Travancore Restaurant (11 Holburn St., Aberdeen AB10 6BS Scotland), the second of the two new Curry Houses which have opened in Aberdeen in the era of Covid. Two days ago, the Curry at Rehmat’s Restaurant certainly impressed. Comparisons tonight were inevitable, where appropriate. Travancore is housed in what was for many years – Blue Moon – last visited in 2017, it closed in 2019.
It was Graeme who identified tonight’s venue, and arranged a table for four at 18.00. Euan would join Marg and Hector, we four have dined together previously, usually at Lahore Karahi.
Arriving punctually, Marg and Hector found Travancore to be empty. A table was allocated near the door, but away from any draught. A 2022 – Curry Awards – certificate was posted at both the door and on the bar. Who wins Awards? It was only after the meal I noted the room beyond the bar, an overflow. The layout does not appear to have been altered significantly.
As Abdullah would later inform us, Travancore is the third business to occupy these premises since Blue Moon closed. The photographic ritual was underway when our fellow diners arrived, we were fully assembled by 17.58.
Travancore, a South Indian Restaurant, Smoky Flavoured Curry was therefore Hector’s hope, expectation. Travancore Fish Curry (£13.99) featuring – king fish – was both Graeme and Hector’s choice. What is – king fish? Makes a change from – Masala Fish. Euan was going for Chicken Kurumulugu Curry (£10.49) – a Black Pepper based sauce, we shall see. Plain Rice (£2.99) was almost the accompaniment, however, the chaps opted for the more exotic Lemon Rice (£3.49).
Despite the description suggesting – stir fry – other than – Curry – Marg went for Lamb Black Pepper Fry (£10.49) with a pair of Chapattis priced at £2.49. Two things to note, the price of Bread appears to have at least stabilised in Aberdeen, £1.25 for a Chapatti approaches the norm. Is it possible that Curry-Heute has been an influence here in some way? However, I question why in the majority of UK Curry Houses, Fish is charged at a premium, whilst in Europe, Fish Curry is always less than a Meat Curry?
Marg stuck with the customary Sparkling Water, a 330ml bottle (£1.95), whilst the chaps had draught Kingfisher (£4.65). Having tagged Monsoona (Aberdeen) in my last post, I am somewhat surprised to see that £4.65 is what was being charged there for a pint, ten years ago. Then, there was apoplexy, today this feels normal, however, it’s still supermarket quality Bier.
Sanjo took the Order, the drinks arrived promptly. The wait for the Mains was not lengthy, a Mainstream Curry House by Curry-Heute’s classification, it shouldn’t take long to cook Fish or fry the pre-cooked Lamb.
The Chapattis were in the proper, traditional style, no Wholemeal Flour here. Perhaps smaller than a Glasgow equivalent, two proved to be appropriate.
*
The Lemon Rice portion covered the plate, not enough to share. The nut content may not have suited some, however, it added a diversity of texture.
The promised tanginess was a major feature of the Lemon Rice, as Graeme commented, – Lemon always goes well with Fish.
Chicken Kurumulugu Curry
Kurumulugu/Kurumulaku is, by deduction, the Black Pepper which was first traded with Vasco da Gama for Chillies, originally sourced from the Americas. Ginger Strips and Curry Leaves topped the Creamy, Nut-infused Masala with Peppery specks.
A Soupy, Creamy, Chicken Curry, not for the Hector, however, Euan was well pleased with his selection:
Very enjoyable, plenty of chicken, the Lemon Rice complemented the flavour.
*
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Travancore Fish Curry
The Smoky aroma was prominent as Sanjo placed the bowl before me. A squarish piece of Fish sat floating in the Soupy Masala, with a threat of Curry Leaves. Soupy, the antithesis of Hector’s preferred style, alas, how the Mainstream present South Indian Curry.
On arranging the Fish on the Lemon Rice, there was a moment of outrage. Four pieces of Fish, the fifth solid was a piece of cooked Tomato. How can anyone justify fourteen quid for this? This was basically insulting the diner. Welcome back to the real Aberdoom. Move on.
The first positive was the ratio of Masala to Rice, an ideal match. Unearthing a whole, dried Red Chilli ticked another of Hector’s boxes for South Indian Curry. A Chettinad variant is what was hoped for, if it has to be Soupy and Creamy, so be it.
A strategy was required, else I would have been left with Rice and Masala in minutes. I broke each piece of Fish up into four – small – pieces. I could at least pretend there was meat on the plate.
There was an immediate – kick – from the Masala, the desired Smoky Blast was also instantaneous. The Seasoning was exactly at the level which the Hector seeks. Hector was already in a forgiving mood. The Creaminess proved not to be intrusive, this Curry was all about the distinctive South Indian Flavours.
Across the table, Graeme was trying to identify – king fish. Tuna was mooted, the firm Texture certainly was commensurate with this. Fish that tasted – fishy – never to be taken for granted, another box ticked. As mentioned above, the Lemon Rice was a perfect foil for this Curry. Later we discussed if the Rice alone was responsible for our enjoyment of both this and the Chicken Curry.
Excellent Fish Curry – was my final, personal note. A pity there wasn’t more Fish. Every grain of Rice was eaten, the photo shows the Red Chilli and a Soupçon of Lamb, donated by Marg for appraisal.
On Saturday I resolved that on my next trip north, I would be heading to Rehmat’s for Fish Karahi. Rehmat’s, where Fish Curry is cheaper than Lamb, around half the price charged here, and twice as much Fish is served. The proprietor of Travancore, please be aware.
Meanwhile across the table, Graeme was celebrating the fifth piece of Fish on his plate. In the true Curry-Heute manner, Graeme was warned that as his Curry hadn’t been photographed, it couldn’t possibly taste as good as Hector’s. These are his words:
It was a medium Curry, flavoursome, a good variety of herbs and spices. (I) Liked the king fish, the Lemon Rice was exceptional.
Lamb Black Pepper Fry
Was this – Curry? On close examination, there was a Thick, Minimal Masala shrouding the Meat, that which the Hector prefers above all. There was appreciably more Lamb in Marg’s bowl than Fish on Hector’s plate. Appearance wise, this Dish was identical to a Lamb Sukka, as typically served at Bombaywalla – Indian Street Kitchen (Glasgow). Marg has watched me eat this, whilst she ate otherwise.
This is wonderful! – was uttered by the lady as she tore in to her mass of Meat, followed immediately by a Cardamom. That took her aback. Had Marg once again ordered the better Dish? Hector’s nose hovered over the Pepper Fry, Smokiness was confirmed. Last time Marg had a Smoky-flavoured Curry she failed to identify this.
Marg reflected on both the quantity and quality of her chosen Curry:
A dish brimming with dry lamb, full of flavour with a smoky aroma. A good kick, with a light fluffy Chapatti to complement the Curry.
Leaving the Soupçon to the very end proved to be a worthy strategy for Hector. Note, Marg had Meat to spare. Whilst the Texture of the Meat proved to be excellent, the blend of Spices here did not sit well on the palate after the Fish Curry. A juxtaposition, be aware, do not order this and ask for Masala to be poured over a la Chicken Tikka Masala.
With reference to – CTM – the man who is credited with its creation, Ali Ahmed Aslam passed last Monday. I wonder if people are turning up in droves at Shish Mahal (Glasgow) to pay homage.
Almost every person I have met in the last week has told me of Ali’s passing, Curryspondent Ahmed from Islamabad too! Here’s an admission: before Marks and Spencer changed the packing from a portion for two to a single portion with Rice, Chicken Tikka Masala was a treat in Hector’s House.
Sanjo cleared the table. I pointed to the empty plates:
We didn’t like it.
The Bill
£77.86 Marg says I have to mention the – After Curry Mint.
The Aftermath
The Calling Card was issued, then a discussion of South Indian Curry followed, Chettinad had a mention. Sanjo disappeared, Abdullah was now the main man. Coats were being put on, Hector would have his photos. We were then informed that Chef insisted we should have Dessert. Initially declined, Marg accepted the offer, coats came off.
Rice Pudding, served piping hot, with Nuts, Raisins and Ginger, much appreciated.
Four contented diners bade farewell, two more tables were now occupied. In terms of a comparison with Rehmat’s Punjabi cuisine, Travancore’s is also authentic, but from the opposite end of the sub-continent. Rehmat’s is way better value, but as a dining experience, Travancore is streets ahead.
2022 Menu extracts
