Divans Darbar (1348 Maryhill Rd, Glasgow G20 9DG) took over the premises from Spice Room in the spring of 2021, towards the end of Lockdown. Curry-Heute managed to miss out on a visit to Spice Room, however, there was a visit back in 2014 when it was another – Shish Mahal.
A Friday night, and Marg and Hector find themselves dining in a Mainstream Restaurant. The Curry-Heute coverage of Glasgow may always be a handful of venues short of – complete, tonight’s visit ticked another box. More Maryhill Curry.
Raunak Raseeli India, near George’s Cross, has been reviewed twice recently. Decent Fayre is on offer there. For those wishing to splash out a bit more, the long established Killermont Polo Club lies towards the city boundary. Divans Darbar may well occupy a niche between the the two.
Arriving at 19.00, it was pleasing to find a dedicated car park round the back, this meant there was no need to park on one of Glasgow’s main radial roads. Divans Darbar is up a flight of stairs, diners beware. After a warm greeting by two staff members, we were shown to a table on the far side of the room by the chap who I would later learn to be from Romania. He was decidedly more front of house than the chap I would have guessed would be – Mein Host.
The laminated menus were on the table. Despite my protest, Marg was having Poppadoms and whatever (£3.75). There is no need for this. At least the price of a Tawa Chapati (£1.10) was not rattling Hector’s cage. A 750ml bottle of Sparkling Water (£3.75) was ordered also. For those who are interested in that sort of thing, draught Cider appeared to be on offer.
I had expected Marg to go for her favourite Keema Mutter (£9.50) plus Chapatti, not tonight. From somewhere, came the desire for Creamy Spinach, Lamb Malaidar (£10.95) became her choice. Malaidar – has only ever been mentioned once before in Curry-Heute, when Hari at Punjabi Ibrox, steered Hector away from it.
It was good to see Nihari Nalli (£11.95) featuring Lamb – on-the-bone, perhaps another day. Lamb Bhoona (£10.95) would be the fallback Curry. Chicken Chettinadu (£9.95) was on the menu, why not Lamb? I had to ask about the Lamb Karahi Bhoona (£10.95). That the dreaded Capsicum could be withheld was confirmed. However, our waiter couldn’t convince me that this would not result in an abundance of Big Onions, or the Karahi being served as a Stir Fry. Lamb Chettinadu? This was possible, no Capsicum guaranteed.
When trying out a new place, I like to check the Rice and the Naan. Veg Stir Fried Rice (£3.25) – usual caveat – plus a Garlic Coriander Naan (£3.95) completed the Order.
Three Poppadoms were presented along with a bowl containing Onion, Cucumber and a threat of Tomato. No sauce/dips. On top, was a sprinkling of what I took to be Chat Masala. As Hector was not playing this game, Marg took care of the first two Poppadoms, the third was retained to accompany her Main Course.
The well toasted Poppadoms contained Cumin Seeds, unusual in the UK. Still the Hector was not playing. The – Salad – accompaniment was decidedly – Dry. Spiced Onions and Chutney are served in the majority of venues for a reason. £3.75.
On our arrival, I was aware of three tables being occupied. Having taken our seats, the place quickly filled up. A large group of Asians entered and for the next hour, occupied the tables in the window area and beyond. I failed to notice that they were going up in small numbers to a room behind the bar. There was Buffet? Nobody had offered us Buffet, not that it would have been of any interest anyway.
I casually observed those sitting nearest, small plates were the order of the day. Never had I seen so many people, eat so little. The Hector was determined to establish what was going on here, especially when they departed en masse, who had paid?
The super-friendly waiter brought our Order moments after he brought the dinner plates. He didn’t have to warn us, we didn’t have to do the finger test. Radiation, these plates were delightfully – hot.
The Naan was exactly that which Hector seeks. Served whole, it was a size such that we would not be left wanting. With an array of burnt Blisters, the Bread had risen, thick and puffy. There was a sufficiency of fresh Coriander, the Garlic was not overdone.
Excellent, and the panhandle was mine.
With easily enough to share, Peas, Sweetcorn, Carrots, both Onion and Syboes featured in the Veg Stir Fried Rice. What I took to be large pieces of Green Chillies, turned out to be the green part of the Spring Onions. The colour of the Rice was something different. Soya Sauce? If so, then this Rice was at the wrong party. The Vegetables would add the required Diversity, I’m not convinced the Flavour from the Rice was appropriate.
Lamb Chettinadu
This too was different from what was anticipated. Chettinad does not have to be – Soupy – and this certainly was not. I took the Toppings to be Coconut with a Coriander garnish. There was no sign of the hoped for large, dried, Red Chilli which I associate with South Indian Curry, i.e. The primary source of – smokiness. Curry Leaves were unearthed, another potential source of smokiness.
I counted ten pieces of what would reveal itself to be the most Tender of Meat. The Lamb tasted suitably – meaty – but was not giving back much more.
I waited for what should have been an eruption of – Chettinad Flavour – on the palate, it wasn’t coming, and never would. Had the Coconut been toasted and the Curry Leaves dry fried, then this might have been achieved. Sadly, that was not so. I had to quickly dismiss this Curry as not being as described. This was not a Chettinad.
Start again. Despite the infused Rice offering a confusing Flavour, there was still much here to enjoy. The all important Seasoning was pitched at a decent level, the Spice Level, whilst never demanding, was noticeable. Overall, this was a pleasant Curry, there was nothing here – not to like – even though a greater intensity of Flavour was anticipated. Tender Lamb in a suitably Thick Masala is what the Hector seeks. Perhaps, one day, I’ll establish the difference between this Curry and their Bhoona.
Lamb Malaidar
Keep the Hector away, a classic example of what is eschewed. There was an almost Mushroom coloured hue to the grey/brown Soupy Masala. The level of Creaminess here was way beyond that which stopped Hector ordering Saag/Palak in Mainland Europe. That Marg was declaring her appreciation of Creamy Spinach was a revelation. For once, Hector declined even a – Soupçon.
With a solitary Chapatti, Marg would have finished all before her. With the ever so tempting Naan and a share of the Vegetable Rice, this was more than her capacity.
The Hector was somewhat bemused by Marg’s exuberance:
A very enjoyable meal, with crunchy vegetables in the rice. The lamb was very tender, in a rich creamy sauce. Very filling with naan and rice, but a wonderful experience.
The chap whom I had assumed to be Mein Host, cleared the table. Our enjoyment was expressed, Hector, of course would have more to say.
The Bill
£36.60 I deduce the Lamb Chettinadu was £11.95.
The Aftermath
It was time for the Calling Card.
Our waiter, who introduced himself as being from Romania, admitted that he was not au fait with the subtleties of the various Dishes on the menu. My observation that the Chettinad was lacking the customary – smokiness – was therefore lost on him.
On showing the list of Glasgow’s Top Rated in Curry-Heute, I believe he was taken aback by the number of visits to Karahi Palace and Yadgar. I suspect he will be visiting Yadgar soonest.
I asked if I could investigate the Buffet. Much of it had been cleared away, however, a Masala did look remarkably close to that which I had been served. Divans Darbar accepts groups by arrangement, tonight’s were up from London. Maybe that explained their sparrow-like portions.
Chef came out from the kitchen, Calling Cards for all. There was talk of inviting Hector back for – something special. Bring it on!
Menu extracts
