Istanbul, a pan-continental city, another tick on the Bucket List. On day three of five, bearings established and key sights visited, it was time for some real food. Anyone can stick Meat under a grill, cooking requires a level of skill. Last night, Hector’s familiarity with the Greek menu was applied. The Turkish Dish with a familiar looking name, had to be the local equivalent of – Giuvetsu. Meat served sizzling hot in a sauce, proper food. Marg had Lamb Chops!
Today was Hector’s first ever Curry in Turkey, a country which has been visited sporadically since 1996. With an entire metropolis to choose from, it had to be the right venue. Karachi Darbar (Cihangir, Siraselviler Cd. No:31 D:A1, 34433 Beyoglu/Istanbul, Türkiye) was selected, a Pakistani Restaurant, of course.
Marg and Hector headed off from the accommodation near Galata Tower to Taksim Square. Having not passed a single Curry House on our previous days’ wanderings, here was a cluster.
I was surprised to find such a large venue given the average size of eateries around us, there’s even an upstairs. The ground floor rear area was quite empty when we arrived at 13.45. Within ten minutes all the downstairs tables were fully occupied. It’s Friday.
A young chap brought the menu. Marg was not ready for a large meal having had breakfast. The Mix Vegetable Pakora (50TL) would suffice. The Mutton and Beef section of the menu became Hector’s focal point.
It was good to see Mutton Haleem (115TL) even though I would be giving it a wide berth. Beef Nihari (125TL)? I have only ever see in it served in Lamb, so no big bone then.
Mutton Karahi (115TL) mentioned – Spices, Tomatoes and Tender Lamb – not the Green Vegetable which must be avoided. At the foot of the page was the photo of a Curry with a suitably minimal Masala and large wedges of Capsicum. I would use this is as my key.
What is this? – I asked the waiter in full knowledge of what I was pointing at.
The Capsicum was duly identified, along with the Curry – Chicken 65.
From here I confirmed that the Mutton Karahi would not be served with the dreaded Green Mush.
No garnish – was the chap’s conclusion.
The – Karahi Gosht – was duly ordered.
Spice Level was then discussed. Above Medium – was noted:
Make me sweat some more – was well received.
The half hour walk from Galata to Taksim had indeed worked up a sweat. It’s only 24ºC!
A Butter Naan (14TL) and a Big Water (18TL) completed the Order.
At this point I’ll give a guide to the exchange rate. We’re working on approximately 20TL to the £.
The litre bottle of Water enabled rehydration. One ought to see the hideous muck that comes out of the taps in Istanbul, worse even than Nelson St. (Glasgow).
We took in the décor. The marble tiled floor was wiped twice during or stay. The stone walls were faux, polystyrene. I only managed one shot of the interior, the place was too full thereafter, no need to risk offending folk.
I hope he doesn’t bring a Chicken Karahi – I said to Marg whilst we waited. Marg assured me that she definitely heard the waiter say – Mutton Karahi – as he noted it.
The wait for the food was pleasingly long, it was being cooked. Despite having asked for the Pakora and Curry to be served together, Marg’s lunch arrived quite a bit before Hector’s, or had it?
Without a word, a different chap plonked down what lies below. Was this a Mix Veg Pakora, or something for us to nibble on whilst we waited? I looked around, the few who had arrived before us had nothing similar before them.
Mix Vegetable Pakora
I could see what I took to be strips of Potato in a freshly cooked, crispy batter. Marg declared strips of Onion. In time she identified both Vegetables. How was this Mix Vegetable? These are the standard two Vegetables in Pakora. The strips bemused, why had the Vegetables not been finely chopped? OK, Pakora as we expect it, is a British thing, probably even Scottish. The English have their – Bhaji.
The accompanying sauce was Ketchup, having established this, it was set aside. Nobody could make a Chilli Sauce, a Raita?
I took a Soupçon: Spicy and well Seasoned. Marg certainly enjoyed it:
I like it crispy, I don’t like it doughy.
Marg then went on to mention the Akash (Helensburgh, Scotland), the standard to which she compares all Pakora. Today’s Mix Vegetable Pakora certainly pleased.
Next, the hiatus.
When Hector’s food arrived at the table, an extra Curry was brought.
What’s this?
Chicken 65.
I didn’t order that.
This Curry was everything the Hector would not want. There is no photo here. Large pieces of white Chicken protruded from the reddest of Sauces, and yes, the Garnish was there. For a moment, I wondered if Marg would fall on the sword. No chance, back it went.
I have to admit partial responsibility here. Somehow, by illustrating what I did not want, that is what had come.
The Butter Naan was a sensible size. Thinner than anticipated, the neighbouring country to the west does Bread so well. Still, with suitably puffed blisters, this was fine. Every piece would be eaten.
Mutton Karahi
Large pieces of Mutton and the Coriander Topping stood out from the Thick Masala. I could see that Yoghurt had been added to the blended Masala. I was reasonably pleased with what I had been given, traces of Oil could be seen mixed through, only marginally on the periphery of the karahi as I have come to expect. I counted the Meat, eight, decent sized pieces. This was value for money.
On dipping the Naan, there was certainly a blast of pleasure, but no – wow. Perhaps a bit heavy on the – Creaminess. The Spice was there, Seasoning was not an issue. I was starting to feel a bit underwhelmed when I reevaluated the scene. This was certainly more than a Mainstream Karahi Gosht, what was I missing?
I emptied the remaining contents of the karahi onto the plate which had sat before me for some forty five minutes.
Now we’re talking, behold the classic grey-brown hue. The Masala looks stunning.
The Karahi Gosht simply hadn’t looked right. Eating with one’s eyes, possibly. Now the Oil separated, this looked more like a Desi Karahi. I also found more Meat, great value.
Is this what I have been missing by eating directly from these small karahi over the years?
The Meat varied from Tender to chewy. The taste of the Mutton came across strongly. The Meat and Masala combination was now giving out way more Flavour, Cumin could have been the standout Spice.
A sliver of bone was encountered along with something white, a piece of Offal. I am not used to having a boneless Karahi Gosht, I began to speculate as to how good today’s could have been if served – on-the-bone. I didn’t see that as an option on the menu.
As I wiped up the last traces of Masala, I felt a great sense of all round Spiciness on the palate. The efficacy of this Dish had been established. As I write, I realise the photos capture the richness of the Masala well. This was the Punjabi fayre I had hoped to source in Istanbul. My first Curry in Turkey, the standard has been set.
The Bill
197TL (£10.34)
Actually, this was my second Bill, the first still had the Chicken 65. All was explained at the counter. The Tip was more than double my usual rate. I had to accept some responsibility.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was given to the chap at the counter with the best English. He received it with enthusiasm. Someone has already acknowledged my comment on another medium. Hopefully, this review will be well received.
2022 Menu
