Challenges, confrontations even, are rare in Curry-Heute, that this reviewer was in full Hector mode, before a morsel had been eaten, must be a record. Welcome to Edinburgh.
This is the third consecutive Wednesday that Hector has found himself in the Capital. Two weeks ago it was tea and sandwiches with His Majesty, The Prince of Wales, his mummy didn’t show. Last Wednesday, an enjoyable Curry, by invitation, at the recently opened Cilantro. Today, somewhere new, I was surprised to note so many Curry Houses open mid afternoon in the East. It could take a few years to get round even these, my favourites have to be enjoyed again also.
Mother India Cafe (3-5 Infirmary St, Edinburgh EH1 1LT) has no apostrophe on the exterior signage, whereas Glasgow’s original Mother India’s Cafe does. However, the menu here has the apostrophe, I wish they would make up their mind.
The premises are much larger than I first took in when I checked out the location on my last visit to Kebab Mahal. A double unit, Mother India Cafe is even larger than the Glasgow counterpart. Arriving at 14.20, I was led past some thirty odd diners to a small table in the far corner at the window. Hector, window dressing once again. Two large family groups were present, the majority of the clientele had their roots in the Indian Subcontinent. The couple who sat at the adjacent table were thus, but with US/Canadian accents. Edinburgh in the summertime.
The waitress brought the lunchtime and main menu. Neither a Starter or the Ice Cream was of interest. Hector, when faced with Tapas, adopts a two Curry model with Bread. A 330ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.25) was ordered. Expensive Water.
I set about the photographic ritual, recording the parts of the menu which were of interest. With a particularly bright sun at my back, and an alternative camera in play today, I couldn’t actually see much of what I was taking. Thankfully, all turned out to a level of satisfaction.
Machi Masala (£8.95) was a given. This must appear in at least eighteen of the nineteen reviews of the Glasgow Branch.
Machi Masala, the best Fish Curry served in Glasgow? Who says? Hector!
I hold this Curry to be sacred.
Lamb Karahi (£8.25), I had to ask. Sometimes in Glasgow’s Mother India’s Cafe, withholding the unnecessary Capsicum Ballast has been possible, it appears to have depended on the person serving. The description of today’s version had me worried already:
Lamb cooked in a rich pepper sauce.
This use of – pepper – implies Capsicum, not – Peppercorn. Maybe this is the defining criterion which distinguishes an Authentic Karahi from the Mainstream? Last week at Cilantro, the Capsicum was blended in. As agreed, no wedges were presented. If I don’t see it, I don’t know it’s there. Lamb Saag (£7.95) would be the fallback, a Paratha (£3.25) completing the Order.
I asked the waitress the Big Question, the reply took me back to Visit #2 of #3 at Masala Twist (Helensburgh) – The Capsicum was already in the Karahi. A venue whose base Masala is centrally cooked and sent out to the various outlets. No flexibility, no invention, possible. Was that the case here – I pondered.
It shouldn’t be there at all – was my sharp reply.
I was then reminded that here, it’s a – pepper based sauce.
Hector’s buttons had just been pressed.
Authentic Karahi is not made from Peppers, it’s a Tomato-based Masala – I informed her. (Onions too are standard).
I could show you a hundred recipes on YouTube, Peppers are not part of an Authentic Karahi.
(OK, it could take me a while to prove this, more below.)
Cue the Manager, the conversation basically repeated, both sides adamant. I was offered a Lamb Bhuna, which I note was not on the menu. I resorted to my fallback Saag. For those who follow this Blog, today, I was not craving Spinach.
The room I was in emptied somewhat, save the family group along the opposite wall. The wait was appropriate.
The Paratha ticked most of Curry-Heute’s boxes: served whole, layers, flaky, the spiral. Seemingly a near perfect Paratha, however, it did turn to crisp as it cooled. I couldn’t help but think about the beautifully soft Malabar (white) Paratha as served at Tanjore – South Indian Restaurant along the road. I managed most before the appetite was almost sated, and the crispiness meant diminishing returns.
Machi Masala
The bright orange colour has become a feature of the Glasgow version in recent times, and here it was. If one goes back to 2010 and the beginnings of Curry-Heute, this Curry had a much browner Masala.
Four large pieces of Fish sat in the Orange Masala which contained finely chopped Onions. Blend, then add the chopped Onions? The Spice was decidedly – medium – the Seasoning was enough, just, to let me know this was a Fish Curry. Therefore there was no Big Blast of Flavour. The slight Tanginess was well short of the full on Citrus which marks the Glasgow version.
Wonderful Fish Curry is hard to find, this was enjoyable. Whether it’s the best Fish Curry served in Edinburgh, I know not, however, Mother India’s Cafe (Glasgow) deserves its accolade. Well, I would say that.
Lamb Saag
The pot was commensurate with a Tapas portion, what came out astonished. The Dark Masala was separating as the Oil does in my beloved Karahi. But this was not Oil, it looked more watery. A sprig of Fresh Spinach sat atop. I decided to empty the pot on to the plate such that I could stir the Masala once more.
Saag v Palak, are the terms truly interchangeable? As has been written oft, when ordering Palak Gosht, Hector hopes for Masala with Herbs, not a mash of green and nothing recognisable as a sauce. This Herby Masala was decidedly – Soupy, something one tries to avoid. I counted the Meat to six, however, two pieces of Lamb were enormous. These would not be halved but – thirded – taking the portion up to double figures. For a Tapas portion, this was impressive. Thirded – never used that before.
The Lamb was such a disappointment. Once the pieces were opened up, the pinkness was to the fore, absorption of Masala and Flavour had basically not occurred. Bland Meat.
I am used to the intensity of Flavour in a Palak Gosht as served, say at Yadgar (Glasgow), where five types of leaves are used to make the mash. I am also able to recall the Flavours of certain venues, ah the Kofta Palak served once upon a time at Cafe Salma (Glasgow). Today’s lacked a depth of Flavour. At times the Flavour was on the edge of being unpleasant. Thankfully it was far from the antiseptic taste I have encountered at some venues. Antiseptic? There’s a search facility top right on this page. Today’s I could eat, not the worst, far from being the best.
Enjoyment?
Both the waitress and the Manager had come to check on my progress, brave. I wasn’t for reciting this analysis of the Fayre, that’s why Curry-Heute exists. I made suitably positive noises. As should be apparent, if it’s Curry, I want it, enjoyment is therefore a given. The Glasgow Branch is way better.
The Bill
£23.40 It quickly mounts up.
I note there is a 10% surcharge for groups of five or more. Don’t start me on that. Why penalise diners for bringing more business, especially when there are dozens of venues to choose from? Two family groups today…
The Aftermath
The Manager was keen to continue our conversation, moments like this I love. I immediately gave the Calling Card such that he would become aware of what was unfolding.
He mentioned the regional variations of cooking in India, licence therefore for Chefs to use any ingredients they choose. I refrained from telling him I had been to India, let him continue. When he mentioned the Mughlai (Moghuls) here was the opperchancity to mention the Namkeen (White) Karahi (illustrated), made from Meat (Mutton/Goat), Salt and Pepper, nothing – red – and absolutely no – Capsicum. He hadn’t heard of it. So it goes.
Move on.
I had to ask the burning question – was the base Masala shipped through from Glasgow? This was denied, however, he did use the term – franchise. Is that not how – franchises – operate, central suppliers etc?
Regional variations? Indeed, the East of Scotland is a regional variation.
Akbar’s (Glasgow) aside, Hector tends to avoid chains. And no way shall I ever set foot in Akbar’s mother shop in Bradford. In Bradford there’s surely better, however, if one desires a Bradford Curry in Glasgow, it has to be Akbar’s.
I believe all parties showed grace on my departure. Fear not, there are other venues still to be explored in Edinburgh, and as written above, I have my favourites already.
A Brief History of Spice and Capsicum
On my first trip to Portugal (Madeira, 2017) I had a Portuguese Dish which featured Pork and Potatoes in a Wine-rich Sauce, I realised this must have been the origins of 
Vindaloo (traditionally a Pork Curry). A bit of research that day, and Vasco da Gama became my hero.
The fifteenth-sixteenth centuries expansion of the Ottoman Empire to the west, coincided with the invasion to the east, by the aforementioned Moghuls from Persia (Iran). The Spices for which Europeans had acquired a taste since the days of Marco Polo were cut off. The Spices: Cinnamon, Cloves, Nutmeg, Ginger and Pepper, i.e., Peppercorns. The latter were abundant in Malabar, southern India.
Before the sixteenth century, there were no Chillies/Capsicum in Asia, and so Vasco da Gama sailed east to Malabar with shiploads of these, and the other glorious Vegetable also sourced from The Americas, Aloo, the Potato. Vasco da Gama returned to Europe with Peppercorns, sorted. Amerigo who? (1492 : Conquest of Paradise)
The Moghuls therefore had no Chillies/Capsicum when they arrived in India bringing their Karahi cooking with them. Green Chillies now appear in recipes for Namkeen Karahi, Capsicum does not! I even asked Marg to do a Google search for Karahi recipes this evening, her devices are not full of Spice/Curry cookies, she found no mention of Capsicum in any recipe! QED.
Whilst I’m on this subject, the following Curry Houses serve authentic Karahi Gosht, Capsicum has never been an issue, because it plays no part in this Curry.
Edinburgh – Rustom Restaurant, Desi Pakwan. (David P, you should have found DP when on Leith Walk!)
Glasgow – Yadgar, Karahi Palace, Ambala, DumPukht Lahori.
Manchester – Lahori Badsha.
Huddersfield – Lahori Taste.
Wakefield – Syhiba Restaurant.
Peterborough – Lahore Tandoori Restaurant.
Sheffield – Wicker Kebabish.
Whitechapel – Lahore Kebab House, Dilpasand Restaurant.
Athens – Pak Taka Tak, Punajbi Tikka
Istanbul – Karachi Darbar, Nosh-E-Jaan
Of course if one likes Capsicum, and how did you get this far down the page? – then avoid these outstanding venues and eat – Mainstream Curry. What happened to Bradford? They have their very own – Methi Gosht.
Mother India Cafe – Menu extracts
