on offer. Also, the Menu is not needlessly huge.
Having studied the fayre over the last couple of years, I wondered if there would be anything suitable for me at all. Karahi Gosht, to the best of my knowledge, has never featured at Swadish. Dare I report my empirical observation that the Meat element of the Menu is more suited to the fairer sex? Lots of classic Chicken Curry, not enough Lamb. I shall back up this statement with references to evenings I have dined with a dozen plus ladies: Shahi Masala (Manchester) and Shri Bheema’s (Bridge of Don). Curry-Heute tends not recognise Chicken Dishes as proper – Curry.
Just in case, a booking was made for 14.30 this afternoon. We arrived punctually and were shown to a table in the corner, at the window. Window dressing. To be fair, the diners were well spread out around the restaurant. Marg immediately took to the ambience, cherry blossom hung like hops do in Deustche Bierhalle. At least there were no tablecloths.
The A4 Menu was on the table, I was pleased to see two Lamb Mains, Marg got her selection in first: Braised Hydrabi Lamb Korma (£15.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb beautifully braised for hours, Cloves, Cinnamon, Brown Onion Sauce. The Korma as it should be.
Two things here pleased the Hector: the Capitalisations, and that this was not a standard Creamy Korma. This left me with the Lamb Shank Rogan Josh (£18.00) – Tender Scottish Lamb Shank Braised in Bone Marrow, Cinnamon, Fennel Seeds, Cloves for hours for delicate flavours and mouth melting texture. Topped with Crispy Straw Potatoes.
In Europe, abundant Rice would be inclusive, especially at these prices. This is the Merchant City. Our usual dining model is to share a Rice and Bread. Marg’s preferred Chapatti was not on the Menu. The descriptions of the meals, and online photos confirmed the Curry here would be – Soupy. We needed Rice, but how much? We asked Sanjeev, our waiter, to describe the size of a Rice portion.
Small bowl – was the reply. So two Rice, or Long Grain Basmati Pilau (£3.00) to be precise. A 0.75l bottle of Sparkling Water (£5.50) – they’re having a laugh – completed the Order.
No Starters. Large portions for The Mains were anticipated. I must mention the Roasted Lamb Chops, an Appetiser – £17.00 – for an undeclared number. I would expect at least eight, someone do tell me how many. (For Lamb Chops in Glasgow, go to Akbar’s.)
Would you like Poppadoms? – asked Sanjeev on completion of his note-taking.
This is a game I don’t play.
On the shelf behind Marg, sat the Awards won by Swadish. Who wins Awards? I did note that the majority of the customers this afternoon were ladies. Triangulation complete re the Menu, I rest my case.
Hot plates were brought by a young lady, the food arrived moments later.
The Rice Bowls were hot, as in super-hot. Marg spooned off her required amount, I managed to tilt the contents of my bowl with the aid of the cloth napkin. Two observations: we had way more Rice than we could ever eat, and so we had needlessly missed out on ordering a Naan. This Rice was more complex than a standard Pilau.
The aroma from the Basmati was powerful, Cloves, yay! On tasting the Rice, it was apparent that this was from the same stable as the Spicy Rice whose recipe appears in Curry-Heute. I should make Spicy Rice more often, a delight that enhances any Curry. The Rice today was excellent.
Lamb Shank Rogan Josh
The ornate Toppings were commensurate with the locale. I would rather have forgone these and paid a fiver less.
Enjoy the moment, Hector, it’s your birthday treat.
Bone Marrow was the only clue given as to the base of the Shorva. Behold the Soupiness which Hector typically eschews, however, this was Curry. But which Curry?
In what way was this a Rogan Josh? The traditional wedges of Tomato were absent, as thankfully was the overdone Creaminess which has evolved in recent times. Maybe this Masala was a thick, creamy-ish Shorva?
The Meat fell off the bone – an overused cliché perhaps, but that is exactly what happened, my knife would never be used. Lamb Shank, by definition, a cheaper cut of Meat which must be slow cooked.
One prod with my fork released all of the Lamb from the bone. I carefully decanted the pieces of Meat and then the Shorva. Crucially my photo captured the Meat from the interior of the Shank, sat next to the bone itself. More on this below…
Cloves and Cinnamon, I knew what was coming, I was not disappointed. The intensity of Flavour from the Shorva was taking the palate to the south of India. One has to accept that here the Spiciness was all about the Flavours, not the heat. The Chilli content here was low, if present at all. The Seasoning was there, just, but with the blasts of Cinnamon and Cloves – from the Rice also – there was enough going on here.
Then there was the Meat. The Taste of the Lamb came across, however, as the photo shows, the Spices had not permeated the Meat through to the bone. So, for how many hours had this been – slow cooked? The interior Meat was – taking in Flavour – not giving; visit any of Glasgow’s Southside Curry Cafes to experience the opposite.
Meat and a Spicy Sauce, the definition of Curry, surely? Meat, Shorva and Rice, no diversity, the meal became monotonous. An Interesting Vegetable would have enhanced the Dish. Kerching!
Rogan Josh, really? Was this not Nihari with extra Cloves and Cinnamon?
Braised Hydrabadi Lamb Korma
Here I can use – Masala – with confidence. Far less – Soupy – the sauce had a much thicker consistency, closer to our preference. Beneath the artistic Toppings and Masala, sat large pieces of Lamb, there was clearly a sufficient portion here also. The Soupçon of Masala which crossed the table wasn’t a huge departure from my own Curry.
For the record, nobody came to check on our progress/enjoyment during the meal. Marg gave her detailed description:
Beautifully presented, with an abundance of rice, interesting flavours of Cinnamon, Clove, mixed well with the masala texture. A quantity of Lamb pieces, extremely tender, worked well with the Korma dish. No cream to be seen, a tomatoey, onion sauce, very enjoyable.
It sounds like a decent Lamb Curry then!
Whilst I attempted to finish my Rice, Marg ordered a Latte (£3.30). Sanjeev then presented non-alcoholic digestifs. Cucumber – was Marg’s take, Antiseptic – was mine. The Coffee was enjoyed.
The Bill
£47.80 We had been well fed in pleasant surroundings. It was at this time we established the name of our waiter. QED. Marg’s birthday is not until January, I can start saving.
The Aftermath
I asked Sanjeev to give the Calling Card to his boss. I assumed that this would go via the manager who must surely been made aware of the note-taking and photography at the window. We were actually outside before he acknowledged us. A chat about the philosophy of Swadish would have been appreciated. Does the owner, a Punjabi Chef, ever present Karahi Gosht?
Later, there was a cake.
This year, I didn’t have to bake my own.
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April 2022 Menu
