Yesterday was Ferragosto, August 15, the date when many businesses are closed in both Hellas and Italia. Yes, it is the height of the tourist season. Last night, Marg and Hector stumbled upon Asian Restaurant & Pizzeria – Cucina Indiana (Piazzale Enrico Dunant 67, 00152 Roma RM, Italia). This Curry Cafe, at the south western extremity of Trastevere, is down a ramp, out of sight, and is certainly not a Curry House that had shown up on any prior research.
In we went, to check the place out. A large group of Asians occupied most of the main dining area, a private party? Apparently not, but this is evidently where the – Indians – eat in Roma. A young chap was keen to engage us, the Cuisine of Kerala is served here, we were informed. Chettinad? – I asked. There was a smile, recognising my knowledge of this South Indian Curry, but not on the menu. It was established that Asian Restaurant is open all day, every day. We promised to return, more Pasta was the plan for the evening. Spaghetti four nights in a row, I kid you not.
Marg and Hector have left Athena and are in Roma, en route to? Today we made an excursion to Villa Adriana, the very same Hadrian who required a wall isolating Scotland from the rest of – civilisation. I assume this made the rest of the World feel safe. Bus H took us from Roma Termini to the southern end of 
Trastevere. The tram line to Trastevere is closed, dug up in parts, I can find no more information on this. We arrived at a near empty Asian Restaurant at 17.10. Two Indian nuns were getting tore in to their feast, not one piece of cutlery was being utilised. Their photo I couldn’t take, however, here’s a photo of a charming Filipino nun we met en route to Villa Adriana. This must be a first ever mention of nuns in Curry-Heute:
Drink! Feck! Arse! Girls! – Nuns!
Having been given the pictorial Takeaway menu last night, I already had an idea of what I sought today. The Mutton Curry (€6.00) looked serious, the Parotta (€1.00) appeared to be the much sought after white – Malabar Paratha. Marg would take a leaf out of Hector’s book and order the Fish Curry (€5.00). At these prices, a Veg. Biryani (€5.00) seemed better than ordering – White Rice. Finally, 1.5l bottles of Coke/Fanta/Sprite were being served at €1.50. An honest price and therefore not to be passed up.
The young chap we spoke to last night had good English and was exuberant. The waiter today was decidedly formal, The Order was taken, no enquiry as to how we found ourselves in this establishment, which is certainly off the beaten path.
The nuns departed, there was even a smile in my direction.
Should the Hector be worried?
I took the photo of the end of the room where they had been sat. More customers arrived, Indian of course.
When the chap brought the food, expectation levels were raised further, this all looked wonderful. Behold the White Paratha, as served at too few venues I know of in Scotland. As ever, it was small.
The softness, was present, the subtle flakiness, excellent. I was tempted to order another immediately, we had more than enough food in front of us.
Veg. Biryani
The Vegetable Biryani was topped with a Poppadom, Marg would have this. On the edge of the plate was a spoonful of something unknown. We took plates of Rice from the mound. There was plenty to share, more, but not an excessive amount a la mainland Europe. Oh, we are in mainland Europe.
A solitary Green Chilli, Cauliflower, Courgette, Carrot, Potato and abundant Khadu were present. In time we would uncover Cinnamon Bark and Green Cardamoms. A plate of Raita was also provided – for the Biryani. Potentially a meal in its own right, the perfect accompaniment, adding a diversity of Textures to the overall meal, just the way Hector enjoys his Curry.
Mutton Curry
The Meat was piled high in the bowl, its volume meaning the brown Shorva would in no way be excessive. Shorva yes, Soupy Curry, no. On decanting, there was a further moment of joy when I realised that the Mutton was on-the-bone. This is a rarity in Europe. I arranged the Sucky Bone on the pinnacle of my assembly, surely this was going to be a memorable Curry.
The distinctive Flavour of Mutton registered, a good start. The Seasoning was there, the Spice was initially modest until I dared to eat the whole Green Chilli. This upped the level significantly. The overall Flavour came under the all embracing – earthy and distinctive.
This was something quite different from the norm. Hector-the-analyst was called into action. The Masala was too thin to have been Onion based let alone see a Tomato. Gravy – might be apposite here. Alarm bells were ringing, I’ve encountered this a few times, Thankfully, – Bisto – this was not, but what was it?
Having experimented with – Laziza – packets of mixed Spices, there is a distinctive – packet taste – that results. Today’s Curry felt as though it was partly along these lines. However, given the Whole Spices used in the Biryani, clearly Chef has access to the real thing. Maybe this was simply a South Indian Curry without the usual Coconut and associated Smokiness.
Let’s not have the analysis spoil the Curry. The Meat was beautifully Tender, separating it from the bones was completed in the time honoured fashion. The pile of bones accrued. The Mutton had absorbed the Spice, there was even the look of a Spicy coating.
There’s more. I sampled the Chutney-like stuff which accompanied the Biryani. Pickle! Oh yes! Start again. As Marg was taking care of the Raita, so I dealt with the Pickle. Mixing this in to the Shorva soaked Rice added another dimension to the Flavour of this meal.
With the Rice and Vegetables, a meal and a half. Then there was the added pleasure of wiping the Curry bowl with the Malabar Paratha. This Curry was a grand experience.
Fish Curry
This Curry was markedly different. Here was a recognisable Masala, complete with an Oily residue, therefore closer to what one expects. Nigella/Onion Seeds were mixed in along with a cooked single Green Chilli. Three large pieces of Fish sat in the Masala. The Fish was on-the-bone, at least there were no eyes staring up at Marg. Another piece of something that was not Fish was scrutinised, Ginger. Why serve Ginger in this manner, surely it should be finely chopped and mixed through the Masala?
Marg’s assembly of Curry and Rice was markedly different from my own.
Smokiness – was Marg’s first comment This is what I anticipated, a good South Indian Fish Curry taste. I wiped a bit of Paratha in the Masala, Smoky this was not. This had the classic appearance of a decent Fish Curry, but was puzzling us both. What were we tasting? In the end I gave up, let’s just say the Flavour was unique.
A different flavour – began Marg – earthy, with pieces of Fish, on-the-bone, making it fiddly to eat. I enjoyed the Vegetable Biryani with the yoghurt.
Both of us enjoyed our Curry. A return visit is certainly on the cards. With their own niche in the market, this venue should continue to do well.
The Bill
€18.50 (£15.59) Appreciably cheaper than eating Italian.
The Aftermath
I presented the Calling Card and showed the Curry-Heute website on the ever so reliable Oppo. Once again I mentioned – Chettinad. I had the feeling that this was one of those conversations where the recipient was simply smiling hoping the conversation would soon end.As we departed, so we noticed that there was a railway line running under the glass floor. Why did this create a sense of deja vu?
Ma Che Siete Venuti A Fa were showing the match from Glasgow, another big night in Europe.
Menu extracts
