Edinburgh – Cilantro – By Invitation

Following the review of Bo’ness Spice back in November, Hector and Marg have been invited to visit another Curry House. My thanks once more to Scott and Julia Thornton of – Hotel PR – for making it so. Today it was Cilantro (4 Albert Pl, Edinburgh EH7 5HN), sister restaurant to Bo’ness Spice, and open only a matter of weeks. Cilantro – as anyone who has ever consulted an Indian Cookbook knows, is the Spanish/American for Coriander.

After a first ever visit to Ocean Terminal in Leith, our walk back to the northern periphery of the Capital would have us arrive early for the scheduled 17.30 appointment. A quick phone call to Cilantro, and Shami, our host for the visit, confirmed we could arrive fifteen minutes early, and that we were expected.

Introductions complete, apparently I look like a – Hector – we were given the window seat in the otherwise empty premises. Early days yet, though Shami confirmed that of the many who have stopped to read the menu posted in the window, some have returned forthwith. Passing trade is presently not helped by the ongoing tram line extension. Northbound traffic is being rerouted away from Leith Walk.

Marg enquired as to the meaning of – Cilantro. As Shami translated, so he must have realised that at home, Hector does the cooking.

Bijou and contemporary – may best describe Cilantro. I assumed the wooden wall décor to be faux until Marg pointed out, no, this was the real thing. Cilantro seats eighteen. A BYOB system is in operation.

Shami brought the menu, he stated that there are similarities to that which we had seen at Bo’ness Spice. Whilst Prawn Curry is available at Cilantro, I spotted no Fish which certainly had been enjoyed at Bo’ness Spice. I outlined our usual model of no Starters, and that we would share a Vegetable Side. By ordering the three Dishes we would cover a greater cross section of the menu. The avoidance of Soupy Curry and Capsicum was relayed also. Shami assured me that the Masala at Cilantro would have genuine substance and that I should avoid the Jalfrezie.

And so Poppadoms and Chutneys were declined, two 500ml Bottles of Sparkling Water were brought as Shami mentioned the BYOB possibility. I believe he was amused when I declared – if I’m out for Curry I’ll have Curry, when I’m out for Bier, I’ll have Bier. So it goes.

At Bo’ness, Marg had Rogon Fish, Shatkora Lamb for Hector, plus the shared Aloo Gobi Massallum. Hector’s plan was to have something different, Marg had other ideas. The description of the Shatkora Lamb (£12.95) had her won, admittedly it was Hector who ordered this at Bo’ness Spice.

Working from the back of the menu, Special Rice (£4.50) features Egg and Peas, interesting. Achari Aloo (£6.95) – Pieces of marinated potato cooked in a tantalising pickle masala, garnished with whole green chillies & fresh cilantro leaves – should add the dynamic of a truly – Interesting Vegetable. A Naan (£3.75) would complete the Order, but what was Hector to have for the main course?

Achari Gosht (£11.95) would have been a worthy choice, however, the joy of Pickle was now taken care of. From the list of – Cilantro’s Specialities – this left the Hector with either Karai Gosht (£11.95) or Sag Gosht (£11.95). With regards to the Karai Gosht, Shami confirmed that the unwelcomed – Green Peppers – could be withheld. I refrained from asking why they were there in the first place, nice Hector. Was the Sag Gosht – Masala with Herb – or – Herb with Masala? Shami’s answer tended towards the latter. Karai Gosht, above medium Spice was agreed, medium for the rest.

The inside back page of the menu points out that Cilantro is not a fast food restaurant, our wait would be appropriate. Cilantro also suggest that Takeaways should be collected rather than delivered – to maintain the highest quality and freshness. This I totally support, I cannot comprehend why people are happy to have their food delivered, and suffer the consequent delays which form the basis of the majority of online complaints.

I had time to show Shami the list of Curry Houses reviewed in Edinburgh. Today makes ten, whereas, in Glasgow, the total exceeds a hundred. Chains aside, I believe there are only three venues I have not visited in my home city. The international coverage of Curry-Heute was outlined. The mention of the wonder that is Punjabi Curry in Athena was appreciated. Shami mentioned a special arrangement to have people move from India to Hellas/Greece. Time to eat.

The Special Rice immediately impressed. Two fresh Herbs, including – Cilantro – topped the generous portion. Finely chopped Onions were in the mix also. There was clearly enough here to share. On tasting, it became apparent that the Special Rice would stand up as a Dish in its own right. The Seasoning here was spot on, more on this below.

The Naan had been quartered, this always ruins the impact that a whole Bread can create, however, it would never have fitted on the table otherwise. With a decent girth and burnt extremities, the Naan proved to be substantial, also both light and fluffy. The Naan at Bo’ness Spice was thinner and suited Marg’s preference, today’s Naan was what the Hector seeks. I think we both knew at this point that we would be embarrassed at the end of the meal, food would be left. I advise anyone visiting Cilantro not to overdo the Rice and Bread order.

Karai Gosht

Hector the Herbalist is concluding that the second Herb present today was – Watercress. This formed part of the toppings along with Ginger Strips and copious sliced Green Chillies. The toppings were abundant, for a brief moment – Manchester Curry – came to mind, we had – foliage!

Beneath, lay a suitably Thick Masala, the quality was self evident. Normally one would eat a Karahi Gosht with Bread, possibly straight from the actual karahi. Today there was Rice, decanting was mandatory. I counted the standard eight pieces of Meat, however, it soon became apparent how large each piece was. On eating there were further subdivisions, near endless Meat, was noted. A more than substantial portion.

With Whole Green Chillies embedded in the Masala, there was an instant – kick – before the Flavours from the Masala could be ascertained. The Seasoning was below the Hector idyll, however, this was where the Special Rice imposed its presence. From here came that little bit extra which brought out the Flavours from the Masala, now we had a Karahi Gosht!

The quality of the Lamb astonished (us both!), this was beyond Tender, super-soft. As always, praise to the Chef who can take Lamb this close, but not have it turn to pulp.

Also mixed through the Masala were sizeable pieces of Onion, but thankfully far from the dreaded Big Onion Blobs. Had I not asked for the Peppers to be withheld, I can only speculate as to what might might have been presented. The Onions were manageable.

Loadsa melt in the mouth Lamb, a sensible ratio of Masala to Meat, the foliage, all the components of a worthy Karahi Gosht. None would be left, however, this was at the expense of doing justice to the impressive Naan. Hector has his limits, and there was still the Vegetable Side to deal with.

Note, absolutely nothing – runny – on the above plate!

Achari Aloo

The two Herb topping maintained. The Masala, smothering the large pieces of Potato, at first looked similar to that of the Karahi. However, Tomatoes had been cooked through also. Add to this the finely chopped Carrots (?) which would prove to be the source of the Pickle element, and here was quite an array of Vegetables, a complex Masala. That there was such a quantity of Masala maybe took me by surprise. Bombay Potato for example would have none, Aloo Gobi appreciably less, this was a veritable Potato Curry. In recent times Curry-Heute has been celebrating the humble Potato, its versatility truly recognised. Marinated Potato – even better, the ability to absorb Flavours in the way that say, Chicken doesn’t, has been oft reported.

The palate had to adapt from the Flavours of the Karahi. On striking the Achari motherlode, here it was, the Big Pickle Blast, delightful! Marinated Potato – this was everything I had hoped for, nay, more. Good as the Karahi Gosht was, this Achari Aloo was simply bursting with Flavour. Hector loves an Achari, prior to today, always with Meat. Achari Aloo, a first, looking for this on menus in time to come should become a matter of course, especially as today, when available as a – Side. This – discovery – was certainly the highlight of the meal, for Hector at least. Marg had taken but a Soupcon, all the more coming my way.

Shatkora Lamb

Once again, the twin Herb garnish topped the blended Masala. This Masala was possibly even more viscous than those above. Normally, I would have sneaked a taste, however, having thoroughly enjoyed this creation at Bo’ness Spice, I let Marg savour the moment. This would be Marg’s first encounter of the bitter, citrus Shatkora Fruit.

As highlighted above, Marg was immediately impressed by the Tenderness of the Lamb. This was the first time that Marg has ever had a Curry with a significant – Citrus – presence. That she would go on to clear her plate says it all, but here are some more words, regardless:

A good portion of very tender lamb, complemented with the citrus rind. Full of flavour, and went well with the Special Rice.

The Naan was very soft, the Achari was a new addition for me.

Shami had been most attentive throughout our sumptuous feast. He studied our progress and accepted our apology for the Rice and Bread which had to be abandoned. Whilst Marg enjoyed a Coffee, Hector finished the Sparkling Water.

The Aftermath

My thanks to Mohammed, proprietor of both Bo’ness Spice and Cilantro, for extending invitations to review both establishments. One day I’ll get to meet Mohammad, maybe next time?